Maison Martin Margiela x H&M

[margielamike2004]

@PHEUL

I think the subject you're reaching upon....in consideration of what you do to your clothes and your style is......customization.

I'm VERY much into that concept, myself.

Considering that I do sew...I perform my own alterations...but I also will either add something to a garment...or remove it.

Some people would look upon customizing a piece...especially a designer piece...as destroying the garment..or killing it's original integrity.

I have an old Helmut Lang green parka-jacket with a white (fake) fur trim around the hood. During it's time of release...it was quite a popular item.

I took the parka jacket....and painted on the backside (with Elmer's glue)...the words "Nothing Is Real, Everything Is Permitted." I then took black diamond-dust and sprinkled it onto the glue. When everything dried...it gave the quote lots of sparle and glimmer....LOL

Someone on the street recognized the Helmut Land parka and saw what I had done it to. They said, I destroyed it.

To others, they thought it was brilliant....and made the piece "unique" in my own personal way.

As the saying goes...everything is always open to interpretation.

 

[pe77]

You're absolutely correct, Scott. The collection is a bit too idiosyncratic for standard H&M clientele.

I remember a few years ago, I was strolling through the H&M here in Boston...and I was wearing a pair of MM over-sized fold-over pants with an MM Aids T-shirt and the hair-necklace...and the peeps shopping there were snickering at me. I also had on a pair of 900 dollar Carpe Diem boots.

As I stepped outside...I smirked and said to myself....they must all assume I'm homeless, while what I'm wearing and what it cost me could feed a large family in a 3rd world country!! Jeesh...LOL

hahaha

but I'll say it obv isn't because it is almost completely sold out, I coundn't get my hands on that oversized jeans, and I checked it two days after openning.

and I completely agree with ur other posts, no need for quoting.

I wonder what is he thinking right now about all this hype.

 

[juzuxel]

I only just realized the shearling jacket isn't actually shearling, it's fake!

How can it be suede and yet be 70% polyester?

The inner part is actually suede. It looked GORGEOUS! One of the best pieces from the mens line. But its too bad they didn't use actual shearling fur only the suede glued with polyester mush...

 

[pen6693]

Michigan ave in Chicago had WAYYY too much!
The workers told me that they expected about 3,000 people to show up and only about 300 showed up. Literally 6 pieces of each thing was there and the associate told me they had way more in the stockroom. The accessories were all there too. Many shoes, jewelry, and bags for both women and men.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

Michigan ave in Chicago had WAYYY too much!
The workers told me that they expected about 3,000 people to show up and only about 300 showed up. Literally 6 pieces of each thing was there and the associate told me they had way more in the stockroom. The accessories were all there too. Many shoes, jewelry, and bags for both women and men.

Yikes.

Based on the past collaborations, does anyone know if the leftover merchandise goes on sale. Also, is the sale price dramatically low compared to the original price or just a small deduction?

 

[Jacque Marcel]

Visiting Vegas and there are tons of merchandise here. They have everything but the body suits, sneakers and candy bags. It looks untouched honestly.

 

[margielamike2004]

I do admire his womenswear immensely. His menswear is rather forgettable.

Martin's one-of-a-kind type designs I find interesting and covetable-- very charming, but not pretentious at all. And many of Martin's amazingly-structured pieces are deserving of their high prices, of course, I don't mean to give the impression his designs aren't deserving of designer pricing. I just mean that certain pieces; the fusion pieces, white-painted pieces... are very much about the spirit of sustainability, do-it-yourself, and individuality, that having it "already-made" for you-- comes off like an extreme caricatures of the fashion victim accoutrements, to me. It's like buying already ripped and shredded jeans for thousands of dollars. It's buying a false sense of individuality. It's the essence of phoneyness.

Now, I'm aware there are people who genuinely appreciate creativity, but aren't creative themselves, so they rely on others to help them express their love of being creative. But, it's still phoney to me. I can't sew to save my life, but I still alter designer pieces by adding something new to it with the help of a great tailor. I would respect someone so much more if they "infused" pieces themselves, making it their own. I can't help but think unless it has the MMM label on it, some people just won't wear it.

Strangely, I find the H&M versions of the fusion-pieces much less fashion-victim-y: They're inexpensive, more along the lines of a knock-off, just fun and not about a statement since they're mass-produced. It also turns Martin's concept and intentions for these pieces into a novelty, since I can't see anyone wearing them without getting bored of them quickly.

