kiddokiddo
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- Aug 18, 2005
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Not the best (like his Fall 2007) but certainly a good collection from Ricardo, with all his signatures reinterpreted without the gimmicks.
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The best thing about this collection is that it feels like Tisci has let loose a bit. He often over-thinks his pieces which results in a really synthetic collection. But this feels so natural and unforced for him. Not to mention this collection will sell like beef schnitzel.
Am I the only one who feels like I'm looking at the same thing over and over again? Beyond that first great outfit with the flounce, there's NOTHING else. The other interesting outfits are variations on the exact same flounced peplum front. And those "skirts" hanging by a chain are really stupid.
As for Givenchy, I thought Riccardo Tisci did a good job sticking to a sharp, sexy message. The show had a tenacious quality, rather, in fact, like a shark — one of the sea creatures that served as a reference. Yet Mr. Tisci didn’t overplay the water-world element, despite what I expected from the press notes, nor did he get hung up on the rock of drippy romance. (Admittedly I wanted to take scissors to the dangly bits on a few dresses. Seaweed-inspired or mermaid? Does it matter?) Shark, eel, stingray and sea wolf were among the textural materials, but you were more aware of how things worked in unison with the neutral palette and the confident attitude.
Of course, it helps when your show opens with Natalia Vodianova, closes with Gisele Bundchen and includes Frankie Rayder and Karolina Kurkova. Many of the opening dresses and close-fitting jackets suggested skin-diving gear, with back flaps, or were cut on the curve and banded in satin or some other material. When Mr. Tisci did ruffles, he made them look graphically extreme, cluttering the fronts of blouses or the edge of a jacket. Also strong were slim olive skirts and matching polo shirts in leopard-spotted sea wolf.