Louis Vuitton S/S 2015 Paris

[eizhowa]

If the 90s were anything like those red velour trousers, then I am starting to think I really missed out the first time around. I could totally pull those off.

And those boots are the perfect shape.

 

[gossiping]

gorgeous!

shame that he had to use those velvets, the pants are unflattering though

but apart from that the shoes especially omg!

 

[Morphe]

Holy Satan, no!

 

[Fiercification]

Very hit and miss. Clearly Ghesquiere is attempting to distance himself from the overt modernism of Balenciaga, swapping it for a distinct femininity.

My favourite looks are the black dresses at the end; gorgeous! On the opposite end of the scale, the softer white lace dresses were beautiful. Unfortunately a lot of drivel in the middle including some Sweetface-esque realness!

 

[lemeray]

^ Exactly.

I love what he's doing for LV. He's making a very distinct look for the brand. I don't think anyone should expect him to do what he did at Balenciaga, which was very architectural and structural. And that's what Balenciaga was about. To me he is trying to make the LV girl very Parisian.

Though I hate the tailoring and shape of the pants. And I like the velour!

 

[nita-karoliina]

I love it love it love it!!!

 

[Frida]

By Suzy Menkes.

The futuristic, Frank Gehry-designed structure seemed to float like a boat against the blue sky of the Bois de Boulogne. This is the new Fondation Louis Vuitton, which was the exceptional venue for Vuitton's spring/summer 2015 fashion show. This view of the Fondation, which is a centre dedicated to modern and contemporary art that Bernard Arnault will open to the public on October 27, was more than a sensational architectural vision. It was also the backdrop for designer Nicolas Ghesquière's second show for the house.

Would it drive the designer to a modernist flourish - something as extraordinary as the set of lights that bathed the dark room where the presentation was held, as if mirroring the cascading water outside? The tension built until the show started, with LED holograms of models' faces. Speaking in digital unison, they listed the 3,600 glass panels and 15 thousand tons of steel used to create the structure in which we now sat.

Then what? The Sound of Silence - summoning up the Simon & Garfunkel years, and on the runway, the reincarnation of Edie Sedgwick, who lived a wild Andy Warhol life in the Sixties and died in 1971, the year Ghesquière was born.

What followed were casual outfits, from lacy dresses with clerical collars and the texture of macramé, to denim printed with retro illustrations of hairdryers, eyelash curlers and cadillacs. And a velvet underground of tops and trousers in rich patterns. All were excellently executed and dynamic in detail. And almost every model carried a bag. "I wasn't looking for a big break from my last season, I want to define my cool girl," said Ghesquière.

He certainly knows how to catch the look of the moment: perfectly cut trousers, seemingly simple separates made to perfection in sumptuous fabrics, boots of differing heights. And the bags, which exuded desirability. It was easy to spot the handbag winner: a purse in rippled grainy cowhide with a squishy corner, as displayed by Delphine Arnault, Vuitton's executive vice president.

It is unfair to both the label and its designer of two seasons to harken back to the latter's Balenciaga years, where Ghesquière spent half of his 15-year fashion life before appearing front of stage. Since he was looking back to the Seventies and Eighties, I thought about an earlier Balenciaga collection, inspired by Jules Verne's Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, when a tiny team put together the entire event. And the more recent, perverse exploration of work clothes, shown in a futuristic office from the Seventies.

At Vuitton, Ghesquière has a dream position as the creative lead of a brand whose focus is leather goods, but whose mission is to bring dynamism into clothing, just as his predecessor Marc Jacobs did before him - sometimes with too much gusto. There was plenty to like at the spring/summer 2015 show, but nothing twisted or crazy or compelling. But customers are sure to love it all - which is a positive. It is tough to jump into a role in the public eye. And who knows how the collection would have looked if the clothes had not been in competition with one of the world's great architects and his compelling creation.

Vogue.co.uk

 

[Signature10]

Suzy agrees with me or rather I agree with every word in the way it is written and analysed . Still a better collection than many that got rave reviews.