When Margiela presented the painted garments....it was very much along the lines of being within the Margiela esthetic.

I agree that the painted garments are very much DIY (obviously)....and also very "made for you" pieces. I do know that his painted garments are hand painted...but I also know that the garments that have been painted, are also baked in an oven, afterwards. No joke. I'm not sure if H&M repeated the same procedure.

Besides merely being painted....there is also a subtle MMM philosophy behind the painted pieces.

First, Margiela has always loved the history and age of garments. That can be seen in his reproduction series....and also to other collections where he re-worked vintage costumes from the 18th century in a prior collection.

Basically....by coating a garment with white paint (his signature color)...the underlying history of the garment has been erased. For instance...if a pair of blue jeans had been dirtied or stained by a prior owner... painting the garment white would more-or-less bring the garment back to it's "new and pristine" condition...very much like breathing a "new" life back into the garment. The new owner of the white painted garment could give the piece it's own history by being dirtied, and re-worn, again.

It's very much like starting something old, anew.

Much like erasing a garments prior history....being worn, dirtied, etc...and starting it's history all over again. The use of white paint was wisely chosen. White doesn't take very long to get dirty when worn.

Also...the paint has a tendency to unavoidably chip and flake-off with wear....especially within the creases and folds of the garment when worn. This painting process gives the garment a certain patina.

The process reminds me of a piece of furniture that has been painted....or coated with a veneer. Through time, age, and use...the varnish....or the paint on the wood...will scuff, show smudges, flake off in certain areas, etc. What can be seen is the "history" on the furniture from being used....also referred to as its "patina"....much like a pair of jeans, painted white.

As I stated....the painted pieces are incredibly DIY.....but I also think it was the concept of "renewal" Margiela was trying to demonstrate.

Although, I do own a few MMM pieces that have been painted a different color other than white, too.

 

[margielamike2004]

Without coming across as superior to anybody...or pretentious

I think the reason why I personally understand Margiela.....and the pieces within the H&M collection is b/c I understand the "history" of MMM.

I've been following him since the start of his career in 1989.

Which is one of the reasons why when I look through the look-book from H&M....I get the sense of nostalgia (history) from many of the pieces. I remember the time...and the concept Margiela had....behind every piece.

The H&M collaboration is very much like seeing a retrospective of Margiela's collections, through time.

Many people who are buying the Margiela pieces from H&M obviously appreciate them...but I'm not certain if they understand the philosophy and the commentary that Margiela was trying to make through those pieces he once made.

I don't think that anybody "needs" to understand a garment before they decide to purchase or wear a piece....there is nothing wrong with merely liking a garment and putting it on.

But....fashion is very much like art, in my opinion. Without using words....it's trying to say something to you...about life...about the world we live in. Basically, it's trying to tell you a story. About the past...the current state of affairs...and the future.

Many of the pieces Margiela made were based upon the outlook that we all are currently living in a very disposable society. We wear things...we buy things....and through time, boredom, and exhaustion...we merely throw something away. Something that once brought us joy....merely becomes garbage.

By taking things that were considered as junk....Margiela added or removed his own personal touch to what he made. He took something old...and made it new again.

That is just one Margiela philosophy to touch upon...but there are many others, too.

 

[honeycombchild]

Yikes.

Based on the past collaborations, does anyone know if the leftover merchandise goes on sale. Also, is the sale price dramatically low compared to the original price or just a small deduction?

It gets re-priced first, probably around three weeks after it launched. It wont look like any of the garments have gone into sale as they just change all barcodes with the new lower prices - I believe it's usually around 30% off original, but sometimes if the piece hasn't done too well it has been more like 50%. After being repriced for a while they'll drop into the sale. I reckon they'll be in sale by Christmas time personally.

Even Lanvin had some repricing and that almost entirely sold out, it's just to make sure it clears. There does seem to be more of Margiela left though. When Comme launched they had a lot left, so much in fact it got filtered out to hundreds of stores in little bits for them to work into their main departments, the same could happen here.

 

[lucy92]

Yikes.

