Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 2023 Paris

[fenty]

Find Haider a House NOWWWWW, fully funded, give him the budget he needs cause this was pure excellence!! haven't been this excited for HC in a while

 

[avonlea002]

They should hire a good photographer and shoot a proper lookbook because photos posted in this thread are just hideous. The lighting couldn't be any more unflattering. It's doing disservice to a great collection.

 

[Lola701]

^^^ These are such lesser fashion days, that's why.



Sadly, these are the types that only know Gaultier with the tattoo-prints and corsetry. And unfortunately, what is deemed as high style these days of the SM/influencer era, look no further than the recent story “The Story Of A Great Outfit” in American Bazaar. The accompanying scrapbook pics of the most desperately-seeking-attention clowns all vying to outdo Bruno/Zoolander/Edina Monsoon is hilariously tragic of what is admired as “style” nowadays: Literal clownwear with all the thought and sophistication of what a 5yo would wrangle together. Glenn has talent, but he’s by far the weakest of all the collaborators.

You know, the Couture clientele are of a certain height/build/age, not to mention from a more reserved, conservative environment. It’s understandable that they would gravitate towards a certain aesthetic. And a talent like Haider— much like Gaultier (and Galliano, McQueen, Theyskens) understand this more than any lesser, and are able to conjure the classic alongside the modern into something exquisite. That’s the true test if Couture— not anything goes. And Haider being teh classic side of Gaultier— while Olivier Rousteing was the more pop side, represented the duality of Gaultier extremely well. I’ll gladly take the conservative clientele anytime, anyday, anywhere.

I liked all the Guests-Couture collections so far but I think this is beyond because it’s more than an exercise de style.
The others gave a show in a proper sense of the word with clothes that had that performance quality that maybe touch those who misses the Galliano at Dior days. Even if there was always a touch of fantasy in Gaultier’s work, it has always been very linked to the idea of Couture clothes to wear…Beyond the showmanship.

It was interesting to see him watch carefully the clothes and to explain some details to Deneuve.

Haider went to Gaultier’s Couture repertoire which is itself an interesting parti-prit because the language he developed for his Couture much like his work for Hermes was less Pop, more grown up and more in tunes with the tradition of HC.

I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that this is Gaultier’s favorite collection so far. Maybe far less spectacular than the previous ones but much more impressive from a technical POV.

Find Haider a House NOWWWWW, fully funded, give him the budget he needs cause this was pure excellence!! haven't been this excited for HC in a while

I think Haider should do Hermes and on the side revive his own brand with only two shows a year in a demi-Couture à la Alaia kind of setting. That format can allow less compromise for him…

But maybe the Fila gig was a way for him to send a message to the industry. Couture And Sportswear in that sense couldn’t be more different but doing that also represent the kind of duality expected in the highest spheres of fashion today.

I can definitely see him take over Givenchy. He had past hits from his bomber worn by Kanye West to his friendship with Timothee.. And he had big covers without even being an advertiser.

The success of Anthony Vaccarello at YSL proves that you can sell a very narrow vision to the mass as long as it’s supported with a strong structure.

LVMH should take that chance.

 

[gallianostan]

I can definitely see him take over Givenchy.

i would fully support this; matthew williams is quite honestly driving the maison into the ground. the house needs someone with a laser precise, clearly-articulated vision who can revive the couture. some of the ensembles in this collection took me straight back to mcqueen's years at the house - it was like a nostalgic glimpse into fashion's past.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

This purple dress is really something… Quintessial couture.

I am not that crazy fond of this collection but among the bests from the couture week. Haider deserves everything he wants and I am still bitter about the whole Berluti gig.

 

[Delleone]

Now this is what we’re talking about. Literally on point — pointy point point; from the tippy toes to the finger tips. Cleaver-sharp, urgently direct, gimmic-free (yes, Daniel, yes, you over there!), grown up. Perfect. Bravo.

 

[MulletProof]

They should hire a good photographer and shoot a proper lookbook because photos posted in this thread are just hideous. The lighting couldn't be any more unflattering. It's doing disservice to a great collection.

Is it really the pictures though? just tried this on a third device and still went like.. hell no. But I've admittedly never been a JPG or Haider fan so..

 

[eugenius]

So the spiked coat & tracksuit were made w/ countless stick pins from the atelier? Now that's a feat of technical craftsmanship that I'd expect from Gaultier HC, similar to that "leopard" gown made w/ beads & that daywear suit made w/ crocodile scales (see: The Day Before..show). But if that winds up on Timothee, that'll mean he can't be hugged.

