Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent; Anthony Vaccarello hired

[Lola701]

What Yves did at the time was controversial only because he was doing Couture. He was talking to a very particular crowd...
His 1968 collection was shocking because it only featured pants and one sheer dress. But in the salons and in the couture world, that kind of statement was revolutionnary because it was a very codified society.

Women in Paris and around the world wore those slinky 40's dresses before Saint Laurent decided to do his 1971 collection.

In a way, it's kinda ridiculous to compare Yves to his successors because each of them was inspired by a particular period of his career.

His beatnik collection for Dior was rebel for a house like Dior, for couture clients, in 1960.
Deciding to dress his models as sexy "prostitute" inspired women in 1971, for couture, in Paris, in the France of Georges Pompidou is almost a Punk act.

Even if YSL himself started to blur lines (due to the commercial success of Rive Gauche), Rive Gauche & Couture had a different spirit at the beginning.

 

[Creative]

^Totally. I mean, he even named a shoe after a prostitue 50 years ago. Complaining about the level of design, which was close to zero, is totally legit, but I never understood why people kept saying his vision for the house was not respectful. And more when that vision is inspired in the house's history.

People said that of Karl and now fashion followers think what Karl does is 100% Chanel.

 

[Lola701]

^Totally. I mean, he even named a shoe after a prostitue 50 years ago. Complaining about the level of design, which was close to zero, is totally legit, but I never understood why people kept saying his vision for the house was not respectful. And more when that vision is inspired in the house's history.

People said that of Karl and now fashion followers think what Karl does is 100% Chanel.

Yves himself wasn't respectful of hiw own aesthetic. I remember watching a documentary where Newton said that he wasn't pleased shooting the cheesy fashion YSL was doing. He said that he loved his 70's, agressive and sexy fashion (in the documentary he was shooting an early 90's campaign with Karen Mulder).

Hedi, Tom and Stefano were doing exactly what Karl did with Chanel. Like Karl, i don't believe in respect...You can't make an impact while being respectful to the past.

Saint Laurent is maybe the most difficult house to take. In his 40 years, he was very influencial, daring and cutting-edge only for 15 years.
From the early 80's to 2002, YSL was the perfect bourgeoise "jolie madame" fashion house. I believe that it must be difficult to imagine that it was something other than that.

When you watch the footage of the 1971 collection in 1971 and you compare it to the same exact looks who were featured in his retrospective collection, it looks like two different things...

 

[Creative]

Oh, yes, I remember it too. It was from a Newton documentary, weren't they shooting in Monaco? I remember Karen wearing a flower-print dress.

Many people criticize YSL's last decades (myself included), but I sort of like the idea of an old-fashioned Saint Laurent. It's inspiring to me. How could he be that anachronistic?

And I don't like the word respect either. I'm so over it and bores me to death.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Rive Gauche was less sophisticated for HF followers than Hedi's approach of YSL to us. Women who saw couture shows wearing white gloves didn't think Rive Gauche had anything remotely sophisticated and were totally mad about it.

You are being the women with white gloves of 2016. But what is weird is that doing what a designer wants at a fashion house is more than usual and has been more than usual for decades. Californian-grungy chic, trainers at couture or homeless inspired collections, we've seen it all... Never got the hate towards Hedi's vision for the house.

Chanel at a supermarket is fine and Bowie-inspired jumpsuits chez Dior too, but Hedi's inspirations aren't.

I remember my aunt wearing Rive Gauche, and you are quite wrong about its being anything less than sophisticated.

YSL may have been inspired by what was happening on the street, but I agree that his clothes were always elegant, and his inspiration (and versatility and vision) were also incredibly diverse. Mondrian is just one example that was nowhere near the street ...

 

[Creative]

I remember my aunt wearing Rive Gauche, and you are quite wrong about its being anything less than sophisticated.

Women who saw couture shows didn't think Rive Gauche had anything remotely sophisticated and were totally mad about it.

 

[george5]

^^ The Mondrian dresses debuted in a Haute Couture collection (S/S 1965)

 

[george5]

^ EDIT: It's F/W 1965 Couture, not S/S.

 

[liberty33r1b]

YSL never showed sl*tty dresses, in contrast Hedi's dresses never looked anything but sl*tty. that's a huge difference

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ That sums it up very well. I've noticed the majority of Slimane fans here seem to be men rather than women. It seems to make a difference whether wearing the clothes is a real possibility for you or not

 

[Creative]

YSL never showed sl*tty dresses, in contrast Hedi's dresses never looked anything but sl*tty. that's a huge difference

YSL did a collection inspired by prostitutes, but... what do you mean? If YSL didn't do a certaing thing (which in this case he actually did), then the next designers can't?

If fashion was like that there would be no legit designers to work at old maisons...

Each designer has a personality, they are inspired by certain thing of the past or not even that. They create what they think a brand should be in the moment they are designing. End of the question.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I think what's clear is that some folks here don't understand the point liberty is making. It's a matter of perspective I suppose.

 

[tangerine]

All posts are matters of personal perspective, that's why we are here, to give ours.

Just because someone doesn't agree with a perspective doesn't mean they don't understand it, and it's best not to cast aspersions - by that I mean throw shade, in current usage - on others' ability to understand. That goes for everyone here.

