Haider Ackermann Mens S/S 2015 Paris

[Phuel]

^and i am such addict for scarves too!

you know i see it more as campy in the way of sort of an leftbank opium den bohemian 60's....

I don't see camp either, Scott. There's too much work put into these designs for me to dismiss his style as camp. ( I appreciate how tightly edited a collection it is-- instead of a hundred looks like Armani that makes you tired quickly.) It's beautiful-- but it just doesn't work, for me.

I do think Haider is immensely talented, and his inspiration seems to be the image of the intellectual, gentleman traveler. I get that. But when you look at Dries' collection, whose inspiration seems to also have sprung from similar references: romantic and modern-- perhaps a young, elegant Baryshnikov as a macho matador in a ballet, I can't help but think how Dries succeeds so wildly with his collection that I, and apparently many others, also connect with, while Haider appears to have... not connected his inspiration with a sense of practicality, at all.

So yes, it is very self-indulgent, as you suggested. I don't doubt his sincerity with this collection, it's just that it's too precious to me, whereas Dries' men are so effortless. And precious fashion for men totally turns me off.

I guess I just much prefer Dries' unfettered, dangling strappy shoulder pieces to Haider's carefully flowing scarves, which yes-- I can't unsee Steven Tyler in every one of those looks now

 

[MulletProof]

I was scrolling down building up on words regarding the degree of douchebaggery going on in some of these looks until I spotted that ticket to heaven aka. golden velvet jacket...

 

[Scott]

hehe...apparently haider was inspired by keith richards and nick cave....for some reason i don't see nick in this at all. it's too flashy. nick is the tailored romantic and normally in a shade of melancholy. certainly a nod to keith,but steven tyler is indeed inescapable for me a little disappointing those were his influences and the collection for me doesn't reflect it.

 

[TianCouture]

I don't know, this looks like every other season to me. I liked it at the start, but now everything feels blurred together by a lack of progression. I really feel that the only way to wear his clothing is by extracting one or two pieces per season and for me it would be a pant. On the other hand, however, I feel it would be somehow wrong to wear his clothing with another brand! Like it wouldn't look right or something, almost as if it's a site-specific art piece!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Wearing any label head-to-toe screams mindless, fashion-victim to me.

Fashion isn't art to me, so mixing different designers, as well as designer with vintage, custome-made, army surplus and basics from Gap, Uniqlo etc is how most individuals who enjoy fashion wear their clothes. I think that's how Haider may also see his designs worn. Women-- particularly those who already buy his women's designs, will readily be buying pieces from his men's collection that catches their eye. Easily.

What I appreciate about his menswear is that it's such a small, focused collection. But each piece is there because they stand on their own-- rather then there because it's part of a whole look. In that sense, I think his aim, and his purpose in introducing a men's collection is to offer something special, maybe even artisanal, that isn't about trendsetting and innovation, but more about that special piece that becomes an investment in a certain man's wardrobe. And I think you can achieve Haider's look without even buying any of his pieces: Just look towards Steven Taylor and Keith Richards.

Yeah, I agree Scott-- I don't see Nick Cave, although if Nick was an influence, I wished it was clearer here (although in his past collections, I sort of see the Nick influences in the models, the hair...), at least clearer than Keith Richards-- and Steven Taylor influences.

(Ann's first collections for men were very Nick Cave. I sensed her team returning to that for a/w 2014, but was rather disappointed with the absence of that Nick-esque sharp spirit for s/s 2015.)

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i love the luxurious ease of some of this, though some just looks casually messy.

but i want to own that double-breasted striped jacket. swoon.