Hedi Slimane - Designer

[disco54]

Those sketches are not a good sign, they remind me of Pilati's work, esp the skirts lol

 

[helmut.newton]

It looks nice but it doesn't look so different to what Stefano Pilati was doing for Saint Laurent...

 

[tatouejeremie]

a little bit more info from financial times

http://blogs.ft.com/material-world/2012/07/05/first-reports-on-hedi-slimanes-ysl-womenswear/

First reports on Hedi Slimane’s YSL womenswear
July 5, 2012 10:32 am by Vanessa Friedman

As you may (or may not) be aware, Hedi Slimane’s first YSL collections –
women’s resort and menswear — have hit the showroom, but they are for
buyers’ eyes only: they aren’t being shown on the catwalk, and this week
in Paris, critics (that would be your truly), were not invited for a
look-see. Mr Slimane wants to make his first knock-our-socks-off,
he-can-do-womenswear statement in the autumn, at the ready-to-wear shows.

(Also maybe he didn’t want the media making up a face-off between
himself and new Dior designer Raf Simons, whose first couture show for the
House was the news of the week.)

Happily for the curious folks among us, however, buyers will talk, albeit
anonymously — they didn’t have to sign a non-disclosure statement — and
the word in the retail world on Mr Slimane’s first attempt at
womenswear is largely very good.

Though there was some confusion on the street as to how involved he was in
the collection because of the September issue and because the brand is in
the usual transition between old regimes and new, for anyone wondering,
the house itself says Mr Slimane is firmly in charge.

The resort collection is said to be inspired by the early days of Saint
Laurent — think of the famous photo Helmut Newton took for French Vogue
in 1975 on Rue Aubriot, with a nude woman in stilettos standing next to
another woman in a skinny tux with a blouse dripping a bow if you want the
quick-twitch reference. So reports are of skinny suiting, always a Slimane
signature, but also, more surprisingly (and interestingly) little silk
dresses with bias-cut mini-skirts covered in tiny dots, the tops
referencing the tux blouse, both sleeved and not, with a touch of Ossie
Clarke.

Anyway, buyers I spoke to seemed genuinely charmed by what they saw. The
appetite is whetted.

 

[iluvjeisa]

^Well, at least that sounds really good. He obviously has the style, but I wonder more about the flair, the dash and the unexpected...

Yves Saint Laurent was a lot more than a hipster Jared Leto - most of all he had a sincerity about him that was channelled into hos creations. I guess McQueen and Galliano were the last ones of that breed.

Even though these designs sound very promising, I still fear that Slimane will be to "up" - trendy, efficient, businesslike, neurotic - and not at all capable of the deep, sincere, melodramatic mood-swings that generate clothes that somehow reflect that fascinating trembling yet jubilant mind of the original creator. On the other hand Pilati was rather blah, so I guess it's a step in the right direction somehow.

 

[GERGIN]

So is Hedi going to pull a Tom Ford and deput his collection on the pages of Vogue? I'm confused how in the world I am going to be able to see this Resort collection. Based on the sketches I actually think it looks promising....was not even expecting that much color from him to begin with.

 

[Marc10]

@ysl

 

[mistress_f]

^it's stated clearly on wwd that those were not hedi's sketches, what's with ysl being so touchy?

 

[GERGIN]

"And obviously not designed by Hedi Slimane"....quote of the day

 

[Thefrenchy]

That is so stupid

 

[Spike413]

^it's stated clearly on wwd that those were not hedi's sketches, what's with ysl being so touchy?

It's not that WWD claimed the illustrations were Hedi's, it's that the sketches apparently aren't of Hedi's work for the house, hence their clarification.

I couldn't be more relieved that those sketches aren't of the collection. Beautiful as they are, they're as unimaginatively Saint Laurent as it gets to the point of cliché.

 

[Zazie]

I must applaud Hedi Slimane's knack and media savvy for driving up the hype and secrecy surrounding his debut though, Cruise 2013 or not!

 

[tatouejeremie]

the description vanessa friedman gave of the collection matches the sketches though?

 

[mistress_f]

still, the other review posted hints at looks that could very well be the ones we saw in the sketches

it's confusing, aswell, cause i don't think wwd would go out and release / post stuff that wasn't true to reality? guess we'll just have to wait and see

 

[disco54]

I read in New York Magazine , its very 80s, skinny tuxes, skinny pants, hot pants, skinny jeans and blouses and pointy toe shoes. Honestly I am not very impressed, but many buyers were. It seems like Balmain with Tom Ford influences thrown in. The color palette was Black and white mainly.

 

[GERGIN]

I read in New York Magazine , its very 80s, skinny tuxes, skinny pants, hot pants, skinny jeans and blouses and pointy toe shoes. Honestly I am not very impressed, but many buyers were.It seems like Balmain with Tom Ford influences thrown in. The color palette was Black and white mainly.

lol is this for real? I don't want you to think badly of me when i say but YSL influenced designs for houses like Balmain and Tom Ford. You should buy his book collection and see for yourself. I don't think anyone is entitled to say YSL looks like any other designer....just saying.

 

[disco54]

I am not talking of YSL under Yves Saint Laurent and you obviously did not understand the context of what I was saying. To say YSL was not inspired by other designer's work is ignorant, lot of his work in the 70's especially his famous Collection 40 was influenced by Schiaparelli and other designers from the late 30s and early 40s. I was strictly talking about descriptions given from reports about Hedi Slimane's resort collection. I am entitled to my opinion..just saying.

 

[KKnardi]

^ why wasn't press invited to the pre-collection showing?

 

[VogueParisLover]

^ From the Financial Times article:

Mr Slimane wants to make his first knock-our-socks-off, he-can-do-womenswear statement in the autumn, at the ready-to-wear shows.

 

[glitterpeacock]

From Harper's Bazaar

THE TRUTH BEHIND YSL’S REBRANDING
Only the ready-to-wear line will be affected by Hedi Slimane’s name change from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris.

When it was announced that new creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, was going to change the name of the brand to Saint Laurent Paris, shockwaves rippled through the fashion world.

Despite early reports to the contrary, this new name change will not affect all areas of the company – only the ready-to-wear line. The Yves Saint Laurent cosmetics line will keep its name, for example, and the official company name will not change.

Instead of signalling radical change the new name in fact marks a return to the brand’s heritage, with Saint Laurent Paris sounding similar to the original Saint Laurent Rive Gauche ready-to-wear line, first launched in 1966.

Indeed, the move even has the blessing of Pierre Bergé, Yves’ partner, who told WWD: "I’m very happy. Anything that makes the house more Saint Laurent is welcome."

Slimane debuted his first collection for the fashion house to buyers last week, although no images will be released until after the spring/summer 2013 show.

http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/latest-news/the-truth-about-ysl-rebranding-090712

 

[GERGIN]

augh, seriously? I have to wait till October to see RTW and resort?!?!? *sobs*