Phoebe Philo - Designer

From her shop-in-shop at Bergdorf's to this space on Lafayette, I’m surprised by how uninspiring and unexciting the physical retail aspect of her brand is—it feels like an afterthought. I wonder if they’ll put in more effort once she opens a stand-alone shop.
She should take a look at The Row and Toteme, with beautifully designed stores and curated interiors.
I don’t think Phoebe look at people who based their brands’s aesthetic around her work as inspiration.
And I don’t think she sees those brands as her competition. Clearly her moves doesn’t suggest it.

It looks like an Old Celine store. I can’t even be mad at her for replicating what she did at Celine at her own brand.

She is building the foundation of her house with her classics. And again I don’t mind it because it’s her own house.
A sense of familiarity is essential.
 
Pictures of her latest collection ("C") are up on her site and I think it's her best (for her own label) so far.
Also the pictures are finally a bit brighter, which makes everything look even more desirable.

I heard since she expanded to a more traditional wholesale model too, her brand is selling really well at the multi brand stores.
 
She's now expanding her wholesale network to 37 retailers worldwide...so slowly but surely she's actually entirely moving away from DTC only.
I suppose she has strict rules for the multibrand stores when it comes to not applying markdowns etcetera as more brands do.
In Europe it’s super illegal to do so though. If you sell a product to a wholesaler you can “recommend” them not to do markdown, but they are 100% free to do so… you can get a fine up to 10% of the total business if there’s a minimum sign that you tried to convince them not to do it, and the auditors are super picky! Also if you cancel them for next season after the markdowns is super tricky… but I guess good partners would follow what she suggests.

Anyways, it makes sense that she’s expanding through wholesale. But I have the same feeling Thefrenchy has… I feel that she didn’t do it right.

I would’ve expected a tiny evolution at least. There are some things that are variations of her Céline… which is normal but I don’t know. It feels very dry and uninteresting and a little bit passé. I adore her though, she’s probably one of the very best designers of our generation and has nothing else to prove, but still her own brand kinda disappointed me.
 
She launched a "new" purse, which is basically a version of the Céline trio...she is copying herself! So soon run out of ideas or what??



phoebephilo.com/
I was commenting that with a friend… maybe it’s smart to redo her bestsellers :lol: you also have the silk white dress with lace in the hem.

Anyway, you all had a very interesting conversation here… loved everybody’s insights and I feel everyone is right in a way.
 

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