Givenchy F/W 2025.26 Paris

I think people have this idea that EVERY show has to be some spectacle with some grand vision. Luxury fashion doesn't have any obligation to entertain the masses. Does it help? Sure. But that's a marketing tool and it's not a sufficient way to judge a collection.
I don't think that's what people are asking for. Claire Waight Keller's Givenchy wasn't a spectacle, it was just good design. This collection falls flat on that front.
 
I hope it was her british humor that didnt allow her to cancel this look. How can you resist a compact dress 😭

I think the "fashin need to start conversation" someone was talking about above was anything but fashion. A real fashion conversation will appreciate all the techniques that she spoils us with in a mere rtw collection. The construction on many of these, just like her Mcqueen are already haute couture level.

one can say its ugly, not up to their taste, maybe dated but it is fashion with a capital F. I can feel that Burton is a tailoring nerd. She probably gets lost perfecting and reconstructing suits to come up with these. And her experimentation will not always result to beautiful clothes but the thought process will always be interesting.

Maybe that is her weakness, she designs with her mind and gets lost in techniques that not everyone would appreciate. Some people want the beautiful end result only regardless of how it came to that.

That compact dress obviously are not literal make up attached to a dress like they would in rupaul. Each of the compact are embroideries. But ofcourse the end look might be too literal.
 
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How is any of this fashion with capital f lol? Is the level really that low? People always use the same argument when defending her, "but the tailoring is great", "the quality is amazing". Being technically skilled doesn't equal being a good fashion designer.
 
I think this is a very very good debut. Lacks the laser focus she is known for but it's still very good. I quite like the pieces that remind me of her than Hubert's design. It's blended perfectly. Love the colors and styling as well. And thanks goodness, these clothes look well-made. Hopefully, she takes this forward and build the new Givenchy.
 
Great skills without taste nor creativity. It´s just worse than I was expecting. Those logos...what´s next, WE SHOULD ALL BE HUBERT?? The compact dress reminded me of Mary-Grace cardboard Dior Maison dress, the same level of absurdity just for the shocking value of it.

No point of view, she jumps from one look to another randomly. Mixes archives references with current designers references (why?? to make it look more "modern"??).

And the grey backwards suit was made by Galliano at Dior waaay better, back in HC s/s 1999!!

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vogue and pinterest
 
The comments about how she's a great tailor always get me, it's giving damning with faint praise.

Who else is presenting tailoring with the same level of precision as her? I didnt know everyone was doing cuts in the same level of hers.

Maybe i don't look close enough in those super modern and "in the moment" collections we have been seeing around. I have missed how everyone else is just as an amazing tailor as her.
 
Who else is presenting tailoring with the same level of precision as her? I didnt know everyone was doing cuts in the same level of hers.

Maybe i don't look close enough in those super modern and "in the moment" collections we have been seeing around. I have missed how everyone else is just as an amazing tailor as her.
Personally I think she's somewhat limited in her tailoring, hence the tendency to continually reproduce a lot of the same shapes. I think the true masters right now are probably Rei Kawakubo, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Yohji Yamamoto, and John Galliano.
 
It all looks beautifully made but there is a stiffness to it that feel unattractive. They don’t feel like clothes to be lived in. Perfect on a catwalk but for little else. It’s beautiful statues to look at but not sure if any of these clothes work beyond the show setting there’s no life or flow to them. Nothing moves naturally or organically. I’m curious if it will sell
 
Who else is presenting tailoring with the same level of precision as her? I didnt know everyone was doing cuts in the same level of hers.

Not the same level, but WAY more level: Ghesquière (even if they look bad), Galliano, Yohji, Armani, Rick Owens, Rei and I’d say even Phoebe. And of course JACQUEMUS.

And Hedi Slimane!


(okay Jacquemus was a joke)
(Hedi Slimane too)
 
The stiffness and the coldness remind me of Raf Simons collections for Dior… but way, way, way worse. At least in his Dior there was a little bit of romanticism, while here everything looks like steel and cold.

Steel and cold can’t be more out of fashion in 2025.

This somehow looks like designed by student who likes fierce and complicated designs for the sake of it… the kind of designer that draws big heads in his sketches with fierce eyes and very curved legs… screen sunglasses, big shoes… soooo amateurish.

I just don’t know who convinced Monsieur Armault to hire Sarah. I just don’t get how someone could give her a big maison. For McQueen it made sense, like VV at Chanel, but Givenchy? I love some of the Gaga songs, but what does she know about cameras? Same here… it just doesn’t fit. She’s not chic, she’s not Parisian.

I’d do something a la Alber Elbaz, with dots, maybe add some vintage accessories like the canotiers, flower prints… a little bit of tailoring, lot of cool blouses… lady like but with a modern cut and approach. Like old fashion but cool.
 
I came out of my 20 year retirement from tFS (Hi, I used to be mod here, for THIS forum) just to check the comments on this thread,
And honestly, the takes are tragic.
Comparing Sarah to Claire, comparing Sarah to Lee, comparing her to Lees debut collection for Givenchy (which was panned and he even admitted its shite -i disagree- but he said it).
Even to .. Schiaparelli? A lot of the new members REALLY need to get on with their fashion history. Fashion is not only 5 years ago.
Hubert and his label hadnt had a very clear image or code opposite most maisons. It has been punched and tucked and frankensteined creative director after creative director (Remember Julien McDonald for Givenchy?).
And to universally pan a debut collection for such a tricky house when yes, there are thngs that are less than mediocre (the logoed things) but its great tailoring and a debut collection. She is under a lot of pressure and REALLY have to WORK HARD to steer this mess of a house to a direction when it never has had one (their most succesfull and relevant era was Tiscis and there was no trace of Huberts legacy).
We need more female creative directors, we have one who has impeccable cutting and does femininity WELL EXECUTED.
A lot of you need to go out and touch grass. For real.
 
I came out of my 20 year retirement from tFS (Hi, I used to be mod here, for THIS forum) just to check the comments on this thread,
And honestly, the takes are tragic.
Comparing Sarah to Claire, comparing Sarah to Lee, comparing her to Lees debut collection for Givenchy (which was panned and he even admitted its shite -i disagree- but he said it).
Even to .. Schiaparelli? A lot of the new members REALLY need to get on with their fashion history. Fashion is not only 5 years ago.
Hubert and his label hadnt had a very clear image or code opposite most maisons. It has been punched and tucked and frankensteined creative director after creative director (Remember Julien McDonald for Givenchy?).
And to universally pan a debut collection for such a tricky house when yes, there are thngs that are less than mediocre (the logoed things) but its great tailoring and a debut collection. She is under a lot of pressure and REALLY have to WORK HARD to steer this mess of a house to a direction when it never has had one (their most succesfull and relevant era was Tiscis and there was no trace of Huberts legacy).
We need more female creative directors, we have one who has impeccable cutting and does femininity WELL EXECUTED.
A lot of you need to go out and touch grass. For real.
Dear, work hard and creative director in the same sentence? Work hard is what workers in the roads do… creating a collection for one of the biggest houses in the world should be a total joy and pleasure.

Having access to such an archive, having the freedom to create something cool… and coming with this mess… come on. Work hard is what junior designers do and I wouldn’t even say it’s working that hard tbh.

And the pressure thing? lol. As KL said, if you don’t want the pressure go to work in the public administration. She’s getting paid millions for… this. What a joke.
 

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