Givenchy F/W 2025.26 Paris

A slightly confused but still solid debut nonetheless.

I was quite perplexed by her opening look, I was not expecting the in-your-face branding from her. But I guessed nobody could escape the game so this is just how she does it. It feels like she just said yeah I put the brand on some looks, can we move on now. I can totally see they will push those boots to the max next season.
Now let's get to the real gems in this collection. The sleek tailoring is to die for. I want that black ombre coat for myself. And that look on Soo Joo, so sharp and stunning.
The styling was also leaving me puzzled. I like the backward trick, it gives the tailoring more structure and a sharper look. And the big scarves add some nice poetic touch to the collection. But the rest was quite not there yet. Camilla Nickerson could do some heavy editing to the collection.

Overall I like it. I'm eager to see more from her, and can't wait if to see her couture if they decide to open the operation again.

Literally the worst thing about this collection is those literal quotations of Givenchy.
Madame, what’s your beef with Mr. Hubert, he was such a nice man :cry::D. Just let Sarah has her references in peace, and then we can move on from it a few seasons later.
 
Disappointing.

This is fashion for people that grew up on and dress for social media. So heavy and burdensome. Whatever masterclass tailoring and precision in cut exists, is buried by annoying styling tricks, even more annoying gimmicky showpieces, and costumey on-trend silhouettes. The backward suiting in classic silhouette is impeccable, unfortunate it’s overshadowed by the played out mutton-chop sleeves that dominate instead, and the stupid Sia wigs-as-dresses. The yellow tulle monstrosity that ends the show is insufferable.
 
I think this is the right direction for Givenchy.
Then with the studio was enough… it is almost the same and even worse even. There’s no message, no image no nothing. I can’t imagine a lady wanting to buy some of this. It’s super heavy, overdesigned and super out of fashion.

The mix of tacky and couture is terrible too… the color palette super boring… Givenchy loved color, he has amazing prints, joie de vivre, Persian chic… this has nothing of that.
 
Madame, what’s your beef with Mr. Hubert, he was such a nice man :cry::D. Just let Sarah has her references in peace, and then we can move on from it a few seasons later.
Ahaha. I love Hubert. I like some of his work from the 60’s and 70’s but unfortunately in terms of design language those era from him are never exploited. It’s always about the 50’s for some reasons.
I think Riccardo really somehow exploited some few things of his work beyond that era.

I just think that the 1950’s silhouettes don’t work here. And when you look at the collection, they standout as odd. On their own they are totally fine.
 
Well, that was quite uneven. :upsidedown: Even the tailoring which is her forte was quite strong at times, and then.. then it was strong in a way that's not very flattering, because if Malgosia Bela appears bulky you kind of have a problem. Also, let's be real, opening your debut show at a prestigious French couture house with a bodysuit that looks like a lipsync outfit for Erika Jayne is a m!ss, and don't even get me started on those black half-boots most of the models wore and the fact she opted for such crude branding - not even Alexander Wang did that at Balenciaga, and if he did, he would've gotten dragged for it.
I'm starting to think the reason she stayed so long at McQueen is because while she's a good technician, her judgement regarding fabric choices for particular pieces (were those 'scarves' made out of thick black leather necessary) and silhouettes (which woman wants a wide torso from the back) seems somewhat questionable and thus maybe not optimal for the top spot at a house without many conclusive codes which you can always rely on. Still, several of the coats, some earrings and the eyewear were rather convincing, so let's hope she sticks to elegant tailoring and throws in some fluidity and embellishment for couture, because experimenting with stiff fabrics and volumes doesn't seem to be her thing.
 
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"Sarah Burton for Givenchy" was basically the only thing I was holding out any hope for in this industry, but I still managed not to get my expectations up, and thank heaven for that.

The tailoring is as strong as anticipated but the rest is confused and disappointing.

The opening look is embarrassing, it would be bad enough without the branding but come on.

The hideous scarves ... poor model #5 looks like she just tried to hang herself with a garbage bag because there was nothing else at hand. Is that crinkled leather? Because who wants the feel of animal hide wrapped around their bare neck? Horrible in the cold, even worse in heat. I'm assuming a scarf made of synthetics is out of the question at this price point, even in pursuit of some specific aesthetic goal.

In fact, excluding the structured tailored jackets, absolutely everything puffy -- whether leather or tulle or whatever, whether exploding from the neck or bulging from the arms or just blimping around as in that final urine-soaked shower curtain -- is atrocious.

The outfits made of jewels and beauty product lids (?) look like DIY projects with decent materials but little more than that. It is interesting (read: weird) that they are so embellished when everything else is so toned down compared to her McQueen.

Look #18 could have been a beautiful take on a peacoat, but the vertical pocket flaps ruin the lines for me and the sleeves look very faintly off.

If I were a consumer of expensive womenswear, I'd be looking intently at the dégradé herringbone pieces and probably trying to forget the existence of almost everything else.
 
I kinda wish she started with couture first - she has the skills there to really make a statement debut, set the tone and the standard for the house. Then the codes can be simplified, filtered, and edited down to RTW.

As it stands, it feels a bit mid for a debut, knowing that she is capable of more.

A bit of story telling wouldn’t hurt either !
 
Wonderful I had no problems with it I loved it a nice clean slate to a very old Parisian house. She has a nice place where she can build and make a whole new identity for this brand. British woman in France.
 
This was a little disappointing to me. The branding was very awkward and unnecessary. I didn't like the looks with the gathered high neckline, particularly the dress in white, it looked like a child wearing a linen napkin. The bulky suiting and daywear looked too much like Stella McCartney's, which is not good. And some of the elevated shoulders too much like Demna's Balenciaga. The Bettina sleeves (with no bodice) didn't make much sense to me, except to signal that this was Givenchy.

There are two looks i did love, the ones below. They are interesting, wearable and looked fresh. She should have built her collection around them.

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It was good enough!! Like some people said it will get media attention they needed to get people talking about the brand again. Issue I had with it was too many references to what other designers are already doing. A little bit of this and a little bit of that trying to cater to everyone!! I just think why bring in a designer like Sarah only for her to do what others are already doing?! The studio can do that easily. She has enough experience and expertise to really put a strong identifiable stamp on a collection. This could’ve been any collection we’ve already seen. It’s times like this where I appreciate the Mulier’s of the world, while he also kinda threw everything and the kitchen sink towards us but at least he had ideas and showing a fearlessness in putting them forward. Maybe I’m asking for way too much from her she’s never shown anything different but I think she will do what has to be done.
 
She should have built her collection around them.
then it would be just like her last mcqueen collection... But i think this is a burton signatture, a suit that becomes a dishevleled dress at the bottom. mixing her tailoring and draping skills

i was so confused by the leather bow scarves... but i saw it was a reference to 1952 givenchy... ok queen.. i guess
 
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