Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 2023 Paris

[brandon J pierre]

Also the black models opening add to the chic modern drama! nice and slim sample size! these girls make your dream

 

[style_expert]

Glorious really!
It's totally indefensible to see so many mediocre designers currently at storied couture houses while they could create the right circumstances and hire Haider immediately. We'll see. Wertheimers and Arnaults, please wake up and see the magic in front of you.

 

[bc collector]

The last time couture looked so spellbinding and, let me say it, modern was when Claude Montana did Lanvin couture.

You can already see that these clothes, like those, will not age a second, they will be as visually arresting in twenty, fifty years time as they are now. Which, come think of it, should be the essence of good design, in fashion or not.

This puts pretty much the rest of Paris Couture week to shame, starting from Maria Grazia'a Haute-a-porter, Armani's dusty harlequins, Virginie's girlies who lunch and Daniel's entirely ludicrous zoo-themed extravaganza...

 

[brandon J pierre]

Goosebumps! I just forgot how long we haven’t seen this kind of pure fashion on the runway. I mean everyone has their own definition of pure fashion but this is mine. BRAVO!

put him at dior, put him at chanel, put him at mcqueen, give him to f*cking givenchy too (god knows they need it); just give him a limitless budget and he'll work wonders.

But would this world of Kardashian press buy into it, remember the taste of this world is not the same , would it sell ? people want a lion head and red faces ! this is a no go for some! which is to bad!

 

[velvetandsilk]

Magnificent.
Pure fashion. Seductive, mysterious and sophisticated.
If I were the curator of a fashion museum, I'd buy these two dresses. In the future, they will be a very good example of what fashion means.

Vogue.com

 

[yslforever]

fu*k that get him at Chanel

At YSL now !

 

[tricotineacetat]

I probably enjoy this collection less for it's separate pieces than I do for what it stands in contrast for right now - And by that, we don't need to look much further than the 'couture clients' thread in this very forum to get an idea just how stuffy the taste levels of most these women are who make up the majority of clients who actually purchase couture every season - Wives of oligarchs, chinese industrialists or from the gulf states. While these women can of course spend their money as they please, I'm not surprised the existing couture houses who actually make money with this kind of service, have exactly the kind of designers in place who know how to please those women. Their taste and culture is far removed from Haider's and it's a good thing that can still have a place in the present fashion conversation, at a house that can afford to make couture collections that do not need to sell. So from that perspective, I am very hesitant to hope for a designer like Haider (or Olivier Theyskens) to take on such a house.

 

[IndigoHomme]

Haider Ackermann can make gold from the shreds that other pseudo-creatives have left behind from big brands. He left me speechless: the fact that he makes me want feminine clothes (like the jacket with tattered ruffles) is the sign of a creator who makes irresistible pieces

 

[Urban Stylin]

Everything was perfect from the clothes, the casting, music, presentation, mood etc

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Curious to see what Ms. Sutton Stracke will be ordering

 

[thiago:)]

I read on Twitter today people trying to compare this collection with what Glenn's done and they actually said Haiden will never come close to him. Major LOL. Jokes aside, it feels good to be alive and witness the fashion gods doing their magic. Bravo!

 

[Machinegumm]

How this guy isn't flooded with job offers is beyond me. HOW many times does he have to deliver before someone slaps a contract on his desk?

 

[Phuel]

^^^ These are such lesser fashion days, that's why.

I read on Twitter today people trying to compare this collection with what Glenn's done and they actually said Haiden will never come close to him. Major LOL. Jokes aside, it feels good to be alive and witness the fashion gods doing their magic. Bravo!

Sadly, these are the types that only know Gaultier with the tattoo-prints and corsetry. And unfortunately, what is deemed as high style these days of the SM/influencer era, look no further than the recent story “The Story Of A Great Outfit” in American Bazaar. The accompanying scrapbook pics of the most desperately-seeking-attention clowns all vying to outdo Bruno/Zoolander/Edina Monsoon is hilariously tragic of what is admired as “style” nowadays: Literal clownwear with all the thought and sophistication of what a 5yo would wrangle together. Glenn has talent, but he’s by far the weakest of all the collaborators.

You know, the Couture clientele are of a certain height/build/age, not to mention from a more reserved, conservative environment. It’s understandable that they would gravitate towards a certain aesthetic. And a talent like Haider— much like Gaultier (and Galliano, McQueen, Theyskens) understand this more than any lesser, and are able to conjure the classic alongside the modern into something exquisite. That’s the true test if Couture— not anything goes. And Haider being teh classic side of Gaultier— while Olivier Rousteing was the more pop side, represented the duality of Gaultier extremely well. I’ll gladly take the conservative clientele anytime, anyday, anywhere.