I can't imagine how Gaultier can continue to keep hiring new designers for his seasonal couture collections. Sooner or later, he's going to run out of talented options (which there seems to be less of), and I don't want to see him settle for lesser designers (which there seems to be an eff-ton of), so I wouldn't object to hiring Haider permanently. But, hey, a gurl can dream..

Also, did anybody else enjoy the footage of the attendees as well? So silly, but I know I did.

 

[avonlea002]

Is it really the pictures though? just tried this on a third device and still went like.. hell no. But I've admittedly never been a JPG or Haider fan so..

To be honest after going through the pictures multiple times I don't find this collection to be that great. It feels very low budget. The choice of fabrics is rather questionable.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

He knocked of Jurgi Persoons.

 

[MulletProof]

^ that's just so embarrassing I kind of feel bad and wish you had never posted that . So so literal. Why do people still do that in this time and age?! there's a thing called the internet and people with memory. At least go rip off the work of someone from some random fashion school in Vladivostok, everyone knows Jurgi (I hope!).

 

[Deleted member 7575]

^ that's just so embarrassing I kind of feel bad and wish you had never posted that . So so literal. Why do people still do that in this time and age?! there's a thing called the internet and people with memory. At least go rip off the work of someone from some random fashion school in Vladivostok, everyone knows Jurgi (I hope!).

Yeah it's very lame and very disrespectful to JPG.

What a fool.

 

[WAVES]

it was gorgeous from beginning to end. what a pleasure to watch. the soundtrack was on point with the collection and the ending was incredibly sweet.

THIS IS HAUTE COUTURE.

I could see him more at Givenchy then Chanel. hopefully, this collection and it’s well deserved praise will make the suits consider him to a blue chip brand.

 

[mepps]

The breathless enthusiasm for this collection is sending me.
It's definitely not bad, and there are indeed some great looks, but Gaultier had better collabs imo.
This was Haider doing Haider.

 

[jeanclaude]

He knocked of Jurgi Persoons.

View attachment 1224508 View attachment 1224509

OMG!! Shameful!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

He knocked of Jurgi Persoons.

View attachment 1224508 View attachment 1224509

Well this definitely adds a sour note to the collection. Even worse because Persoons' is far better in terms of sensuality, feels more genuine and not as calculated.

 

[Drusilla_]

I was looking forward to this and Haider delivered - better than a lot of what got presented this week, and neither boring nor gimmicky, also it was my favourite of the JPG couture collaborations so far. sadly the apparent knockoff puts a bum note on it. Still my favourite of couture week so far, but not perfect.

 

[Drusilla_]

^^^ These are such lesser fashion days, that's why.



Sadly, these are the types that only know Gaultier with the tattoo-prints and corsetry. And unfortunately, what is deemed as high style these days of the SM/influencer era, look no further than the recent story “The Story Of A Great Outfit” in American Bazaar. The accompanying scrapbook pics of the most desperately-seeking-attention clowns all vying to outdo Bruno/Zoolander/Edina Monsoon is hilariously tragic of what is admired as “style” nowadays: Literal clownwear with all the thought and sophistication of what a 5yo would wrangle together. Glenn has talent, but he’s by far the weakest of all the collaborators.

You know, the Couture clientele are of a certain height/build/age, not to mention from a more reserved, conservative environment. It’s understandable that they would gravitate towards a certain aesthetic. And a talent like Haider— much like Gaultier (and Galliano, McQueen, Theyskens) understand this more than any lesser, and are able to conjure the classic alongside the modern into something exquisite. That’s the true test if Couture— not anything goes. And Haider being the classic side of Gaultier— while Olivier Rousteing was the more pop side, represented the duality of Gaultier extremely well. I’ll gladly take the conservative clientele anytime, anyday, anywhere.

That's just the thing - couture as extravagant marketing vehicle to sell perfumes, lipstick and scarves etc by putting them under the umbrella of glamour vs couture to serve its original stated purpose - custom fitted and handmade outfits for actual women, several of whom want perfectly ordinary-looking clothes and not the wildest flights of fancy.

There's a decent area of balance between the two, but in this 'fashion as another form of entertainment' era, it's no surprise that most social media fashion commentators prefer things to be loud and obvious, like the clothes are the fashion version of a Marvel superhero film or Top Gun.

 

[Nomar]

What a stunning and clean collection. Nobody cuts a suit quite like Haider. How he has been missed!

 

[tourbillions]

I get that its almost an ode to different couturiers that jpg looked up to. Usually Haider has such a strong vision, and he lost it here. Theres a few great looks but the collection has no identity.