With Édith Piaf - that most visceral of Parisian singers - on the soundtrack and fashion channeled from every species of bird feather, animal pattern, reptile skin and ethnic inspiration, the Louis Vuitton show made a bold statement at the Paris summer 2009 collections Sunday.
Later in the closing day of the season, Lanvin used strong color on dresses, caressing the body to re-activate fashion desire.
"It's not Africa, it's not anywhere - it's all about Paris," said the Louis Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs backstage, although you could have knocked down with a parakeet green feathered skirt most of the audience, who saw tribal diversity in the totems on shoes, in the carved wooden earrings, in the bags with leopard spots melded with the house logos and in the plumes of a brief dress.
Maybe Piaf's soulful French spirit melded with Josephine Baker's innocent Africana in the fertile mind of Jacobs. But whatever his inspirations, this was a cracking good show, which caught the season's African vibe and produced for Vuitton not just stunning accessories - each in a similar spirit but totally individual. It also created a wardrobe of classic-and-more clothes, bringing back soft, easy pants, marked with polka dots, while the abandoned jacket had many new incarnations.
At the end of a week in which fashion direction had seemed as unstable as the economy, Jacobs caught in these clothes a bravura and joie de vivre. Sure the skirts were ultrashort, the better to show off the walk-tall sandals with their fantastical decoration. This was a rosy, optimistic view of dressing, with a hint of the Folies Bergère to add showgirl fun and to tint colors from metallic purple to grass green and orange. Let's just call Jacobs's stellar effort to make fashion feel good and to make sense after four weeks of turbulence "La Vie en Rose."