Favorites:
Christopher Kane
Absolutely stunning. When I first saw pictures of the collection, I loved it. This show is 100% Christopher Kane in its fusion of bad taste and intelligence. The needlepoint floral designs sewn on black matte and patent leather is so appealing and those little sweaters with false sleeves are so magnificent. But it wasn't until I saw a little video of the collection, and heard the gorgeous "This Bitter Earth" song playing did I truly understand and appreciate this collection. It added so much emotion to the show. All of a sudden these tough girl looks became so vulnerable and tragic. Stunning.
Dries van Noten
It is so satisfying to see such a realistic, yet thoughtful and considered collection. Dries has such a talent at combining desirable and easy clothes with drama, romance and soul. And the clothes weren't the only part that was perfect - stunning setting, the "Vertigo" soundtrack was magnificent, gorgeous hair and make up, perfect sunglasses...and big purses carried like clutches. Just an all around wonderful show.
Givenchy
Riccardo's best Givenchy collection in a couple of years. Tim Blanks said it best in the style.com video when he said he felt the collection benefited from the lack of Catholicism. So true. So true. When Tisci first started at Givenchy, the Catholic influence was perfect...it was tortured and poetic. Recently, though, it had become too tongue in cheek and glossy. So to see him move into a slightly different territory was refreshing and rewarding. The mix of scuba and ski was brilliant in the hands of Riccardo (and those alpine sweaters were so erotic in such a strange way!). The red, black and white lace was used perfectly, and the attention to detail was impressive - embroidered gloves and clutches, glitter red lips, ribbons tied around the model's neck and hair...all so beautiful.
Jil Sander
I love everything Raf does with the house of Jil Sander, I really do. I find his vision of minimalism so riveting. His sharp precision tailoring is awe-inspiring. And this season was perfect. Firstly, I adore the X runway and the choreography it entailed, I am obsessed with the "Lara Croft: Tomb Raider" soundtrack and the context it gave the clothes...the flat boots are magnificent, and I want a pair...I don't know...I know many thought this was one of Simon's weaker collections for Jil Sander, but I really responded to it strongly.
Honorable Mentions:
Giles - Great collection, great casting, great styling...his best collection in a long time.
Hussein Chalayan - I know its fairly commercial for Chalayan, but even when he puts on such a wearable collection, the thought and care put into is still infectious.
John Galliano - the first Galliano collection in a long time to feel REALLY Galliano. And the hair and make up is incredible.
Lanvin - Even though its nothing new from Alber for Lanvin, it's just so good that you can't really be bothered by the fact that this collection is so similar to his previous ones.
Marc Jacobs - The show felt so sincere and genuine...reminded me of his masterpiece: Fall/Winter 2006.
Louis Vuitton - So chic.
Maison Martin Margiela - I absolutely loved the fox hunt inspiration of the collection...the sharp, red coats, riding boots, and then those big Davey Crockett fur hats!
Prada/Miu Miu - Because when have I ever disliked Miuccia????