Phoebe Philo F/W 2023.24

[LadyJunon]

Source: Pheobe Philo

 

[LadyJunon]

Source: Phoebe Philo

 

[Lola701]

When they are talking about women designing for women, this is what I expect!
Sure it’s following the path she created for herself at Celine, particularly her last few seasons but it’s perfect.
Daring, sexy, grown up and frivolous.
Because you don’t need to put us in prairie dresses and slogan tshirts to be feminist.

I love everything in this, even the mistakes and wild stuff.

Much like Nicolas’s debut at Vuitton or Tom’s debut in 2011, I’m not disappointed!

I can’t wait to wear to receive and wear my outfit for Xmas.

 

[LadyJunon]

Source: Phoebe Philo

 

[LadyJunon]

When they are talking about women designing for women, this is what I expect!
Sure it’s following the path she created for herself at Celine, particularly her last few seasons but it’s perfect.
Daring, sexy, grown up and frivolous.
Because you don’t need to put us in prairie dresses and slogan tshirts to be feminist.

Philo and Muiccia are truly forces to be reckoned with in terms of femininist, intellectual designers. Definitely my favourites.

 

[caioherrero]

A lot of pieces are sold out

 

[KoV]

Remember when people were saying they just knew Phoebe was positively furious Daria worked with Gucci and destroyed the big exclusive comeback campaign she had planned?

 

[jeanclaude]

Dated and overpriced for me. Some parts of it look like they belong in another collection (like those trashy leggings).

dreamstime.com

 

[RaisinBoy]

So how is this different from Proenza Schouler et al.?

 

[MulletProof]

I hadn't thought that if I always hated Céline campaigns and this will be the main form of communication, that I will always have to dig through the visual trash just to get to the good part, UGHHH.

Some things I found tempting enough to just.. enter the digits (like the cherry [?] trousers), but like Lola, I don't like them enough to buy them compulsively or under pressure, they just didn't bring that urge in me, and I might be petty but some of these takes on 'rawness'..

phoebephilo.com

Corporate life wrinkles sure.. but that's literally state employee/call center butt. It's not aspirational.

 

[LANZO_358]

Apart from some on the “hand-combed” pieces which really I’d love to see styled/worn on the streets IRL - my personal opinion is that - there’s not much beauty or even a novel/fresh proposition here. It’s all quite mawkish. A lot of the fabrication is giving deadstock, and the visuals are giving (early Internet) European overstock website, for instance. She has a name though, so she’ll be alright.

 

[PierreGotha]

This collection is a reintroduction of who she is and what she does. It's Philo at Celine as we all knew and adored.
It gives a feeling of De Ja Vu. It's not as too similar to what she had done, but it does rhyme. Perhaps, maybe because her contemporaries began leeching her imagery and ethos after her exit. Hence the familiarity of some pieces.

The entirety and assortment are quite safe and calculated. These are meant to be digested easily. Yet the prices will have you second-guessing, while their selling point and argument that it is exclusive. However, with these Philo-essentials combined with limited availability, it's a double-edged sword. Because the brands and individuals who relied on her echo can easily cannibalize the integrity of this brand.

I think the second collection/Drop will be more exciting than this intermittent. if not, then it should be noted.

 

[KoV]

Looking over the site now, 67 listings are sold out completely, and 37 still have some stock in some sizes available. I'd say that's kind of an unprecedented success for a debut label. I know that's a very surface-level reading, but still. People were complaining about the delays, the lack of transparency, and finally prices, but clearly, the excitement, the loyalty, and the market were there all along. Good for her.

 

[Nimsay]

that Mum collar necklace is probably the single best accessory shown for SS24. Eclipsing Prada’s fringe belts.

PP is doing High Fashion Streetwear. some of the sold out pieces are puzzling like that combed bottom. I want to see how someone wears that irl. Some random stuff here like that cargo shirt - really basic atp. Its better than proenza because its quite chic.


I think some of this sold out PP - like BAPE or Mastermind and Supreme - will go unworn. Treated as art and traded over retail prices.

 

[Constructionist]

My takeaway from this collection is that her theme is "hey guys remember me? I used to design like this".

So, I'll take it as that and wait for her second collection.

 

[Drusilla_]

It's as we expected, very old-Célineish in spirit, wearable with some intriguing bits of wonky - which, why not? She's the one who brought that aesthetic to the 2010s in the first place.

Things sold out in 24 hours already, proves that her fans were absolutely still out there and they weren't all talk, which is no joke considering the price point.

(and unpopular opinion but I love the logo and typeface for the brand, it's a bit retro and different from all the ~tasteful~ rebrands, and very distinct. Suits Phoebe somehow, someone said it looked like the Stranger Things logo which is actually pretty cool if you look at it - textured and with lots of detail)

 

[Yasouss]

The collection is not for my own taste but I really appreciate the imaagery accompanying the collection. The red logo and font are completely garish and really ruin a great campaign. The prices are absurd and since its online only for now, it will be interesting to see how the quality of the materials translate in real life for that price.

 

[lhhbl]

I love it!
I am not sure being sold out means the she sold a lot. It can be a marketing strategy to make it seem like it sold more than it actually did but making small amounts available at first and also a manufacturing strategy. Probably there’ll be restocks.
Anyway, it’s very her, it’s what people wanted, it’s chic and expensive and luxurious and Daria is there!!

 

[KoV]

I love it!
I am not sure being sold out means the she sold a lot. It can be a marketing strategy to make it seem like it sold more than it actually did but making small amounts available at first and also a manufacturing strategy. Probably there’ll be restocks.
Anyway, it’s very her, it’s what people wanted, it’s chic and expensive and luxurious and Daria is there!!

I'm guessing the quantities were very limited, but I'd be surprised if there were restocks coming soon. And even if they were limited, I think limited quantity drops a few times a year that can sell out quickly makes more sense than maintaining anything close to full stock year-round. Though you never know, because some items do say "available soon" (like this $19,000 dress or these sunglasses )

 

[Lola701]

I love it!
I am not sure being sold out means the she sold a lot. It can be a marketing strategy to make it seem like it sold more than it actually did but making small amounts available at first and also a manufacturing strategy. Probably there’ll be restocks.
Anyway, it’s very her, it’s what people wanted, it’s chic and expensive and luxurious and Daria is there!!

Being sold out means she sold a lot…It means she sold the stocks of items made, simple as that.
It’s a small company so we can’t expect the scales to be the same as they were for Celine and Chloe. And they were very upfront about the fact that they will deliberately limit quantities.

But then again, being sold out means that her customers are responding favorably to what she is proposing. They still got a long way to go. The brand has to be profitable…Even if I think that she will close the brand when she retires.