Based on the past collaborations, does anyone know if the leftover merchandise goes on sale. Also, is the sale price dramatically low compared to the original price or just a small deduction?

it depends on what local store you have. in my store the designer items dont usually go on sale. (they havent since the stella mccartney collaboration) they ship the remaining stock to a NYC flagship store that has a lot more tourists and more foot traffic where the collection sells better. (the collection goes on sale there)

i'm not sure what they are going to do this time. they have a lot of stock all over the country.

the problem is i think not a lot of people planned to try to shop the collaboration due H&M orchestrating immediate sell outs with limited stock in the past. i think a lot of people like me dont bother waiting in line in the cold or getting their hopes up.

at least thats why i didnt plan on shopping the collection previously - because i figured it would sell out immediately - no use getting disappointed like i have in the past.

i only happened to stop by the store randomly to give it a chance.

 

[Castafura]

Sooo much stock left in London, seems that for the majority of the jackets - especially the leather - the size UK8 has been returned. All the dresses in various sizes in Oxford Circus

 

[Scott]

mike,you talking of nostalgia,this if anything it did for me,it inspired me to revisit my own memories and keepsakes. the silk scarf pieces are really what kind of drove that home since it was part of such an early period of the maison that i never got to experience but wish i had. it also kind of made me a little sad because it was just a reminder that we have no one who rebelled quite like him but had the intelligence and the substance like he did.

phuel,i dunno for me there was time when MMM's menswear was really quite lovely and covetable. it may not have been quite as ambitious as his women's(though during that period,who other than HL,yohji,comme,dries and raf were?) at the time but from its inception till around the time of joining diesel,there was some really good stuff. in fact that's where a lot of those fused tailored pieces transpired from.

to be honest,i don't think margiela himself gets enough credit for his skill and craft he conveyed. they see the conceptualist and that's it but the guy was masterful tailor,constructivist(as many are from antwerp).....and truth be told,no one cut a trouser as sharply as he did. even compared with dries who i adore implicitly. long story short,this guy could actually make clothes. going back to that substance thing,there was a wonderful balance between concept and realism with him.

 

[margielamike2004]

@SCOTT

You're very correct when you state that Margiela was (and still is, he isn't dead...LOL) a masterful tailor. As is John Galliano. When Galliano was a fashion student....NOBODY could cut fabric on the bias like he could. If you do some research on Galliano...many quotes about the subject will be found.

Margiela (like Galliano)...was one of the few fashion designers who actually understood the body. As you look through some of Margiela's early works...the proof is in the pudding.

Margiela understood "ergonomics"....the structure of the body. Many of the techniques in design we see now have become common-place.

The "sock sweater" is an example of my point.

Many of the pieces that the sweater is comprised of...and the shape of the socks...were strategically placed within the construction.

The round heel section of the sock was placed at the shoulder-line, the bust....and at the elbows. These are 3 parts of the body where the body's natural form, curves. The construction of the sweater has been designed to follow the body.

Also...within the construction of the "cigarette-sleeve" jacket.....darts and seams have been strategically placed.

When the jacket is placed onto a clothing hanger, you can see the natural curve of the sleeve, at the elbows.

With trousers, he placed darts at the knees...the section of the body where the leg, bends. He also constructed the leg of the trouser with a seam that slightly twists inwards towards the calves and ankles. This technique (with the help of the fabrics natural tendency to drape, from weight) makes the hem of the trouser lay upon the top of the foot, naturally.

Many years ago...when the Levi's Jeans company wanted to launch a new innovative series called "Engineered Garments"....Margiela and a few other designers were selected to (secretly) to design the collection. If you look at the Engineered collection from Levis, you will see tons of the techniques that were used to reform Levi's standard sewing techniques.

Another collection where his genius can be found is within the collection where standard garments have been reconstructed by placing holes and openings
where there were none, before.

http://fashionista.com/2012/10/here...iela-for-hm-collection/cq5dam-web-648-4864-2/.

Only a designer who understands the construction and the draping of fabric could imagine something as possible as that blue dress.

Trust me, within the fashion industry...there is no arguement that Margiela is a masterful craftsman.

 

[Phuel]

@PHEUL

I think the subject you're reaching upon....in consideration of what you do to your clothes and your style is......customization.

I'm VERY much into that concept, myself.

Considering that I do sew...I perform my own alterations...but I also will either add something to a garment...or remove it.

Some people would look upon customizing a piece...especially a designer piece...as destroying the garment..or killing it's original integrity.

I have an old Helmut Lang green parka-jacket with a white (fake) fur trim around the hood. During it's time of release...it was quite a popular item.

