LadyJunon
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That's the key difference between the designers of the 80s - early 00s era and today's designers.i agree, and i think it's important you included "derived" because ultimately these new sensibilities and the clothes they inspire merely try to imitate or replicate the greats, e.g. galliano and mcqueen. it's important that we create a distinction between what they did and what these new kids are doing, because they're entirely different. the new generation lacks the wit, nuance, and intellect that the masters had. even galliano's worst shows had an interesting context, each look with its own shades of layered meaning. there was a finesse and effortlessness that this generation sorely lacks. it may have been ostentatious at times, but it was always authentic, technically excellent, and very rarely, if ever, overwrought. nowadays, everyone wants to create instant faSHUN moments, and that's what's given rise to this increasingly draggy fashion climate. what these new kids fail to understand is that drag is, whether we like it or not, low culture. low culture can never truly be haute.
While those designers made obvious references (sometimes homages) to low/pop culture, those references were elevated by nods to old-world couturiers, historical garments and fine art and architecture.
They always pushed their boundaries and traveled beyond their immediate sociocultural circle, something a very heavy majority of new designers refuse to do.
Then, all of that is wrapped up in the pretty red ribbon of technical excellence, an indiscutable standard for high fashion.
Meanwhile, today's designers are content with creating expensive clothes for a "community", meaning that they'll have, at best, two or three promising seasons near the beginning before fading away into a caricature after they've gained an audience.
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