Haider Ackermann F/W 13.14 Paris

[lelaid]

so rich, luxe, and chic.

 

[Psylocke]

Love this! It's easy, clean and gorgeous. The frayed edges and huge slouchy tops are amazing. The collection is basically perfect. And he's adorable too - could he look cuter for his bow!!!??

I know, always one of my favorite moments in his shows!


I quite like it, too. It's not breathtaking or extremely exciting to me, I've seen better from him and liked his F/W 08.09 - S/S 2011 collections a lot more than his more recent ones. But still, I never feel let down by him because he's just consistently good and there are always several highlights in every collection. Here I love the 2nd look a lot, and the oversized sweaters are really nice. Not too fond of the earthy colors and I could do without the (faux?) fur pieces. But I do love the shiny silver pieces, for some reason. Definitely another chic, sexy and solid collection from him.

 

[JuiceMajor]

This is indeed quite a reinvention...

 

[Marc10]

I love that he went back to a more urban feeling, kinda like his shows from 08/09, but still not leaving the superb elegance of the silhouette (those two looks on Daiane and Kasia ). This should be every modern woman's uniform.

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

Although I usually love everything Ackermann is doing, this collection felt a bit "muted" compared to the stuff he usually does.

 

[gossiping]

wow well i'm the only one who hates this a lot last season was really exciting with all the dots and this is way too boring...

 

[BerlinRocks]

i think this is the first Haider's collection I don't really like from A to Z .....

Is Vogue US consulting Ackermann, now ?

I think his recent international media praises have turned his work and direction into something way tooooo commercial ....

"You're doing a great job, Haider. But now you need to sell these clothes, do one or two commercial collections, and I'll find you an AD position in one of the best French Maisons...." is something I imagine Anna W would say to him....

 

[tricotineacetat]

Something continuously bugs me about the cut of his clothes, like you want to think he was a great tailor with all those sharp jackets and coats, yet I look at the finishing and the ill fitting on most of them and can't help but think that individual pieces consistently don't live up to the praise he receives for his runway shows. I also do think that the choice of fabrics and colours for the first time in a while does not work to his favour here - Yes, this is a much more commercially-minded attempt by Haider Ackermann, but some of these outfits look almost dowdy and old for their choice of heritage fabrics.

 

[Scott]

i dunno,imo,if you go back and look at most of haider's earliest of collections(2002-2004)this earthier more classical side of him was actually what he was doing a lot of then. and i actually really loved it more than what he's been doing of late. so for me i don't really see it as some discovered sense of commerce but an already existing part of his repertoire.

 

[tricotineacetat]

He's done 'commercial' already towards the beginning of his career before the likes of Net-a-porter etc. jumped on the hype of his name very recently, I haven't forgotten about it... Regardless of, it's undeniable to see that his collections in recent years had been more of a Gesamtkunstwerk with heavily collaged/layered stylings in which case it was hard to decipher singular items out of a complete look (similarly frustrating than with Helmut Lang in cases such as his SS'04 collection, which was a commercial flop). This is easier to approach with a lot less excessive draping and usage of lush silk satins and brocades. More daywear-minded if you want...

 

[ForChicSake]

beautiful collection he never fails

 

[Uemarasan]

He usually has an exquisite sense of color, but here I thought it was poorly used with regard to the fabric choices. The only successful look for me is the final one. I agree, the combination of color, cut, and fabric make these clothes look terribly unmodern. A disappointing collection.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Haider always delivers beautiful and amazing clothes. He's been getting a lot of flack from editors for mirroring Gianfranco Ferre (the designer, not the current house), but I think he does something all his own. I actually love the colors and find the palette to be one of his most sophisticated while still remaining understandable (he's one of the best in terms of color). What does make me have doubts are the bizarre moments where he shows a totally different taste level, some of these pieces could easily be mistaken for Cavalli. We associate the line with Tilda Swinton but you do wonder who Haider's customer really is. I guess it's only a good thing that he can offer a wider variety but it is a little confusing and no designer wants that.