Miu Miu F/W 2023.24 Paris

In all fairness, Miu Miu is Miuccia's eponymous label she made, so her work at Miu Miu has always been purer to her sartorial ideals. Meanwhile Prada is the brand she inherited and has to act as the Louis Vuitton of the Prada Group. It's only more obvious now that Simons is Co-Artistic Director, allowing Miuccia to concentrate on her eponymous label.


I think that the main appeal of Miuccia's work is that it portrays a femininity that is neither super dark and moody or loud and extravagant like what her contemporaries were doing. Personally, I prefer Dries and Consuelo since they had that same look, but a bit more consistent in their execution.


Uhhh, Prada sold only trunks and imported goods when she inherited the business. She created ready-to-wear for Prada from scratch so it's all her regardless.
 
Uhhh, Prada sold only trunks and imported goods when she inherited the business. She created ready-to-wear for Prada from scratch so it's all her regardless.
So did Louis Vuitton with Marc Jacobs.

Miu Miu being Miuccia's creative outlet isn't news either. She stated this herself several times since the shows moved to Paris.

This quote perfectly states the difference between the two:
Designing for me is a very complex process. There are many ideas that I want to express in one object, very often contradictory. The creative process in Miu Miu is completely different from that of Prada. Miu Miu is not as complicated and thought out as Prada. Rather than being young, Miu Miu is immediate Prada is very sophisticated and considered; Miu Miu is much more naive. The solution, when I am working on Miu Miu, has to come immediately, instinctively, spontaneously with whatever is available at the moment. If I think three times, I stop.
 
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I love the layered jackets, cardigans and sheer skirts but I hate that it's going to be so logo-ed up, Miu Miu of all labels didn't need that.
 
So did Louis Vuitton with Marc Jacobs.

Miu Miu being Miuccia's creative outlet isn't news either. She stated this herself several times since the shows moved to Paris.

This quote perfectly states the difference between the two:

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons Talk Fashion, Art, Business — And Their Futures
Basically, what I do at Miu Miu is imagine what I would want to wear if I was young. At some point, maybe I went too far in these fantasies, but now in my work, I am interested in what you want to wear if you are a cool, sexy young woman. So it’s very easy for me. In menswear, I imagine myself as a man, and in Miu Miu as a young woman, and so on.
 
I love it a lot and I also hate it heaps. There were probably too many looks overall that didn't need to be repeated so much. A tighter edit would have helped, mainly to isolate things that are more shop floor/merch only that doesn't need to be seen so much.

The adamant use of logos also pisses me off. What a way to ruin those light sheer pieces. Lotta also needs to diversify her styling tricks because a good bunch of this feels too early Vetements in mood. So yeah, boredom is a good way to describe this despite there being some good looks and pieces.
 
Does anyone know how much Lotta Volkova is involved with the collection ? I am curious...

If she participating to the whole process or does she only come a few days to style before the show ? It seems the brand loves her. She even did an event in Japan where she selected her fav pieces !
IMG_1392.jpg

vogue.jp
 
Now that it's F/W 2023 season, I have to note that I revisit this collection quite often - both for my own personal styling inspiration and because I think the show itself is fun to rewatch. The colors and styling propositions are just fantastic. I think it's one of my favorite ever Miu Miu collections from the past 10 years, next to S/S 2015 - I love when Miuccia plays with her Diane Arbus, 60s-through-the-lens-of-John Waters tropes for Miu Miu. It kind of set the tone of the 60s revival that's coming up right now.

I wish Miu Miu wasn't so expensive (they are even more expensive than Celine for less quality) and oddly hard to purchase online in the U.S. - or else I would have loved to scoop the double monkstrap shoes and one of those menswear workwear jackets but those are all $5,000+ USD.
 

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