Jil Sander F/W 14.15 Milan

[LANZO_358]

I found the jackets and the footwear absolutely beautiful. There's a nemoral element to the pieces which seems in sync with a few other collections I've seen so far (trend?).

I have to agree though that some of the separates - more so the dresses and skirts - were uninspiring and ill-fitting. I almost wished there were more jackets to cover them up. It also lacked emotion, seemed almost mechanic.

 

[Littleathquakes]

I need a prozac after looking at this.

 

[ogepma]

I think this is a great collection. The design team have managed to - just like with the latest menswear show - create what is arguably the brands best post-Raf Simons collection although this is something I would associate more with Jil herself. I wonder if she had anything at all to do with this. I really loved the color palette, the cut of many of those jackets and the shoes. Of course it is in no way a collection that will be remembered in years to come but it's still a very good effort considering the current situation. I wonder when they'd announce a new creative director.

 

[vandekamp]

The clothes designed by Jil Sander herself were phenomenal; unique genius I have never seen before in clothing. The cut I am sure you can't find anywhere else.

Agreed. This is OK, but better than Jil's designs??? To each their own I suppose........

so much better than anything jil did

In what way?

 

[Scott]

The clothes designed by Jil Sander herself were phenomenal; unique genius I have never seen before in clothing. The cut I am sure you can't find anywhere else.

it's also worth noting too that this was also based upon a very brief period of two collections for men and women after about 10 years away and those first two being rather immediate. there simply isn't much reference unless you count her seamlessly pure archives which i hope no one is speaking of in such a tone. otherwise i'd seriously suggest studying her past work a bit more closely than that. but there are a lot of "could haves" about jil's return that we didn't get the chance to look forward to,but for what she did do in this lone year,it was magnificent.

i don't necessarily dislike this collection though…i do appreciate the team for at least trying to retain that essence of purity and those little subtle details known with jil's aesthetic. it isn't as seamless as one would expect from jil but i do think there's a lot in it that you can see they've taken away from designing with jil. you know,i think it's very hard when you've sort of had the rug pulled from beneath you while in the middle of working on these collections and i think the team has handled it pretty well so far.

 

[gazebo]

 

[Phuel]

i don't necessarily dislike this collection though…i do appreciate the team for at least trying to retain that essence of purity and those little subtle details known with jil's aesthetic. it isn't as seamless as one would expect from jil but i do think there's a lot in it that you can see they've taken away from designing with jil. you know,i think it's very hard when you've sort of had the rug pulled from beneath you while in the middle of working on these collections and i think the team has handled it pretty well so far.

I agree Scott.

There are no radical departures, nor any innovations here. Understandably. I think the design team is just waiting for the inevitable replacement to take the reign any time now. I think it was a very wise direction of the label to keep it non-descript enough, but still recognizably true to the Jil Sander aesthetic. Jil devotees may easily incorporate these Jil-less collections into their Jil-designed ones seamlessly, and buyers can rejoice at the clean and sleek lines that will sell to non-Jil fans. So, at least the momentum isn't lost-- even if there doesn't seem to feel like any evolution; that's the job of the faceless design team in the absence of a star lead, isn't it? Still hoping for Jil's return, in some form... I just don't think anyone can elevate the Jil Sander label the way that only Jil can, no matter how thoughtful, faithful, or disciplined. Jil's always remained such a fiercely individualist and stubbornly anti-fashion.

Jil and Helmut remain my favorite designers by far. I've understood from the beginning that many see their designs as the antithesis of high fashion since they never gave into the pageantry, theatrics and loud statement-making characteristics most enjoy of high fashion. I related to that aesthetic since I never wanted strangers on the street to notice me as a "fashion statement". And their brand of designs were exactly that to me: Clothes that felt, and, looked confident and unique, and made the wearer look better as an individual, rather than be overpowered by their clothes for everyone to know they're wearing "fashion". I see that with this collection. So job well done to the team. (As stated by some, some of the seam and dart placements seam questionable, but it's hard to have a final conclusion of a collection when you're only looking at pics on the interweb.)