Now that I see all these "inspirations" Phoebe Philo finds in "avant-garde" designers, I'm very inclined to have another look at her work for Chloe ...
When you are a young artist, or young designer, I think it is very easy for anyone to feel the inspirations, where they're coming from, and sometimes spot a "look-alike" design/concept ... And I think this is normal. At such a young stage in a "career", culture/iconography library isn't "livresque", you can't possibly know everything (or basically it means you know nothing!)...
But the more mature you grow, the more you usually develop an identity, and stick to it (gallerists say that to young artists... you have to stick to an "aesthetics", a certain type of works ... it is then easier to sell your works, so stop going all around the place. collectors must be able to identify your works).
Phoebe Philo seems to be both a young and mature talent: she's able to take inspirations in her "mind iconography" library, and transform everything into her "minimal" identity.
When you work in cultural/artistic fields, you see, observe, read so many things, that sometimes you think you're the first one to do/write/theorize something, when actually it is just your subconscious who's tricky (the brain is a tricky b*tch we know nothing about, you know) !