Jean Paul Gaultier’s backdrop of languorous young men stretched out for massage in the terra cotta red of a Moroccan hammam immediately suggested two things: the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent and a themed show. Yet, despite the YSL references of laced safari tops and the North African colors, this was more than a rerun — and more varied and deeply thought out than recent Gaultier menswear shows.
The idea was to express the nobility of ethnic clothing, whether it was a loose djellaba shirt, copped off around the hips and worn under a suit; or those sandy desert colors going with the flow, without ever descending into folklore. The shoes alone — half backless brogue and half Moroccan slipper — reflected a current trend; as did paint-splashed pants and a half-moon top, baring the midriff. They proved that, even if Mr. Gaultier sticks stubbornly to show themes, he is still right on target for current fashion.