Louis Vuitton S/S 2015 Paris

...also, when you look at the clothes in detail (= his debut FW'14 collection on the racks), they appear frighteningly french-bourgeois and not cool and modern as the press would claim. The concept of using upholstery/handbag-making specific technique for garments does not work either, it adds a stiff, weighty hand to the clothes.

All in all, I am feeling quite disappointed with people like Hedi Slimane and Nicolas Ghesquiere being elevated to the houses they are designing for now. They have both been doing the most unremarkable work in their entire careers while the press is blowing up a hype, blinded by the huge cash injections that go into throwing huge runway spectacles that take away from the lazy design of the clothes.
 
Does anyone know if Pierre Hardy still collaborates on the design of the shoes as he did in Balenciaga? Because these monstrosities

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are light years away from what Nicolas showed for Balenciaga

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style.com
 
Again, wonderful separates, great jackets and dresses etc.
But Proenza Schouler made striped dresses entirely made out of eel skin a few seasons ago..
Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton is fashion now.
But.. the likes of Theyskens' Theory and Carven have been designing these silhouettes, for this customer for seasons.
Ghesquiere has just tapped into that, he has recognized that that is fashion going forward - he has realized that luxury isn't ballgowns and diamonds anymore, ballgowns and diamonds which are ten-a-penny on the endless red carpets.
What people don't realize is that true luxury is every day - a luxury life where everything around you is the best. That is who he is designing for - the young, wealthy but normal woman.

You couldn't have said it better. And I think Ghesquere and LV want to go to this direction too as he has as since the beginning of taking over the position.
 
Because these monstrosities are light years away from what Nicolas showed for Balenciaga

Those images sum up the whole story... I get goosebumps looking at those beyond amazing shoes from Balenciaga and ":blink: face" looking at the Vuitton ankle boots.

I don't believe he's trying to make clothes for normal women. Normal women have Altuzarra or Vuitton boutique collection. Ghesquière can't design for normal women. He's too talented for such a thing.

Plus, you can do normal clothes way better than he did this time around. Last season were basic but a little bit more interesting.
 
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...also, when you look at the clothes in detail (= his debut FW'14 collection on the racks), they appear frighteningly french-bourgeois and not cool and modern as the press would claim. The concept of using upholstery/handbag-making specific technique for garments does not work either, it adds a stiff, weighty hand to the clothes.
This is very true.

I've checked out the collection in stores, too - as I was very curious to see the pieces in person - and everything is incredibly stiff, heavy, boxy and the fabrics and colors looked and felt kind of...dare I say...cheap. I was really disappointed. For all the talk of desirability and that these are everyday clothes for women, I couldn't help but think if I were a woman, I certainly wouldn't want to wear anything from the Fall/Winter 2014 collection...a cardboard box would sooner be more comfortable. Everything was very belabored.

Whether you liked Marc Jacobs' work for LV or not, I cannot stress enough how impeccable his collections looked and felt in person. His finale show was one of the best collections I've ever seen (on runway and in person). The workmanship was staggering and yet the result was so unbelievable effortless and despite being beaded, spangled, fringed and embroidered, it couldn't have been lighter or more delicate. Truly fabulous.

Overall, I liked the "look" better of the Fall/Winter and the Resort collections so far from Nicolas. This particular collection feels disjointed and there seems to be no real message. What is this collection trying to say?

I know he's trying to make LV womenswear more accessible and "ready-to-wear," but judging my the heavy-handedness of the clothes in person, I have to say his efforts aren't paying off.
 
Just because this collection is signed by Nicolas Ghesquiere, people try to find qualities that don't even exist in the collection.

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refinery29

Is there any woman or living creature on this planet that is attracted by this silhouette ?
 
Vuitton has for a while now moved their eye away from the entry-priced monogram canvas bags and accessories towards the very top-tier level of luxury. And the ready-to-wear was (to my understanding) always similar in price point to that of Chanel - And yes, both houses are definitely tourist destinations, no matter what.

Nonetheless, I think that what a lot of these fashion houses are lacking is a level of discretion and exclusivity that you offer to the client who is really willing to spend the big bucks on clothes like that. There is a difference between the timeless and rather non-seasonal approach of Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent (which, at it's core comprises of it's best-selling permanent collection of streamlined leather jackets, classic tuxedo jackets and jeans) and the very recognizable, seasonal-looking fashions that Ghesquiere is designing for Vuitton - What desirability is there to buy a dress that you have seen a few months long before it's actual delivery to the stores by street style personas, socialites and editors - and even before you have seen it again just as many times in the magazines?

You're right about the desirability issue, and that's my biggest issue with these houses, or rather, the luxury industry in general.
 
Louis Vuitton Spring 2015 | “The Flow” by Juergen Teller








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