Dries Van Noten S/S 2014 Paris

[VogueDisciple93]

For the first time I don't like a DVN collection. Usually one of the season's highlights, this collection was a miss for me. The first section, the "folk" section I guess, looked homely and old (not in terms of ideas, but as if they were actually fished out of long forgotten trunks). The dark and rustic color palette, heavy tassels, and vintage lace made it all rather drab. The last section was a little better, but in some looks the ruffles were consuming the girls. I did enjoy the subtle activewear elements - gold bandeau top, drawstring pant, bomber jacket, sweatshirts, tanks. Also stellar outwear throughout.

 

[disco54]

After seeing the Lemaire show, this seems so pretentious and heavy handed.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

Finally, a TRULY TRULY fabulous collection of the season. I literally love everything. I love the gold.I love the embellishments. I love the ruffles, they're not too overdone. Love it, love it, love it.

 

[Phuel]

Well said Wolkfolk.

SUch a solid collection.

It's been some time since I've really liked a Dries collection. Not that there's ever been anything to not like about his particular brand of design; which is always similar, familiar and instantly personal. His is one that is distinctively casual and effortless and melds seamlessly into your existing wardrobe, and yet, still special. I think it's that earthy, instant-vintage and worldly charm that's also modern about Dries' designs that (never scream fashion) is the equivalent to comfort food. That's what's most admirable about his designs to me.

It takes a master of his craft, and one that is confident but not cocky, that can pull off shimmering gold without it looking costumey (Balmain), or tacky (Versace). Dries' slathering of shimmering gold ruffles and pleats reminds me of Helmut Lang's-- especially the swirling gold ruffles, just gentler and softer-- never a hint of pageantry, as befitting this gentleman's style. And in that sense, his golden women are all gentlewomen, without all that hard concept, and made extremely wearable. Which is another quality I admire about Dries; Everything he designs is meant to be worn by his customers. There are no runway-only pieces, gimmicky status "it" pieces, OTT-styling, or editorial-baits. Not that there's anything wrong with all those attributes, it's simply great to know a designer's capable of producing a collection that's wearable-- and so very distinct, without relying on any tricks.

For me, Dries's vision of the true gentlewomen is the most exciting and regal. And genuine.

 

[TheoG]

Stellar collection. I always exact something great.

 

[gossiping]

still beautiful not his best show but as always there are some amazing pieces! i think the ruffles at the end look a bit of a mess though

 

[fantastical]

I feel like the woman who wears his clothes has such an understated ease, she's so in control but not in a frigid way. this is beautiful.

 

[Fiercification]

I was sure that everyone would hate this collection apart from me . Whilst I do have to admit that I find some of the looks to look a little cumbersome (the 8th look and the 'bed' one on Zlata), I love that he totally surprised me and produced something equal parts romantic and modern.

Plus he's one of the only designers who I'll gladly take the Oriental trend from, because he nails it every time!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

There's a few odd looks here and and there and little too much ruffles for me but beyond that it's utterly gorgeous.

 

[mackos]

Beautiful collection, there are so many gorgeous pieces. Love the styling, makes it all look perfectly effortless and yet so intriguing.

 

[Scott]

oh my....those explosions of pleats is a surprising a delight. the collection as a whole really does have a dose of mid-90's dries mixed with the classicism we've been seeing from him in recent years.

 

[elle_gb]

I love those golds pop out, and his floral print is cooler than any print i've seen so far.

 

[adorefaith]

i almost get emotional when i see dries' collections. they just overwhelm me with their thoughtfulness and richness and beauty. my dream wardrobe would be filled with his clothes. i can't imagine a happier scene. this is remarkable...

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

Such an impressive collection. Love the materials and the design. Some of the looks looked a bit busy and harder to pull off if you're hips arent 88cm.

 

[SabrinaNicole]

Beautiful collection, looks wearable. I agree about the floral print- so cool.

 

[Bernadette]

“Strong women. Some glamour is involved.” Were that written in a job listing, who wouldn’t want in? In fact, the words are a statement of purpose from Dries Van Noten. Though spoken specifically about his spring collection, they could serve as the designer’s permanent tag line. Van Noten is a master of au courant power dressing. His clothes radiate a kind of glamour that, for all their abundant bells and whistles, telegraph a sense of comfort and psychological security.

Spring was a mélange of disparate elements brought into clear, fabulous focus. In advance of his exhibit in February at Les Arts Décoratifs, Van Noten went into its archives for 19th-century jacquards — rich, opulent florals — which he reproduced with glorious visual accuracy. He added pilings of ruffles: pleated, swirled and tightly packed. He countered the grand romance of the former and girlishness of the latter with earthy tribal weaves, and then contrasted the intense decorative nature of all three against raw, utilitarian cottons and linens. A tiny star print countered the scale of giant florals, and a barbed-wire print, their prettiness.

There were hints of the gypsy in billowing sleeves and full skirts (shades of Loulou de la Falaise) and of the choreographer Fong Leng in the structured frou. The audacious extravagance of it all might have turned decadent were Van Noten not a stalwart believer in form following function.

Here were clothes that work: the roomy jackets and pants with a hint of the Eighties; the trenchcoat over white shirt and black pants, perfectly discreet save for the flash of a dazzling gold vest; the sweaters which, whether finished in a dense thicket of artisanal fringing or with a flamboyant, ruffled swath, were merely sweaters.

It was a spectacular fusion of reality with showmanship. Strong women. Some glamour. Endless fashion.

Source: style.com

 

[Uemarasan]

Alongside Junya Watanabe, one of the only two really brilliant collections this season thus far. A wonderful reclamation of gold from the clutches of fashion. Gold is no longer an indication of status or wealth, or something attention-seeking or tacky. Instead, it's elemental here, almost organic. And so more beautiful.

 

[luckyme]

this is INCREDIBLE

shadedviewoffashion

 

[Melisande]

It really is a return to his previous softer self that I preferred. And nobody does gold like Dries. I don't like the dark florals, a bit too heavy. (Haven't liked his prints in a while). All the same, looking at his work feels like home. <3

 

[softgrey]

funny- i had not been liking dries for so long that i never even bothered to look at this...
but this is OLD school dries...

this is the kind of dries i own and like to wear...
so glad he hasn't abandoned this type of thing altogether...

it's just pirate-y enough to make me happy...
...