I took the parka jacket....and painted on the backside (with Elmer's glue)...the words "Nothing Is Real, Everything Is Permitted." I then took black diamond-dust and sprinkled it onto the glue. When everything dried...it gave the quote lots of sparle and glimmer....LOL

Someone on the street recognized the Helmut Land parka and saw what I had done it to. They said, I destroyed it.

To others, they thought it was brilliant....and made the piece "unique" in my own personal way.

As the saying goes...everything is always open to interpretation.

White-glue and glitter... that IS destroying that coat! And I know exactly the coat you're referring to. LOL

I think some people are surprised that one would "alter" or "customize" designer pieces because they take designers as the final authority in what to wear, how to wear it, so altering such a piece is going against someone who "knows" better than themselves. (Not to mention the suggestion of messing with something quite expensive.) So these H&M collaborations are really ideal for such customizations, especially if one buys them at a discount. I wonder if Diesel approached H&M with this collaboration rather than the other way around?

Thanks for the history on the white-painted pieces Mike. When I was in high school, I painted my jeans the way Helmut had. It's definitely not a simple process, I messed up a few good pairs of classic 501s before getting it right; it wasn't easy to get the consistency of the paint just right so that the denim remained flexible enough to be comfortable for wear, but still retained that much desired sheen on the fabric. DIY definitely takes time.

As for MMM men's-- maybe "forgettable" isn't the right word... It's just not my style. I'm not a fan of the 70s backstreet Parisian pimp look that I can pull together from the Salvation Army. I'm rather conservative in style, and prefer flattering cuts, immaculate construction and quality over extreme designs. Casual to me means classic selvedge denim and a plain tee.

 

[margielamike2004]

@PHEUL

Although my following post has nothing to do with H&M and Margiela...I want to add something about Helmut Lang.

Roughly 10 or more years ago...when the dirty-jeans craze was appearing in fashion...Helmut Lang was one of it's pioneers.

Aside from some of the garments that had been coated....he also had a series of jeans called "blow-torch denim."

Helmut Lang used a burning process on the surface of his jeans. He used a blow-torch, on the denim.

As you look at the jeans...they appear to be dirty, but in actuality...the jeans have been burned on the surface.

Other jean companies with lesser quality techniques use "dyes" to make their jeans look dirty. Through washing and fading...the jeans loose their "dirty character" look b/c the dye bleeds. Sometimes, hazardous dyes within some fabrics will actually destroy the material. The hazardous chemicals in the dye react to water when washed.

By burning the jeans permanently...they ALWAYS look dirty.

The only reference I can conjure is is the process much like toasting marsh-mellows. LOL. By placing the marsh-mellow a bit too close to the fire...it turns a golden brown...but....if you place the marsh-mellow too close....for too long?? Not good.

By using a blowtorch on the denim...it gives the fabric a golden-brown appearance...which could also be mistakenly looked upon as "dirty."

 

[margielamike2004]

@PHUEL....

Another tenchnique that Helmut Lang used that I will briefly mention....as far a his jeans.

He had a series of jeans that looked like they had been drip slashed with paint...much like a Jackson Pollock painting.

Instead of using paint to splash upon his jeans...Helmut Lang used melted rubber.

Paint has a tendency to fade and wash away from the fabric through time, and wear.

By using melted rubber.....the rubber is literally and permanently bonded to the fabric. The rubber doesn't wash away and fade through time, like actualy paint will.

 

[miu miu]

Oxford Circus has loads of stock left, at least clothes wise. There are some shoes left too. I even managed to try on the leggings in a 10 and am glad I got them in 8 online, they should fit perfectly but I'm still waiting for the delivery.

 

[lucy92]

Oxford Circus has loads of stock left, at least clothes wise. There are some shoes left too. I even managed to try on the leggings in a 10 and am glad I got them in 8 online, they should fit perfectly but I'm still waiting for the delivery.

arent you afraid the mirrored bits are going to fall off?

 

[miu miu]

arent you afraid the mirrored bits are going to fall off?

I am. There were already a few falling off where the hanger clips were but I guess that's understandable. I'm not gonna hang mine

Overall, they're pretty well made. I spent a few minutes in the fitting room thinking if I want them or not. I've decided to try on the size 8 that should come tomorrow and then decide.

I've bought too much stuff anyway, won't be disappointed if I decide to actually send them back at the end.

 

[softgrey]

I only just realized the shearling jacket isn't actually shearling, it's fake!



How can it be suede and yet be 70% polyester?

simple...
it is ULTRAsuede...which is made from polyester fibres...