Phoebe Philo F/W 2023.24

[ecnerretneerg]

May I ask how you're able to distinguish the ones taken by from Chetrit from the ones taken by by Lebon?
Are their names somehow tagged in the data contained in the .jpg file?

I think he has a distinct language that’s hard to articulate but a good example is his work for Bottega during Lee’s tenure. Plus chetrit’s photos look more grainy and don’t incorporate flash

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Yes overall the vibe of the visuals are very late 70s/early 80s grindhouse/snuff film

Yesssss <3

 

[fizfizfiz]

I think he has a distinct language that’s hard to articulate but a good example is his work for Bottega during Lee’s tenure. Plus chetrit’s photos look more grainy and don’t incorporate flash

Thank you very much.

 

[StylishCynic]

Everything is sold out except for "available soon" or "POA" items.

 

[Creative]

Major. It felt like a big fashion moment. The clothes are superb. Even better than Céline. Applause.

 

[Nimsay]

I have been thinking a lot about the propositions here. Im thinking the floor dragging looks are supposed to be worn at home like ultra luxe leisurewear. I like that I can possibly see her train of thought through the clothes. The fuzzy white pants are irresistable despite giving a little goatman energy.

yea mum is the england english word for Mom, Mother. I think the necklace is so feminine and discreet. So desirable for a woman who is a Mom to have a high fashion piece celebrating motherhood.

 

[Bernie Flood]

Wonder if she’s going to release a cosmetic line?

 

[Bernie Flood]

I don’t want to sound pessimistic but I have been seeing this silhouette in every designers for the last few years of so. Though it was her who invented this look

 

[Lola701]

I don’t want to sound pessimistic but I have been seeing this silhouette in every designers for the last few years of so. Though it was her who invented this look

When you have an authority over one look, you are almost untouchable…Even more considering that she has at her advantage that her aesthetic can be evolutive. People will continue to copy her past work…

 

[Nimsay]

I mean Phoebes look is pretty discreet. Are we just talking about how she is in fashion and relevant to the times. I would still say Phoebe has no look and no codes. These clothes are very anonymous despite being desirable. Phoebes thing is witty humorous reinterpretations of whats already in vogue. Really shes perfect as a Supreme BAPE competitor because a lot of her value is occult. LVMH - again - showing their best-in-class business acumen.

Looking at KL YSL Gianni Galliano etc you can instantly tell its their work. PP not so much - only the bags really which is why she is the most important bag designer since MJ at LV.

 

[Lola701]

I mean Phoebes look is pretty discreet. Are we just talking about how she is in fashion and relevant to the times. I would still say Phoebe has no look and no codes. These clothes are very anonymous despite being desirable. Phoebes thing is witty humorous reinterpretations of whats already in vogue. Really shes perfect as a Supreme BAPE competitor because a lot of her value is occult. LVMH - again - showing their best-in-class business acumen.

Looking at KL YSL Gianni Galliano etc you can instantly tell its their work. PP not so much - only the bags really which is why she is the most important bag designer since MJ at LV.

You are comparing quite formal Couturier to a HF RTW designer…
She created an aesthetic, which is quite a feat in itself. We can’t overcome the fact that she is one of the most influential designer of those past 20 years and that the allure she created for fashion changed the game.
We saw many brands shift or channel their aesthetic from her work…
Maybe I would agree on one thing in the sense that her work is remarkable but not « noticeable ».
She has key pieces, a vocabulary that is very her and that we can recognize but she doesn’t have like « a cut » or « a silhouette ». Nicolas has a very particular shoulder or way of cutting his jacket, signature shapes in dresses and even details. Hedi has a way of cutting jackets for example.

I would say that Phoebe is a bit like Riccardo Tisci. And they are in a league for me.

The maybe lower league version of them is maybe Pierpaolo Piccoli. He is a good designer but his clothes are neither noticeable or remarkable.

 

[LadyJunon]

Maybe I would agree on one thing in the sense that her work is remarkable but not « noticeable ».
She has key pieces, a vocabulary that is very her and that we can recognize but she doesn’t have like « a cut » or « a silhouette ». Nicolas has a very particular shoulder or way of cutting his jacket, signature shapes in dresses and even details. Hedi has a way of cutting jackets for example.

I feel like those sorts of designers are becoming increasingly common these days due to the simple fact that most wearable silhouettes have already been invented.

It doesn't help that designers seem to have shifted from being "master technicians" to being "masters marketers".

Future designers will most likely be known for creating a certain type of aesthetic through iconography à la Jacquemus.

 

[Bernie Flood]

When you have an authority over one look, you are almost untouchable…Even more considering that she has at her advantage that her aesthetic can be evolutive. People will continue to copy her past work…

I also like what she did at Chloe. Those flowy dresses et al

 

[Drusilla_]

^that's exactly it, she showed a command of more than one aesthetic over the course of her career - her Céline or own label looks nothing like her Chloé which was a clear evolution away from what Stella had done before her.