Lanvin F/W 2020.21 Paris

Frustratingly literal in its 60s references, styling, hair and makeup even though there are great pieces; I especially love the slightly bell sleeved pantsuits and most of the mens tailoring. But this whole collection could benefit from a lighter, much more modern styling! I get that he was trying to build a whole world à la Gucci but the entire thing just made the collection look dated to me.
 
I want to like this collection because it feels less costumy than his previous collection but I still have difficulties to picture anyone wearing this Lanvin.

The styling is quite off. I don't manage to pinpoint what bugs me maybe reading other tfs members' opinions will help.
 
I needed to watch the video to really figure this out and I think it’s a hit!
First of all, The Pencil Chat bag is the best bag of the season so far.

I think that with this collection, he really found the right balance for Lanvin. It’s very accessible, quite precious and very chic. For the first time in a longtime, Lanvin feels special.

Alber had such a signature. He had his way of doing dresses, jackets, pants...etc. The finishing of his clothes made them very recognizable. That’s why even when he did very minimal collections, it was easily identifiable.

Bruno doesn’t have that signature but the color palette and the allure are credible when attached to the name Lanvin. Lapidus and Jarrar pushed away the sophisticated clientele for a more casual allure and I like that Sialelli embraces that in his own way. Even if the Bouffant hair is comical, it works and the cast is great.

There are obvious references to Lanvin by Montana and Alber and I think it’s very clever because that’s what people remember from Lanvin.

I love the very films noirs vibe, it’s quite Isabelle Huppert, Stephane Audran kind of sophistication. It’s an approachable beauty. Those clothes are just simply beautiful. I’m obsessed with the blue coat with the puffy sleeves with the matching mini dress, I love the 3 last looks. I also love the look on Immaan! And the variations on the SS2008 collection are fabulous because you got the reference but it’s quite different. And those aren’t the type of clothes we see a lot today. So, it stand out!
It’s like what Vaccarello did! The silhouette is very familiar but you don’t see a red tartan double breasted jacket with a velvet collar and gold buttons everywhere...Much like you don’t see a lot of glamorous dresses in chiffon or a burgundy leather cape.

If he continue like that, Lanvin is in good hands. Something is finally happening there!
 
I just went to an eye doctor and then washed my eyes too, because I could not believe that I see a really good Lanvin collection after all this mess! Yes, Lanvin, go! So beautiful! A little bit too Prada meets Loewe, but still a really nice direction!
 
I'm happy to see that finally Sailelli managed to put all the too blatant Loewe references behind and start building a new blueprint for what Lanvin is going to be.
It just struck me that there's a predominance of very structured looks in this collection, whereas the house is mostly known for flou techniques and a very breezy approach to tailoring.
 
Best collection but it looks a bit too wearable to the point of boring for me.
 
Pleasantly surprised! And indeed that bag is probably going to be a hit.
 
Zero complaints here, thoroughly enjoyed looking at this collection, think it's sophisticated and very elegant. The styling is fabulous, love love love the blown out hair and makeup. Bruno Sialelli most definitely done Lanvin justice here!
 
The same complain I had with Fendi last week.

Is it chic? Is it quite beautiful? Does it speak about the new luxury wave we are waiting for? Obviously the answer is yes. But that's it. Just 60 looks of pretty and boring clothes. I can't remember one single look.
His color palette is so shy. Everything looks so restrained, so calculated. I wish him made more mistakes.
 
Stunning... This felt like Lanvin in the traditional sense ...I LOVE the Emerald Green & this color palette is amazing...Also a Great Cast ...My only qualm is the styling is a bit too old school & heavy for my taste, but i really like this collection regardless...I got a sense of Luxuriousness at this show ....
 
The menswear doesn't feel as strong. Ossendrijver's collections were really memorable. The womenswear is really good and beautiful.
 
The menswear gets lost in these coed shows. He should really separate them.

Gorgeous collection - no real complaints. Just wish the models were instructed to walk with a little more presence or energy. These clothes would look better without the zombie flaneur walk.
 
I gotta say....it’s kind of weird...in a not so terrible way.

There are still flaws, but it’s nice to see him push through his Loewe ticks and think a bit differently.

I kind of like the kitsch hair and makeup (although, as RedSmokeRise mentioned, as stronger, more alluring cast would have helped) and I like a lot of the accessories...as others have mentioned, the leather take-out bag is cute, and I love some of the shoes.

There are some good clothes, too. I don’t love the more cartoonish, colorblock pieces as much.

Overall, though, my impression is that this would have been a good collection for Schiaparelli. I still don’t think he’s nailed what Lanvin should mean post-Alber, yet.
 
It's starting to look like something but it's still not desirable. The overall is always sad.
 

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