The Observer
Why racism stalked the London catwalk
Last week hundreds of models strutted before the crowds at London Fashion Week - but very few of them were black or Asian. Why don't the style parades in London, Paris and New York reflect the multiracial nature of the cities where they take place? Elizabeth Day reports
Katharine Hamnett does not believe the cliché that black never goes out of fashion. In recent years, the designer has seen a resurgence of white on the catwalks. But it is not the colour of the clothes she has noticed, so much as the colour of the models.
'The catwalks are full of white dogs,' she says, with barely concealed irritation. 'Cosmetic companies don't like black models - the racist b*tches. I have no idea why when it's obvious that black girls are just so genuinely much more beautiful than Caucasians, who have clearly got the short straw. Black girls have much better body shapes and it's such a shame. I just think there should be a bit more of a balance.'
While it is rare for a fashion insider to voice opinions so forcefully, Hamnett is not alone. Vivienne Westwood, the grande dame of British style, has in the past urged glossy magazines to adopt a quota system for ethnic minority models. And agent Carole White, co-founder of Premier Model Management, has admitted that finding work for black clients is harder than for white models. 'Sadly we're in the business where you stock your shelves with what sells. According to the magazines, black models don't sell. We have had casting briefs which say "no ethnics",' she says.
This month, Naomi Campbell said that she felt black models were being 'sidelined by major modelling agencies'. In the run-up to New York Fashion Week, Diane von Furstenberg, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, entreated members to stage 'truly multicultural' shows. Then, last Monday, on the first day of London Fashion Week, the 17-year-old model Jourdan Dunn voiced her concerns that Britain's racial make-up was not being fairly represented. 'London's not a white city,' she said, 'so why should our catwalks be so white?'
It is a moot point, given that London's ethnic minorities make up 29 per cent of an eight million-strong population. The largest ethnic group, accounting for around 800,000 people, is Afro-Caribbean. And what of the other fashion capitals of the world? In New York, 28 per cent of the city's 19 million inhabitants describe themselves as black. One Parisian in seven is of foreign nationality and the city is home to the majority of France's 1.4 million residents of African origin.
Yet these figures are not reflected in the fashion industry. The Jezebel style website found that of New York Fashion Week's 103 runway shows, there were 2,278 opportunities to feature a model on the catwalk and a black model was used only 298 times. Eighteen designers used no black models at all.
It is Thursday morning in London and the ballroom of Claridge's hotel is filled with the staccato clatter of Manolos on parquet floor. At the Luella fashion show the front row seats are filling up with spindly-legged, glossy-haired women wearing good accessories and harassed expressions. Kelly Osbourne is here, Lily Allen is backstage and Sophie Ellis Bextor is giving television interviews. As the lights go up and the models begin their teetering procession, there is not a single black face among them. In fact, the only ones are among the spectators. 'I'm not surprised,' says Reggie Ansah, the editor-in-chief of Luxure magazine. 'Vivienne Westwood is the only designer who really uses them [black models]. I think a lot of blame is to be put on the agencies: they don't promote black girls for the big jobs.'
Last week, Alexandra Shulman, the editor of British Vogue insisted that the number of black women featured in the magazine was 'absolutely on a par with the whole population'. Sarah Leon, the head of the women's division at Select model agency, is similarly unequivocal. 'Fashion is a business and these designers are highly competitive,' she says. 'When you're selling a product, you look at your core customer and you use advertising that you think will appeal to them.'
She points out that Select has several ethnic minority models on its books and was co-founded by Tandy Anderson, one of the most influential black women in fashion. Recently, the agency conducted a nationwide search for new ethnic faces, sending scouts to Manchester and Blackburn. 'To insist on quotas or positive discrimination, that just exacerbates it for me. It's a token message, rather than just getting on with it,' says Leon.
But according to Masoud Golsorkhi, the Iranian editor-in-chief of Tank fashion magazine, this is largely missing the point. He says it is 'self-evident that the industry as a whole could fairly be described' as racist. 'The major advertising campaigns that decide the commercial value of a girl hardly ever use black models, and that cascades through the industry,' he adds.
Golsorkhi cites The Observer's O occasional fashion supplement which he also oversees. From the hundreds of ad campaigns featured in the latest issue, only two - Vivienne Westwood and Ralph Lauren - use black women. 'I would love to change that but I feel constrained. Fashion is a heavily tiered system. A fashion editor of mine was styling a show at London Fashion Week and out of 150 girls sent to the casting, there were only three black models, one of whom made it into the show.'
For some dispassionate observers, there is an uncomfortable, unspoken subtext that black women do not sell as well because the fashion-buying public views beauty as traditionally white. According to Adenike Adenitire, the editor of the female supplement at the black weekly newspaper New Nation: 'White has always been seen as more dominant, more fashionable and more acceptable.
There are rumours that covers featuring Naomi Campbell do not sell as well as those with white models ('Although that could simply be because people don't like Naomi,' says one fashion journalist). On Forbes magazine's 2007 list of the top-earning 15 models, only one - the Ethiopian Liya Kebede - was black.
It was not always thus: Yves Saint Laurent famously pioneered the use of black models in his runway shows in the 1970s. The economic resurgence of Marks & Spencer over the past few years has been largely attributed to its highly successful advertising campaign, featuring the black French model Noémie Lenoir. When Harper's Bazaar put Kebede on its cover last year, it proved to be one of their best-selling issues - so much so that they are using her again for the front of their May issue. Part of the problem, it seems, is the inexplicably capricious nature of fashion - the stylistic looks that are deemed by designers to typify a certain era or a specific creative ethos. With the fall of the Iron Curtain and the opening up of the former Soviet states, the current vogue is for extremely skinny Eastern European models, with beanpole legs and anaemic faces. They reflect, perhaps, a new core client: the Russian oligarch's wife, with nouveau money to burn on Sloane Street.
Michael Herz, the half-Guyanese, half-British head of design at UK luxury label Aquascutum, says: 'Girls are there because they are beautiful and they are good at what they do. Whether or not they are black has nothing to do with it. I would be a bit pissed off having people telling me who I should use. I hate the idea of positive discrimination.'
Last week's Aquascutum catwalk show, incidentally, opened with Liya Kebede, and there are designers, such as the Lanvin artistic director Alber Elbaz, who make a point of using ethnic minority faces on the catwalk. But the majority of black models who have made it to the top of their profession - Campbell, Tyra Banks, Iman - embody a westernised ideal of beauty.
Although the Sudanese model Alek Wek is a notable exception, many agree with the comments made a few months ago by J. Alexander, a judge on the reality television programme America's Next Top Model. He complained in the New York Times that 'some people are not interested in the vision of the black girl unless they're doing a jungle theme and they can put her in a grass skirt and diamonds and hand her a spear.'
This season, it seems that white is indisputably the new black. Additional reporting by Alice Fisher