It's not entirely a hit for me but it's definitely one of the best collections of this lackluster season.
I think her strength, which is women's tailoring, can be a double-edged sword. At times, the more austere it looks, the more it comes off like something Zara would churn out. But thankfully often times, it's sensual and definitely feels grown-up (God knows in the sea of juvenile offerings from Gucci, Balenciaga, and now, Prada, sophistication is a rarity nowadays).
Her take on strict silhouette is a lot more wearable than say, Karl's at Fendi but while the latter always finds a way to imbue a sense of playfulness with the aforementioned silhouette, Clare's is alternately sleek and drab. Hence a tendency to still get inconsistent. I mean, literally, this show can go either way: invigorates you or puts you to sleep.
Aside from tailoring, I'm also a fan of her other experimentations: the printed dresses and metallically pleated frocks for the finale. They provide me with two contrasting elements that she should develop more in the future, either altogether or separately: exuberance and structure.
I could care less about the menswear but appreciate some of her attempts at clashed prints and leather trousers. They don't necessarily work, but they're far from what I consider ugly.
Overall, this show signifies a path of evolvement which gets me excited to see what she has in store next.