 

[bbofbalenciaga]

some bags are boring, some are Chanel-ish, but some are gonna sell like baguettes. i love this bag; i think this one is gonna work, too - and i love the outfit. it is classic form of lv bowling bag, with the 70s kitsch print. i'm sad he has to make so many bags. some girls don't need them. and i dont recall seeing a lot of bags at his time in Balenciaga. btw, who does the bag ? is there someone who is helping create something ?

Darren Spaziani was named brand´s accessory designer just before Ghequiere got in...but i don´t know if they work together.

Camille Miceli is doing the jewllery.

 

[educo]

This is gonna be a slow and steady burn from Ghesquiere. I never thought of him as a 0-60 type of designer, coming out guns blazing. I was guilty in thinking that he was gonna continue his work at Balenciaga. My instincts say he WILL rely on his formula to create an undeniable identity for Vuitton like he did at Balenciaga, but he's gonna work hard to make sure the Vuitton woman and the Balenciaga woman are NOT confused. I like this softer, more approachable statement from him right now.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I can't say I'm a big fan of his work in recent years, neither at Vuitton or even some of his last few collections at Balenciaga. There was this pragmatic, streamlined hand to his work in the first decade of the 2000s that I think is still the brightest part of his artistic repertoire in total (and that ALL of his past assistants, from Julien Dossena to Alistair Carr and also Bouchra Jarrar are building upon these days). That sense of restraint he eventually dropped, not only for Vuitton but even in the past 3 years or so at Balenciaga. For some reason, these clothes seem way more 'branded' and reliant on a lot of little details screaming 'look at me, this is design', like the constrasting topstitches, the exaggerated big zipper pulls and outsized prints he used in his cruise collection. Those kind of things are probably good stuff to give the clothes a very seasonal now-ness that appeals greatly to editors in photo shoots but will make the clothes eventually look somewhat dated eventually and even come up as a little 'show-off'.

Taking into account how much we have seen his past two collections already worn by the fashion set and in magazines, we will know these looks inside out already well before the clothes will be delivered to the stores or by the time his next pre collection will be shown. I don't necessarily see that as a very good thing, for a house that prides itself as being on the very top tier of exclusivity.

 

[Creative]

I absolutely hated the show. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. It was impossible to accept that the most talented designer in the world would do something like that for a brand such as Vuitton, whose budget is endless.

Everything was just plain ugly or just ‘normal’. I don’t have any doubt (or I want to believe) that the amount of research in terms of fabrics and the artistry involved are incredible, but the ‘look’ and the clothes of the collection were just beyond lacklustre.

All I saw were clothes. Simple clothes… Like in the Saint Laurent show. There was nothing challenging. There was nothing interesting. There is nothing that makes me want to see the collection again. The trousers were beyond ugly. The late 90’s look was so literal and bad done, like it went through no filter. The shoes were just plain and boring. No twists. Last season ankle boots were amazing, maybe the best thing of the whole show. This time around not even that could save it.

I know this is just his second outing for the house and that he’s trying to build the LV look, but there’s barely no fashion involved. No freedom, just plain clothes from a beyond restrained Nicolas Ghesquière whose only concern seems to be selling as much as possible. I understand that they are trying to build a strong rtw line for the brand, which LV never had… but this is not nice at all. These sellable clothes are what I could expect if he had launched his own brand by himself (and not even that), but the financial cushion he has is too big for such a lame presentation.

I thought the bad quality of his late Balenciaga collections was due to the tensions he had with Isabelle Guichot, but I now realize that he has lost his touch. I feel utterly disappointed. He used to be my saving grace.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

He should have saved the resort collection for spring because it was fabulous this however is a hot mess.

