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Olivier Theyskens S/S 2021 Paris

This really is fantastic. There's a look for every occasion and as always his clothes are so unashamedly sexy.
 
Was Mylène Farmer the muse for this? The girl and the atmosphere is very Mylène Farmer...Of course, it’s in tune with Olivier’s aesthetic.

I’m not as in love with it as most of you are but I like it a lot. I feel like in this collection, there are two Olivier fighting. Of course the whole thing is cohesive but there’s the dramatic Olivier with the big gowns, the deep mood...Quite late 90’s to be honest. It’s beautifully done and evocative of a time we all like but it’s less interesting for me. I like the more urban, with more tension and sexuality Olivier! And for me the best thing about this collection are the looks with black pants and white blouses. It’s modern, fresh and timeless! It’s very commercial and it’s a result of his time at Theory but it’s executed with finesse!

For me the collection could have been done with the fabulous white dress! It’s really an amazing gown and the two looks before were strong too!

I think the black gowns, the gowns with strong shoulders, the velvet stuff are too heavy...The highlight of the collection is the flou! And it should have been all about that!
 
It's a nice collection, no doubt. I don't think it's very appropriate for this specific time, but then I look at other collections ATM and nothing is either.
 
Was Mylène Farmer the muse for this? The girl and the atmosphere is very Mylène Farmer...Of course, it’s in tune with Olivier’s aesthetic.

Yes! Mylène Farmer was this season's inspiration, explains the strange hair...
 
Well this is surely a collection that serves a bit of much-needed fantasy in times when everybody else took the opportunity this season to play it safe, I will give him that. The white floor length Flou dress is a stunner and it's a pity the back of the red velvet gown doesn't show in the lookbook because it's really quite beautifully draped. Some pieces, like the laced leather dress as well as the thigh-revealing bustier gown really give the impression a proper edit of ideas and silhouettes would have helped to elevate this collection and bring a proper message home - I expect that from a designer with as much proven talent as him.

I'm afraid the big question still remains where the Olivier Theyskens brand is headed towards in the future. There is next to no visibility of his actual clothes and the little that shops seem to order really isn't that exciting and frankly speaking, quite expensive at that.

I am still waiting for the day when he eventually gives commercial daywear clothes the same attention as his beloved eveningwear but I'm afraid this season's oversized blouses and suiting don't quite cut it for me.
 
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