Lanvin S/S 05 Paris

[Acid]

Lena, this is so YOUR label

 

[Spike413]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 12 2004, 02:57 AM
i really dont share the critisism regarding ysl, christobal balenciaga etc.

the Fortuny connection is there , but i certainly dont see this as a bad thing, not at all (much more since its a highly artisanal , handmade technique)

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I agree, those Grecian pleated pieces were the only few that I liked.

 

[kimair]

review from wwd:

Anyone who is searching out that elusive Parisian je ne sais quoi need look no further than the house of Lanvin. Alber Elbaz knows what, and if he could bottle the esprit of his exquisite spring collection, he’d be a gazillionaire. Jeanne Lanvin, the label’s namesake, did just that in 1925, when she launched her first perfume, My Sin. But while he plays off the moody sophistication of that heritage, Elbaz also does clothes there that are thoroughly his own. They’re of the moment, but full of character, like clothes with a backstory.

Elbaz’s main message was one of pumped-up volume, and though inflating their cuts is the way other designers have pushed the boundaries and been burned, with a little pouf here and a little puff there, Elbaz’s vision looked tantalizing. On top, he proposed a featherweight mock parka or a jacket cinched at the waist. Meanwhile, he tinkered with a variety of ample skirt silhouettes — from full circle skirts to those shaped like an upside-down champagne flute — because there are a multitude of ways to dress beautifully chez Lanvin. The original Lanvin once described her craft as a way to “contribute to the spell of femininity.” Come spring, Elbaz’s devoted clientele are sure to think they’ve died and gone to party-dress heaven. His were some of the best of the week, and included intricately sculpted, pleated dresses perfect for any goddess in training and those done in a loose, vaguely Twenties style.

Throughout it all, Elbaz maintained the luxe, the romance and the mysterious chic he’s brought to the brand. Madame Jeanne would have been proud.

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by Acid@Oct 12 2004, 01:18 PM
Lena, this is so YOUR label

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absolutely

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 12 2004, 02:57 AM
i really dont share the critisism regarding ysl, christobal balenciaga etc.

the Fortuny connection is there , but i certainly dont see this as a bad thing, not at all (much more since its a highly artisanal , handmade technique)

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who says it's a criticism...just my own observation...
and i see it very clearly...but i still like it...

those are all of my favorite designers from the past...only i wish he had channeled halston instead of fortuny...because i like halston's grecian inspired stuff a bit better for me...it was more sensual than fortuny...
imho...

 

[LibertyRose]

The collection is very cohesive and fits what I've come to expect from Lanvin (much better than FW04 but not on par with SS04)--quietly elegant, why-shout-when-you-can-whisper, classy, and confident. It is a nice combination of Alberta Ferretti's relentless femininity and Jil Sander's airiness (the first exit in fuschia reminds me of Jil) plus Alber's own masterful commend of color. However, the show could benefit from tighter editing--Alber's singular Seamless SS04 collection used mere 24 exits.

Thanks softgrey for pointing out the Balenciaga and YSL influences--how enlightening! But I don't agree that Yasmin Warsome's outfit is YSL, and I think Pilati's collection was a snoozer even though it succeeded in breaking away from Tom Fordism (so I guess Ford really did design the past YSL collections on his own huh??? ).

I myself sensed some Prada-ism. I think Miuccia's "Tourist Chic" SS04 collection was very influential and launched a thousand circle skirts the following year, even though I didn't find that collection, or any of Prada's recent critical hits, to be particularly good myself. Was it even a commercial hit? I thought the star garments from that collection are the ombre dresses (thanks to Scarlett Johansson) and cardigans (which Prada refined in the subsequent collection). The Venice-print bags and shows are absolutely lovely (my fave from the season), but barely visible.

From Prada:

And these dresses won't look on "real" bodies:

 

[LibertyRose]

But I think this will make my Top 5 for FW04. I'm glad Lanvin finally showed gowns--such stunners!

 

[asta]

watching the runway video makes me adore this collection. it really reminds me of hemingway.

 

[datura001]

Beautiful movement. These are pieces that beg to be held. I turned dresses from the current season inside out and upside down (as I do with the McQueen pieces) much to the amusement (and horror) of the sales ladies at Barneys. I liked how the design seemed effortless and removed from the need to reinvent the wheel. He simply used the elements of dressmaking, declassifying shapes, moods, and styles, placing them within the realms of tradition and craft instead of with one designer or another.

 

[Lena]

Julie Gilhart of Barneys New York popped into the Lanvin boutique late last week, and — lo and behold — designer Alber Elbaz was on the sales floor helping a gaggle of women, including some out-of-town editors, with their selections. “I was shocked,” Gilhart said. “It’s amazing. What other designer, right before their show, is in their store? And then he does the windows and merchandises, too.”

from wwd

 

[AlexN]

That is sooooo awesome. Thanks, Lena. How amazing would it be to see him setting up the windows? I mean, come on...

 

[Lena]

i would had fainted.. and his window instalations are to die for

btw, you are very welcome AlexN

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 18 2004, 12:52 AM


from wwd

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thx lena...very sweet...

 

[Lena]

softie, are you in Paris? dont miss checking the Lanvin windows and if you do please , do tell

 

[softgrey]

will be in paris on the weekend and will report back...promise...

 

[Lena]

thats great, thanks in advance and make sure you have a great time softie : )

 

[softgrey]

thanks lena...i know you'll be with me in spirit...

 

[Meg]

gah softie, how come I didn't know you were oversea's?! Anyway, after seeing the video on style.com of this collection it becomes even more beautiful. It has such great fluidity while maintaining shape. really breathtaking

 

[softgrey]

i'm in london meg...and i've brought you all with me in my hard drive...

actually i was in JOSEPH yesterday and they had a nice selection of lanvin...there was a blk satin blouse with detachable french cuffs and a completely detached collar in white...with a frayed bow tied at the neck and frayed pleats down the front...

GORGEOUS...

 

[Meg]

I didn't know Joseph carried Lanvin....