April 20, 2006
Front Row
Project Parsons: Fashion School as Star
By ERIC WILSON
DONNA KARAN, Anna Sui and Narciso Rodriguez are among the most illustrious alumni claimed by Parsons the New School for Design, though truth be told, none of them actually completed enough courses to graduate before dropping out to join the real world of Seventh Avenue.
Ruth Fremson/The New York Times
FINAL PROJECT Tim Gunn, the fashion chairman at Parsons, and Jet Olivia, a student, discuss her collection.
"There was a time when there was not that much incentive for a designer to graduate," said Tim Gunn, the chairman of the fashion department, who can be credited, or perhaps held responsible, for giving Parsons a glamour makeover. The response to "Project Runway," the reality show on Bravo that is filmed at the school and features Mr. Gunn as its arch Socratic guide, has made a Parsons education, well, quite fashionable, and Mr. Gunn a celebrity.
Applications to the fashion program have increased by more than 20 percent since 2004 (to 903 this year), and the number of freshmen who declare fashion as their major at the end of their first year has more than doubled since 2001 (to 187 last year). Because of the increased enrollment in the department — 489 students in 2005 compared with 291 in 2001 — fashion is now the largest major at Parsons.
"It is likely that the biggest contributor is popular culture," said
Bob Kerrey, the president of the New School, which includes Parsons. "A show like 'Project Runway' brands Parsons all the time, and that has had an impact on the number of people who want to become fashion designers. It's been largely good for the school."
IN the last five years Parsons has modernized the fashion department with new design technology and a curriculum that goes beyond basic dressmaking skills, and today it is expected to announce the creation of a graduate program in fashion.
Ms. Karan and Paul Goldberger, the dean of Parsons, plan to announce that Ms. Karan will underwrite a new professorship, the first step toward a master's program. She would not say how much she had committed, but the minimum requirement to endow a chair at Parsons is $2.5 million.
"Looking at fashion in the context of society and culture is going to be a key mission of this program," Mr. Goldberger said.
Ms. Karan said that the increasingly competitive atmosphere for fashion needs an approach that is both technically proficient and intellectually informed. It is no small thorn in her side that she famously flunked a draping course in 1968, then dropped out to work for Anne Klein. She completed her remaining credits in 1986 and was awarded an honorary doctorate in 2004. Ms. Karan expects to take an active role in planning the graduate curriculum. "I'm not short of ideas," she said.
"There was more room in the industry when I went to school, but like everything else, fashion becomes more complicated. We're at a time when everything seems to have been done already."
Yet fashion seems to be where it's at for young people. Mr. Goldberger suggested that was partly because celebrity culture connects more easily to fashion than to other fields, and "Project Runway" fed into that. "What became an effect of the rising tide also becomes a cause of the rising tide," he said.
This week 119 seniors are preparing their final projects: small collections they will present to a panel of judges to determine whose will be part of a graduate show on May 8. That event is the equivalent of a designers' debutante ball, having established instant careers for designers like the Proenza Schouler team and Ashleigh Verrier, who were famous almost before graduation.
Sherri Folk, 33, has made so many samples that her professors have encouraged her to edit her presentation or risk overwhelming the judges. Ms. Folk said she has added a group of gray tweed pants to balance the shock of gold and brown batik dresses and sashes "to feed it to them," she said.
Brendon Sun, 24, and Bijan Kazem, 23, jointly designed a collection that includes a trench coat made of strips of python. Karen Chao and Prudence Wong based black and white designs on the shapes and aesthetics of Japanese comic books.
Mr. Gunn described the class as one of the most sophisticated he has encountered. "At Parsons we maintain that an education is not just about designing a dress," he said. "If these designers are really a barometric measure of their culture, the dress should not be the same as if it had been designed a couple of years later."