 

[perhydrol]

I must say, I'm not the biggest fan of Haider's work and I hadn't been excited for this collaboration. This show, however, left me speechless. The whole production was on point and it only underlined how wonderful the looks were. What's particularly great about them is that their cut is so sharp and mastered to perfection, it's definitely not a collection of decorations on the surface. There was also the right amount of drama to make it truly memorable and pleasant to watch. Overall, I'd say this show was just an amazing experience and I really hope it will be followed by the ready-to-wear capsule.

 

[Olaffo]

As Donna Summer was singing "Ooh it's so good, it's so good / It's so good, it's so good / It's so good" - the collection is a breath of fresh air and basically Haider has shown yet again that he is high up there on a fashion Olympus.

I'm his devoted fan so obviously my judgement is clouded by this seductive jackets, dramatic coats, colours, shapes etc. He has truly filtered Jean Paul Gaultier's aesthetics through his genius. Love that to bits!

How this guy isn't flooded with job offers is beyond me. HOW many times does he have to deliver before someone slaps a contract on his desk?

The problem is that the contracts were "slapped on his desk" multiple times. He has been, allegedly, I was not in the room , offered position at Dior after Raf's departure, at Chanel just before Karl's death and I believe at Givenchy after Tisci. These are the almost confirmed cases, CEO knows who else was offering him job. He is too independent, to wild spirit to adhere to exploitative rhythm of fashion. Imagine him designing 170 collections, capsules, pre-fall, post-fall, pre-summer, post-summer etc. this type of crap. It is not his idea of fashion; he clearly loves to occasionally appear and disappear. And maybe that's why we love what he does...

 

[Wolkfolk]

As much as a collection like this makes me wish he would take the helm of one of the , many, houses that desperately need a man of his talent (He would be amazing at Lanvin or Givenchy..) I also dont want his talent to be ruined and crushed by to the circus of a mega brand.

This was seriously great. And it is because you can feel Haider's complete insouciance in it.
It stands out compared to the previous assignments. It looks like, he designed this to enjoy the amazing opportunity and the ressources to the fullest + please JPG yet still surprise him. But not at all to please any gimmicks of the current state of fashion.
While his predecessors shouted the Gaultier codes, he whispered them in the most delicate and beautiful way.

It's a very interesting and smart yet respectful interpretation. Though I wanted him to give us more interesting and rich colors.
I also wish the casting was better as a whole. Some models sadly did not give justice to certain looks. But still.. It was all so elegant. Always nice to be reminded that this level of tailoring is still possible in Fashion.


side note : The collection did make me dream about what Alber Elbaz would have done if invited to design a collection

 

[jeanclaude]

I feel like is 1997 again, because I have felt the same kind of excitement when Galliano debuted at Dior, McQueen at Givenchy; and Gaultier launched his first HC collection.

So exquisite! There are some looks that I would remove...but as a whole is exquisite and sophisticated!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It's so disciplined and rigorous. Something that has been lacking in couture and in fashion in general for a while. Such clean austerity in vision allows everything to speak in their own terms which is what couture should do.
The black suiting looks and the yellow dress are just GORGEOUS!!!! I see Rabanne, Vionnet, Gres, Cristobal, early Givenchy... Designers that Gaultier always appreciated at his core, knowing he couldn't do what he did and still does without them.

The piece with the text/logo is a bit meh, but you know who it caters to and why it is there. Compromises often have to be made to please certain crowds so I'm not mad at it.

Main personal gripe is the models. Some of them tried to be moody but they just looked a little too uncoordinated and hammy. Not prime-McMenamy hammy but just a little cringe hammy.
BUT the love a lot of them have for Haider was so beautiful to see at the end. Kiki clapping her chest and not being able to stop smiling warmed my heart a fair bit. To even see Alana Zimmer in the show was a joy.

sh*ts all over Glenn's pretty gimmick driven take on Gaultier. No idea what these twitter stans are on about... And just let Haider work for Haider, and maybe bring him back to collaborate with Gaultier every now and then to give us all a good couture fix.

 

[TaylorBinque]

I know it would be good but I didn't know it would be this GREAT! So major, we truly don't deserve him.

Everything screams fashion but expertly executed to perfection. His vision for Gaultier is great and he really utilised the atelier. This is a class act. He would do wonders at any fashion house. PERIODT. Anyway, thank you H.A. for making us dream again.

 

[penny609]

I'm not going to pretend I am a couture specialist but I definitely enjoyed this collection to the maximum. Silhouettes are exquisite and that's all what seems to matter to my eyes (my poor eyes still hurting after the Valentino disaster...).