Regarding what is sl*tty, or what is jolie madame, mores (the essential or characteristic customs and conventions of a community) change over time and things may be interpreted differently at one point in time than they were previously.

We are all free to disagree with each other but let's keep it respectful, thank you all for participating.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Let me rephrase ...

If you've never been a woman, you may not truly understand society's expectations and definitions of women as women do, and therefore may not truly understand women's perspective on clothes as they relate to those expectations and definitions. For women, these are not just clothes and not just art and not just commerce--they go to the heart of who we are and how we want that presented to the world. These are valid perspectives that shouldn't be dismissed with an "End of the question."

 

[Creative]

I don't think it's a matter of gender. In fact, fashion biggest successes of our time have always been directed by men (Céline aside Saint Laurent, Gucci, Dior, Chanel, the new Gucci, Balenciaga, Versace, Lang, Margiela...

And the end of the question was by no means supposed to be shady. It's just that in EVERY thread we get the same answers: this is not Gucci, this is not YSL, this is not Dior, this is not Balenciaga, this is not Lanvin... And yes, people can actually say what they want, but sometimes it looks like they aren't concious that YSL is not what Stefano did, or maybe yes, but also what Hedi is doing... Because it's their vision. There are no more valid visions than others. What is better or worse is the 'fashion'.

Chanel hated miniskirts yet Karl has been doing miniskirts at Chanel like forever... And everybody thinks he is her natural heir. In 1983 everyone said what he did was not Chanel. And now everyone thinks Chanel is/was what Karl is doing. And it has little to do with what it actually was...

In 2016 I think that topic is obsolete...

 

[reese06]

Speaking of Chanel...from Harper's bazaar

Karl Lagerfeld could be retiring after Chanel's cruise show in Cuba in May, Page Six reports. The 83-year-old designer, who is creative director of Chanel and Fendi in addition to an eponymous line, is reportedly "really tired," a friend told Page Six. "He's not doing well and he's ready to stop."

Lagefeld has helmed Chanel since 1983 and Fendi since 1965. In 2012 he told the press he'll retire when he dies: ""If I do [retire], I'll die and it'll all be finished … I can do what I want in all kinds of areas. The expenses are not expenses. I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored."

http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/news/a15194/karl-lagerfeld-retirement-rumors/

 

[Lola701]

^^
I love the "he is tired" comment. He is so tired that he decided to do the decor of the Monaco's "Bal De La Rose", another Haute Fourrure Fendi collection...etc.

People want that Chanel job so bad/wants him to leave Chanel so bad, that they are not at all mentionning Fendi. After 50 years of collaboration, it seems more logical for him to retire from Fendi first.
Chanel is based in Paris, his 7L studio also.

I don't believe that Karl will leave Chanel without doing at least one last couture show.

 

[Fashionstuff]

^^
I love the "he is tired" comment. He is so tired that he decided to do the decor of the Monaco's "Bal De La Rose", another Haute Fourrure Fendi collection...etc.

People want that Chanel job so bad/wants him to leave Chanel so bad, that they are not at all mentionning Fendi. After 50 years of collaboration, it seems more logical for him to retire from Fendi first.
Chanel is based in Paris, his 7L studio also.

I don't believe that Karl will leave Chanel without doing at least one last couture show.

Agree!
He is not going to retire and if he would than he will begin with Fendi.
I think he had decorated Monaco's "Bal De La Rose" to demonstrate for the society that he is not tired at all.

 

[haydn]

Saint Laurent is still opening stores under Hedi's format - they just announced a Vancouver flagship and the sketches look exactly like the current model, and I didn't expect this would change. I think he set a formula in place and Kering intends to follow as long as it's profitable. But they're rushing to get the store open by end of summer - in time for Hedi's last collection to hit the racks. I expect big demand for this upcoming collection.

Still worried about what Vacarello can do with menswear. If you take his signature tailoring and sex appeal with combine it with what Saint Laurent has been producing the past few seasons, you end up with Balmain. I assume menswear was vital to growth at YSL, and i think it represented a big portion of the brands income. Vaccarello will do fine with womenswear, but his mens collection is going to be the most anticipated debut on the mens calendar.

 

[Fashionstuff]

Speaking of Chanel...from Harper's bazaar

Karl Lagerfeld could be retiring after Chanel's cruise show in Cuba in May, Page Six reports. The 83-year-old designer, who is creative director of Chanel and Fendi in addition to an eponymous line, is reportedly "really tired," a friend told Page Six. "He's not doing well and he's ready to stop."

Lagefeld has helmed Chanel since 1983 and Fendi since 1965. In 2012 he told the press he'll retire when he dies: ""If I do [retire], I'll die and it'll all be finished … I can do what I want in all kinds of areas. The expenses are not expenses. I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored."

http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/news/a15194/karl-lagerfeld-retirement-rumors/

The answer to the rumors is in article ( i don't understand why they post this article , if it can named as one article...)

Source : harpersbazaar.com

Lagefeld has helmed Chanel since 1983 and Fendi since 1965. In 2012 he told the press he'll retire when he dies: ""If I do [retire], I'll die and it'll all be finished … I can do what I want in all kinds of areas. The expenses are not expenses. I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored."[/QUOTE]