Olivier Theyskens S/S 2022 Paris

[Pastry]

very much in the spirit of a more romantic Margiela’s debut

i wasn't going to say anything but seeing as how both margiela and casting are being mentioned...

i so agree with those who find the most recent line-ups of models at theyskens-directed shows to be exceptionally dour. not sure if it's because of money or perhaps a preference for a homogeneous look? maybe a bit of both?

to that extent, why not just dispense with faces or personalities altogether? this is why i thought the fibreglass mannequins worked well for this particular collection.

i once read that similar thinking lead the margiela team to develop their now famous face-obscuring masks. they were ultimately there to erase the face and focus the gaze on the clothes. i mean...it works! (though i doubt margiela could have foreseen how this concept would trickle down to pop culture, but that's another story)

actually, what would be really cool is to see videos where the camera glides over the entirety of each look, in the round, so we could see the details that olivier sees when he's making this.

that would be a brilliant experience for plebs like me who aren't in paris or wouldn't be allowed anywhere near this stuff.

 

[YohjiAddict]

What else can I add to what's already been said? I'm just gonna agree that Olivier outstaged most (if not all) shows this season with his artistic, intimate and very personal presentation that serves as a timely reminder of two things: that talents will always manage to make itself noticed and that there are no small collections, just small designers.

The way the seams twist, envelope and slither aroung the body is much more sensual than any of the "sexy" collections this season (riddled with cut-outs and vulgar titillation) which you can tell, even on a mannequin!

I already knew he was preparing something marvelous, after tempting us with a fall collection that he never revealed, it was worth the wait!

 

[Phuel]

i wasn't going to say anything but seeing as how both margiela and casting are being mentioned...

i so agree with those who find the most recent line-ups of models at theyskens-directed shows to be exceptionally dour. not sure if it's because of money or perhaps a preference for a homogeneous look? maybe a bit of both?

to that extent, why not just dispense with faces or personalities altogether? this is why i thought the fibreglass mannequins worked well for this particular collection.

i once read that similar thinking lead the margiela team to develop their now famous face-obscuring masks. they were ultimately there to erase the face and focus the gaze on the clothes. i mean...it works! (though i doubt margiela could have foreseen how this concept would trickle down to pop culture, but that's another story)

actually, what would be really cool is to see videos where the camera glides over the entirety of each look, in the round, so we could see the details that olivier sees when he's making this.

that would be a brilliant experience for plebs like me who aren't in paris or wouldn't be allowed anywhere near this stuff.

Hope Olivier never ever goes that route of veiling the models’ faces: Besides everyone accusing him of copying Margiela, his brand would lose such distinct personality.

Sounding like an annoying broken record— but I do like/admire his preference for a certain type of women, even if these types aren’t my preference. It’s too rare these days that a designer has the balls to cast a very specific look, a very specific type of women for his brand. Aside from this unspoken requirement but absolutely pressured casting of “diverse and inclusive” headcount with casting nowadays, almost all these shows lack any individual mood or force of personality. Every show’s casting looks just like the the previous one: It’s a mall casting, with not a whiff of personality. And what’s worse with so many of these castings is that despite all the “diversity and inclusivity” of faces/bodies, none of them will convince anyone that these groups of models would ever hang out IRL— which is really the point of a cast for your brand LOL The only one that gets it is Hedi: His casting of MOC alongside Caucasians truly look like individuals that would hang out and are a clan IRL. And this is a component of Olivier’s that I admire: His mousey, wallflowers dressed in designs that they may feel a tad awkward in but making the effort, feels and looks like a genuine mood of a certain type of young women exploring and discovering their power and potential as women. That brand of innocence mingling with feminine allure that his previous showings have created, is another reason why his casting and shows are so potent and adds so much more to the worldlbuilding of his brand.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

beautiful fabrications, but oh... to see these on a woman's body and in motion!

 

[chinsumo]

 

[LadyJunon]

For those curious about what the dresses look like on a human being, I found pictures of a couple of the dresses on Theyskens' Instagram page:



Photography: Jan Phillipzen
Styling: Stefie Lizi Bauwens
Make-up: Jenneke Croubels
Model: Elise van Iterson
Direction: Gro Curtis

 

[reese06]

Incredible when seen on a live model.

I can't even put it into words. Not many young designers or fashion houses putting out pieces like this.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Totally gorgeous.

 

[Norden]

Stunning. It’s so focused.

 

[LadyJunon]

Not many young designers or fashion houses putting out pieces like this.

I know. I hope to one day create designs as beautiful and moving as Theyskens...

 

[Melancholybaby]

Even more breathtaking.

 

[Phuel]

The shades of crimson of the patchwork gown on this particular model already tells a story: Like flames spiralling to envelop his Joan of Arc. So nice to feel inspired by the spirit, the energy of a fabled story again with fashion design. When you look at how corporately soulless and hollow such brands as Prada, Dior, Givenchy, Burberry have inevitably given into in order to sell more when once they did possessed a distinct soul and spirit of individuality like this. Olivier single-handedly smites them all into the dust with a single image of a gown worn by his signature gamine— and likely shot in the corner of his studio's attic, reminding us of the warmth, breath, flesh and blood of creative vision. And not a lick of gimmick nor on-trend pandering garbage.

 

[brandon J pierre]

wow love it

 

[FelipeV]

I see he usually comments on Miguel Adrover's instagram, I'm glad he's kind of following his path.

 

[Melancholybaby]

Bella Hadid in April's US Vogue (wearing @dior_couture1245 's favourite look)

 

[helmutnotdead]

it’s my favorite look too. it looks divine ob her to be honest.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Bella Hadid in April's US Vogue (wearing @dior_couture1245 's favourite look)

I always know the best look.

 

[Norden]

Fabulous. I find him to be exceptionally relevant for this time. It’s a comeback for me, in a whisper.

 

[balmain1914]

He can't go to Givenchy, as he doesn't make that kind of monogram and letter fashion sh*ts in his collections.

 

[perhydrol]

I believe this gown comes from s/s 2022 collection.