Lola701
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- Oct 27, 2014
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For me i have always in mind that idea of making the brand stronger on a long term vision. It’s about serving the brand rather than just pleasing the creative director…I think we can agree in hindsight that Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent re-branding was a success, not only from a commercial perspective but also given that the brand is still working to a large part with the holistic aesthetical concept of the brand, years after his departure. Only a few artistic directors can pull through such a project with as much hands-on input as he did and I think the results show that all aspects were created in unison and with equal dedication. When I look at - for example Raf Simons' tenure at Dior, the fact that his input did not touch upon the graphic design and retail spaces (Peter Marino's interiors were pretty much the antithesis to Raf's fashion) resulted in an inconsistent vision to the outside, much as if it was already foreshadowing his tenure there to be short lived.
I'd say Ferragamo belongs to the tier of brands whose potential remains largely untapped, much like Loewe, has been before JWA. If the vision this new guy extends to all other aspects of the brand, I think it makes sense he'd change the logo, too.
What Vaccarello is doing with the logo now was my fear when Hedi changed everything. If every creative director who takes a brand that kind of follow his/her sensibility and decides to change the logos and all, it’s going to be problematic.
But for me, it even goes beyond just the logos. It’s also about some products. I like to think that in the history of a brand, there’s more to the story than the creative director and the founder.
It’s always about long term for me. Galliano did very outrageous things at Dior that were far from the vision of the founder or the overall image of the house but, the logo remained unchanged and the store design was modern and classic. Karl never touched the Chanel logo, Margiela or Gaultier never touched the Hermes logo. It’s that thing to understand that you are part of a greater history.
Sometimes a change of logo is necessary but I also think that sometimes, it’s the duty of a creative director to get that the brand is bigger.
What will happen to Celine is the next creative director believes that his sensibility is closer to Phoebe than Hedi? Go back to the old logo?
And when we talk about Hedi. The problem is that not everybody is Hedi but as soon as someone gets a bit of responsability, he thinks he is Hedi. We saw that with Brioni and Justin O’Shea.
But we wait and see…