Miu Miu: It’s All in the Mix
October 03, 2004 - Milan
The ghost of Verner Panton breathed through the Miu Miu collection we saw Saturday evening in Milan, as did that of my older hippie sixties pals, Jackie Onassis and an Italian contessa who takes an English speaking poet as her lover.
“It’s all in the mix. Everything should be a little mixed up,” Miuccia Prada told FWD backstage after the presentation of the spring-summer 2005 collection of the Prada junior line, which like the lady’s signature collection is by far the most influential in its own age group.
Panton’s futuristic, dream-inspired graphics were all over this runway show; which mixed moments of sublimity with, we will have to admit, some oddly jarring notes.
However, one of the many reasons that Miuccia is the dominant designer of the moment is because she is never literal. She might appropriate seventies prints, but she pairs them with retro-futurist shades, flirty flared skirts, witty modernist multi-colored belts and buckles, and lady like silhouettes.
Suede floral patterns were ubiquitous: on shoe trim; used as bag straps and as embellishments for jackets. Sure they were thrift shop, but still visually provoking. Perhaps the best way to describe this collection was faux naïve, from the child-like desert projected on the sidewalls of the show-space to the bananas and apples that covered tops and tanks.
Like in her signature line, Miuccia whacked six inches of most hemlines, thus making life more onerous for the thousands of high street chains, department store secondary lines and southern Mediterranean whose season does not really begin until they can check out this her latest collection. Anyone who thoguth she would show knee-length like the last few seasons is in trouble.
Personally, one found the styling overly contrived. Let’s get down on our knees and pray that no customer actually buys any of the knit woolen hair-bands worn by most of the models. Pu…. lease…
Realistically, copyist will never be able to imitate the wonderful Miu Miu cooper, gold or violet silk coats with suede belts and dresses with beaded collars. That would demand far too much panache for a copyist. So, get the real things gals.
And, let us hope that some young Lotharios actually manage to get a date with a girl who turns up in the truly brilliant outfit in which Daria Werbowy ended the show. A moss green silk pencil skirt paired with a manly white shirt bearing just a few tiny drawings among which a Bardot like eye that seemed to wink. In a word, a perfect opening to a romantic rendezvous.