Givenchy F/W 2025.26 Paris

Hey, at least she didn't use her usual color palette of "Black/White/Red/Blue" like her last 10 collections at McQueen :rofl: like so many other designers this season.

I'm honestly just baffled by this, it's not retro enough yet at the same time not modern enough either. It got stuck in the middle ground of a bad 2010's collection which I guess makes sense given her McQueen was from that decade, but it appears she hasn't moved on from what someone from the past decade considers "modern and edgy".
 
What saves this collection is the clear point of view. Whether I agree with all the choices or (mostly) not, Burton has a vision. And in today's fashion landscape of endless copying and compromises, having the courage to present a clear (though imperfect) vision deserves some recognition.
 
Can you expand on this, because I can't imagine or remember these references happening.
I think what was great about Riccardo’s era was that it was never a pure quotation and even if it was, it was more evocative than anything else. Ok FW2014 may evoke Givenchy from the 70’s, SS2010 couture may evoke Givenchy from the 80’s. He may have used a sleeves from the 50’s in one collection…etc. Even his first collection had some little touches.

I think Sarah’s work at Givenchy will really shine when she won’t have to « force herself » to include « a dress inspired by the archives ». That’s what she did at McQueen. At some point McQueen was just a spirit in a way (even if her romantic tendencies didn’t convinced a lot of people).
 
I think Sarah’s work at Givenchy will really shine when she won’t have to « force herself » to include « a dress inspired by the archives ». That’s what she did at McQueen. At some point McQueen was just a spirit in a way (even if her romantic tendencies didn’t convinced a lot of people).

That's also what she said after the show: she wanted to create a foundation and, well, start somewhere with a 'proper' collection in order to be able to turn the house around later on, to make it closer to her own style.
 
cant stop thinking about the dresses with the gathered neckline and how the fold from those continued all the way down and provided the flow and movement to them. so beautiful
 
What is weird with that. I am not shallow if I say that Haider was catastrophic. Bad in every single way, like seriously bad, painfully bad for my eyes. I mean he should sit and start to sketch (and stitch). Nobody can compare with Sarah in that field. I usually give a credit where credit is due. She deserved it, he did NOT. Also as a buyer I understand fabrics and quality. So I wouldn’t compare two of them at all. Okay!
 
It's really very exquisite. Yes, it's lacking direction but I don't think she cares. Because the tailoring and the quality are so strong I don't even care. That alone makes the pieces desirable. There isn't a single piece that is ugly.
 
This just isn't good. Yes, she is an excellent tailor (apart from the horrid dress that looks like a paper bag) but that's where her strengths begin and end. There is absolutely nothing new or compelling here—nothing that makes me want to look again, question, or understand. I think she was suitable for Alexander McQueen because she respectfully continued his legacy without trying to out-Lee Lee, but the lack of creative dynamism that worked for her there is her greatest weakness at Givenchy. She's derivative, period, and I sorely miss Claire Waight Keller's Givenchy.
 
God she's so mediocre. So below average. I find Demna, Jeremy Scott to be so much better fashion designers than her. Easily.

Apart from the tedious chicanery of "house codes", references, Hupert, , etc, what is this person really proposing this season?. Because fashion has to make sense at the present moment. Well, I see a rigid, thick, bulky tailoring; looks that are so old fashion they look like costumes - Herzigova's skirt suit straight out of the ashes of ww2. gimmicky outfits like the first two, but there are more. gimmicky dresses, oh god so much of it lol some phoebe, the row too because of course.

This is dumb. It insults the intelligence of people. But fashion is a conversation. If you liked her armour-suits, her quinceanera tulles, go for it. I'm just here to point out how mediocre all of it is.
 
The tailoring is good, but that biker leather jacket dress is so dated - no one wanted it back at McQueen then, and no one would want it here now. I'm not sure why she references the new Alaïa. The Elle Fanning Oscar dress, updated version, is cute, but it screams Giambattista Valli, even more so with those tulle mules. The giant scaves are stupid
 
i stopped reading the moment you said demna 😁just cancels out anything else youre about to say.

one makes clothes the other makes merch
Glad I wasn't the only one. Demna and Jeremy Scott (LOL) mentioned in the same sentence as Burton is laughable. Her work just drips quality.
 
The tailoring is wonderful, beautiful silhouettes! And that coat on Lulu is giving me Dries F/W 12 with a bit Yohji's Mens F/W 11, just wonderful :heart:.

Perhaps a few too many ideas thrown into the mix but I'd like to see where this goes. Who styled out of interest?
 
I think people have this idea that EVERY show has to be some spectacle with some grand vision. Luxury fashion doesn't have any obligation to entertain the masses. Does it help? Sure. But that's a marketing tool and it's not a sufficient way to judge a collection.
 
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I hate myself for mentioning these two 'trashy' OnlyFans models, but the UK mainstream media are desperate and keep bringing them up. Anyway, this dress looks like a crime scene with leftover used condoms from Bonnie Blue and Lily Phillips.
 
Speaking of this dress, the first look etc.
We're dealing here with people who have graduated from those legendary schools like CSM, people who have worked with legends and have led the houses of those legends later in life.
Why on Earth do they...do this? They're supposed to be literally aware that stuff like this just looks cheap. It's not playful cheap. It's not odd cheap. It's just solid cheap.
 

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