Gucci Menswear F/W 2023.24 Milan

[IndigoHomme]

A Gucci collection without a Gucci logo?

tenor.com

 

[Scotty]

Can they just make Gucci sexy again? We're well into 2020s now, it's been a while.

 

[WAVES]

it’s both Céline and Celine but bad.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

it’s both Céline and Celine but bad.

It reminded me a little of Celine without the accent mark too, as well as D&G, in the way they both are focused on trends for 15 y/o's right now

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It's really uninspiring and boring, but that was to be expected. These clothes will collect dust on the shelf and rack up a couple of editorial pages, but that's all the life it's going to live.

 

[toffie]

The set and soundtrack contradict those who said Hedi had lost his influence lol.

 

[jeanclaude]

Sooo predictable!! The execs took Michele´s bunch of freaks; and proceed to add water and stir. And the result is just an ersatz...

 

[Frederic01]

I don't understand how this is supposed to recapture the old menswear clientele that was lost under Michele's reign? That was one of the objectives of Kering going forward for Gucci, and yet, with a collection like this, so rooted in youth culture? It makes no sense...

 

[LadyJunon]

I don't understand how this is supposed to recapture the old menswear clientele that was lost under Michele's reign? That was one of the objectives of Kering going forward for Gucci, and yet, with a collection like this, so rooted in youth culture? It makes no sense...

While the collection is quite young (more juvenile, but let's be nice), lots of the more feminine, decorative tropes to Michele's menswear are reduced by a lot here. There's also quite a few tropes of Demna's menswear: stylised workwear, distressed fabrics, oversized silhouettes. My personal theory is that they're trying to push Balenciaga's loyal menswear clientele onto Gucci to prepare for Demna's departure.

It won't work.

 

[Lola701]

It’s funny I didn’t get the Hedi references or influence. I saw an attempt to mix early 00’s Gucci with Michele’s aesthetic. Early 00´s Gucci was very rock and glamour…

The magic of Hedi’s work is precisely the styling. Hedi sells you a whole look. There’s something very obvious or instantly desirable in a way he present his work.

And I think Tom and Alessandro are more about a feeling, a piece, a silhouette…But this lacks the precision, the luxurious allure and the jet set factor.
And I’m thinking about the stores. Those clothes made in much more reasonable proportions are just boring…Very Tod’s. There’s nothing wrong about that in itself but for such a voice in fashion, we need more.

 

[JoCaderone]

clueless and miserable

 

[PierreGotha]

The entire collection screams inconsistency and short-sighted vision.They took some elements from Hedi and then proceeded to randomly reference the movie, Billy Elliot.

 

[kasper!]

I would rather they go back to their root: classic jet-set 70's Italian Dolce-vita a Capri style.

 

[margielamike2004]

Thank God for the music....otherwise, I would have fallen asleep. To.me....barely any of this is fashion. It just looks like clothes. Barely a busy pattern in this show....practically everything was a solid color. I do like the oversized silhouette....especially the denim pants but? And that skirt/psnts thing-a-ma jig looks like something by Jean Paul Gaultier. He's been doing stuff like that for men..... since the beginning of his career.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

This looks like something Kim Jones would do for Fendi, passing off some the Hedi-isms as "Kate Moss at Glastonbury" inspired for the sake of once again making it clear that they're friends.

Thanks, I hate it.

 

[Ruito]

Shockingly terrible show. Absolute train-wreck.

I can't believe they gave up Alessandro for whatever we just witnessed, which was some sort of weird Hedi-Slimane-Demna-Alessandro mash-up, that was trying waaaaaayyyyy too hard to be "louche" and "cool", but instead ended up looking stupid and mundane.

you took the words right out of my mouth

 

[McQ20]

At first, I thought that they would release the collection with the direction of their new CD. I was proven wrong. As others said, it was indeed Michele-lite. I found this collection practical and essential, yet still respectful to Michele's proposition. From a business standpoint, it was a safe and smart move. They don't want to alienate consumers who are now accustomed to Michele's aesthetics but at the same time, they want to leave some room for a different look. I did like some of the coats and bags though. Regarding whether this was runway-worthy or not, I'd say that if you were Gucci and have these resources, then you have nothing to lose when you do a runway presentation. Runway generates more buzz (especially for non-pre collections) and is a good way to maintain the brand's engagement.

On a side note, the slouchy looks were done better I think in No.21's AW 2019 men's collection.

 

[mom4etozavsi4ko]

Can they just make Gucci sexy again? We're well into 2020s now, it's been a while.

I was hoping for that. I didn`t enjoy Michelle`s esthetics and his collections. When I heard he is kicked out from Gucci, I was like now is the time for this brand to come back to that sexy style they use to have.

 

[TaylorBinque]

This cries for help.