style.com
February 3, 2008 – "Taking classics and messing with them until they become fashion." It sounds easy enough, but the Gap's recent history suggests otherwise. It's well-known that the brand has been struggling to stay pertinent in a retail market that's become saturated with high-low fast-fashion labels. Enter Patrick Robinson, the man responsible for the above quote. The former Perry Ellis designer was the center of attention today at a one-hour presentation of the company’s new Fall lineup. Surrounded by reporters, he explained how he and his creative team plan to turn around the fortunes of the huge brand, one pair of jeans at a time.
"The big message in all this is about taking American sportswear and making it relevant," he said. "That translates into cutting women's jeans with a really wide leg, giving a mackintosh the right oversize proportions, and slimming down and cropping cargo pants so they're fitted." Beyond fit, it also means elevating the color palette (Fall's is long on dusty plaids and many shades of gray) and the fabric quality, and making sure down the line that the company's women's, men's, kids, maternity, and body lines all look connected.
That's a lot to bite off, but Robinson and co. made a confident start today. It was the kind of collection where editors mentally tick off all the pieces they want to add to their wardrobes. The outerwear looked particularly strong—from a boxy, boy-cut peacoat to wool flannel puffer jackets and vests to shearlings in both black and a natural tan. Pants, be they trouser-cut or cropped and cuffed, looked smart enough to carry off as designer. And there were scads of layerable knits, thin and chunky. Pierre Hardy's shoes for the brand also helped kick things up a notch.
Right now, the Gap has several points working in its favor when it comes to getting customers into its stores. The imminent recession we've all been hearing about, not to mention the ever-higher prices being asked of European imports, are keeping women from buying big-ticket items. The deciding factor, though, may be how good these clothes look.
–Nicole Phelps