 

[XxpinktinksxX]

Good collection minus the velor pieces.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

Pretty bad collection, too many elements


I love this look

marieclaire.fr

 

[educo]

I can't say I'm a big fan of his work in recent years, neither at Vuitton or even some of his last few collections at Balenciaga. There was this pragmatic, streamlined hand to his work in the first decade of the 2000s that I think is still the brightest part of his artistic repertoire in total (and that ALL of his past assistants, from Julien Dossena to Alistair Carr and also Bouchra Jarrar are building upon these days). That sense of restraint he eventually dropped, not only for Vuitton but even in the past 3 years or so at Balenciaga. For some reason, these clothes seem way more 'branded' and reliant on a lot of little details screaming 'look at me, this is design', like the constrasting topstitches, the exaggerated big zipper pulls and outsized prints he used in his cruise collection. Those kind of things are probably good stuff to give the clothes a very seasonal now-ness that appeals greatly to editors in photo shoots but will make the clothes eventually look somewhat dated eventually and even come up as a little 'show-off'.

Taking into account how much we have seen his past two collections already worn by the fashion set and in magazines, we will know these looks inside out already well before the clothes will be delivered to the stores or by the time his next pre collection will be shown. I don't necessarily see that as a very good thing, for a house that prides itself as being on the very top tier of exclusivity.

I never considered LV to be on the top tier of exclusivity when their stores are practically tourist destinations (at least from what I've seen in New York). Also, I think Ghesquiere is smart for playing along with this "instant" image thing, because, while yes, it will undoubtedly get dated faster, it will sell the clothes.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I started watching the show with an open mind, but with an introduction like that about "moving through space while standing still" I immediately began to expect a collection a la Balenciaga circa 2009..
..I certainly wasn't thinking lace dresses, retro-print skirts and printed velvet trousers.

Again, wonderful separates, great jackets and dresses etc.
But Proenza Schouler made striped dresses entirely made out of eel skin a few seasons ago..
Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton is fashion now.
But.. the likes of Theyskens' Theory and Carven have been designing these silhouettes, for this customer for seasons.
Ghesquiere has just tapped into that, he has recognized that that is fashion going forward - he has realized that luxury isn't ballgowns and diamonds anymore, ballgowns and diamonds which are ten-a-penny on the endless red carpets.
What people don't realize is that true luxury is every day - a luxury life where everything around you is the best. That is who he is designing for - the young, wealthy but normal woman.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I never considered LV to be on the top tier of exclusivity when their stores are practically tourist destinations (at least from what I've seen in New York). Also, I think Ghesquiere is smart for playing along with this "instant" image thing, because, while yes, it will undoubtedly get dated faster, it will sell the clothes.

Vuitton has for a while now moved their eye away from the entry-priced monogram canvas bags and accessories towards the very top-tier level of luxury. And the ready-to-wear was (to my understanding) always similar in price point to that of Chanel - And yes, both houses are definitely tourist destinations, no matter what.

Nonetheless, I think that what a lot of these fashion houses are lacking is a level of discretion and exclusivity that you offer to the client who is really willing to spend the big bucks on clothes like that. There is a difference between the timeless and rather non-seasonal approach of Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent (which, at it's core comprises of it's best-selling permanent collection of streamlined leather jackets, classic tuxedo jackets and jeans) and the very recognizable, seasonal-looking fashions that Ghesquiere is designing for Vuitton - What desirability is there to buy a dress that you have seen a few months long before it's actual delivery to the stores by street style personas, socialites and editors - and even before you have seen it again just as many times in the magazines?

 

[Chanelcouture09]

His first three collections for Vuitton have all been marginally similar and his path at Vuitton is becoming mundane and predictable - he's never been a designer to shock but he has always been a designer to surprise and for him to become predictable is disappointing.

The fitted long sleeved knitted tops, the a-line thigh skimming skirts, ankle boots - almost 70's in its reference is all becoming a bit of a uniform for him for his start at Vuitton and the only innovation really are the leather goods and those are designed by Darren Spaziani.

 

[anlabe32]

I started watching the show with an open mind, but with an introduction like that about "moving through space while standing still" I immediately began to expect a collection a la Balenciaga circa 2009..
..I certainly wasn't thinking lace dresses, retro-print skirts and printed velvet trousers.

My thoughts as well.

Was expecting something minimal and futuristic, but no we got the same dated messy sh!t again.

So disappointing.