Marc Jacobs - Designer

The CD at Chanel will not "work on tweed".
Most of CDs nowadays can't even sew...
They give moodboards, inspirations... validate other people's work...
They sometimes design (sometimes!), like Karl drawing with his fingers burdened by heavy rings...

He is not going to Chanel and the nails have nothing to do with that.
The nails are probably not practical to touch on fabrics but I think with the money he has, he is able to do many manicures as he wants.
It’s not like we are living with him to judge if he has them everyday or just when he is in representation.

But you are right, a designer doesn’t have to sew. But he has to know how he wants his clothes to be constructed.
They all sew at some point anyway, even Chanel, before becoming Chanel was a little couturière as it was the norm back in the days.

Thank god knowing sewing is not a barometer because I’m not ready to put Christian Siriano in any list.
 
The most sucessful menswear designer right now is... Pharrell Williams?

That gives you an idea on how important the ABC of tailoring is in 2024.

I don't think they all sew at one point...
It depends on what the barometer of success is. If it’s only numbers, It will likely be Zegna, so Alessandro Sartori. If we judge by longevity (so enduring success), then it would be Veronique Nichanian.
I don’t know who is leading trends in menswear as it is still somehow in the same casual wave for quite sometimes.

But in reality, when I think of designers who likely never sew or constructed their clothes in any part of their career, I can think of maybe Schiaparelli, Sonia Rykiel, Miuccia Prada, Thierry Mugler. I wanted to say Dior but he was a modéliste so he realized the patronnage and I consider it the same.
So maybe not all all but when I think of trained designers, I can’t think of a lot who didn’t have a technical training.
Some did have a terrible training though.
 
I mean the finger nails. You guys are interpreting it correctly....

Marc is showing you he doesn't lift anything.
He doesnt do any manual labor.
He can have 7" inch nails because he hasn't had to pic anything up himself in 20 years.

That's what he's showing you. Nothing more than that.

Any relevance to the trend of long nails is a misunderstanding of Marc. He is telling you he is literally precious.
Such a poetic and sensitive gaze ❤️

And Lola, you are always so elegantly eloquent in your reasoning that you make it difficult not to agree with you ❤️

🥳
 
Might as well post the December 2024 Vogue US issue here for future reference.

US Vogue December 2024



"Role Play"
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Model: Kaia Gerber
Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington
Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Pat McGrath


Vogue US Digital Edition
 
US Vogue December 2024
"Letter from the Editors"
Photographer: Nick Newbold
Featuring: Anna Wintour, Marc Jacobs



US Vogue December 2024
"Nostalgia"
Featuring: Marc Jacobs



US Vogue December 2024
"The Get: Gift Marc"


Vogue US Digital Edition
 
US Vogue December 2024
"Gotta Dance!"
Photographers: Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin
Models: Amara Gisele, Amelia Gray, Angelina Kendall, Bibi Breslin, Charles Matadin, Chris Colvin, Dakota Moore, Lulu Tenney, Vivienne Rohner, José Lapaz Rodríguez
Fashion Editor: Alastair McKimm
Hair: Mustafa Yanaz
Makeup: Mark Carrasquillo


Vogue US Digital Edition
 
US Vogue December 2024
"Girl, Interrupted"
Photographer: Jason Schmidt
Subject: Anna Weyant, Kaia Gerber
Sittings Editor: Edward Bowleg III


Vogue US Digital Edition
 
US Vogue December 2024
"Home"
Photographer: Gregory Crewdson
Featuring: Marc Jacobs


Vogue US Digital Edition
 
US Vogue December 2024
"Blossoms Dearie"
Photographer: Stephen Shore
Florist: Ariel Dearie


Vogue US Digital Edition
 
US Vogue December 2024
"Impossible Beauty"
Photographer: Carlijn Jacobs
Models: Alex Consani, Anok Yai
Fashion Editor: Alastair McKimm
Hair: Jawara
Makeup: Yadim


Vogue US Digital Edition
 
US Vogue December 2024
"Heel Toe"
Photographer: Luis Alberto Rodriguez
Models: Kyra Coco, Cassandra Trenary
Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman
Hair: Sunny Molina
Makeup: Kuma


Vogue US Digital Edition
 
Might as well post the December 2024 Vogue US issue here for future reference.

US Vogue December 2024



"Role Play"
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Model: Kaia Gerber
Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington
Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Pat McGrath


Vogue US Digital Edition
It's just so deprived of any kind of real JOY. Everything feels like an empty exercise (from Marcs Design to Meisels Photography) without a goal. I remember Marc, especially in the early LV days, being alway about some kind of tongue-in-cheek madness through the lense of luxury. Like: What can I do with all these resoruces that I have at my hands? But with some kind of real end-product (like when he did little cashmere twin sets for his own main line that had pvc coated strips on them that looked like packing-tape). But who is THIS for? And who looks at these flat, lifeless images (a style, that Meisel did a much more appropriate time years ago with much greater success, in my opinion) and thinks - well, frankly, anything.
 
Not gonna lie tough, I kind of love this image.
that's the best image in the whole issue for me as well. He's talented, Gregory Crewdson. Having a real style compared to all the actual fashion photogs, with an analogue process. i'm actually super impressed he got to shoot that in Vogue.
 
It's simply revolutionary what Marc has accomplished here. After enduring years of Vogue's tragically pedestrian attempts at relevance... this is nothing short of a renaissance.

The artistic direction is world class, fit for Manhattan - absolute super refinement. Page after stunning page showcases what true high fashion should be. The composition, the interesting narratives...I love the clothes picked, I picked many out myself when they were shown on the runway and am happy to see them here.

I want to see Anna replaced by Marc now. I haven't bought a Vogue in a decade, actually looked for this one in the grocery store.

Every spread is a masterclass in sophistication that even the people who know nothing about fashion cannot help but recognize as high fashion.
 
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