Prada F/W 2022.23 Milan | the Fashion Spot
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Prada F/W 2022.23 Milan

I found it their best offering yet. Very sharp, gorgeous coats and knitwear (could have lived without the fake (?) fur at the coat's arms). At least less and smaller Prada logos. And the casting was divine!
 
So many experienced faces! It feels good watching them, they definitely make the clothes look better. Having said that, very solid collection. It needs some editing but it's a good offering.
 
Can we wait until an edited clip is released? Nobody asked for all that pre-show footage.
 
It was better than previous collections, but one thing I noticed was that it felt like the same ideas over and over again. Also, I don’t think I spotted one look that had pants which is always a bit strange for me.
 
I enjoyed the collection. Makes me think of some of Raf's best work at Jil Sander.

I liked hearing "I Feel You" by Depeche Mode in the show. That song is from one of their best albums (my favorite from them)
 
It is curious how the menswear and womenswear have such a different effect while sharing so much in common.
I found the men's grating, to say the least, a real low in Prada's history, and less than a month later this, if not fantastic, very energizing and super-polished effort.
Maybe, at long last, Raf and Miuccia are managing to blend their ideas in a more convincing way.
 
This was a very long and repetitive collection...

Some great looks and ideas but there was no need to do that many near exact replications of them. The silver Prada triangle irked me as per usual, and the wallpaper print sweaters weren't really needed.

I don't know if it's just me, but the flow felt really odd. It is a very repetitious collection look wise so that doesn't help, but the ordering didn't feel right.

BUT, finally a great shoe is seen at a show. Not the most innovative, but dang its simplicity, shape and height elevated the looks.

Side note: The arrivals in the live streams I always find humorous. So many people that are incapable of wearing clothes genuinely!
 
The silver logo plates are the worst part of this collection. They need to get rid of the logomania, it feels so passe now! And especially in the context of really limited distribution of their runway collection it just doesn't make any sense. However, I appreciate that the influence of Raf was kept to the absolute bare minimum. This collection feels quite archival and more decorative at the same time, which doesn't look good on paper, but it somehow worked. I just don't understand why it was so repetitive, it felt like 10 looks repeated all over again with different decorations. That's something they have to figure out.

It's the best thing Raf and Miuccia have created together so far and definitely better than the menswear, but they still have room for improvement.
 
Surprisingly, i don't hate this, I even enjoy the show, which is the first time I do since Raf joined.

My favorite part is the black tailoring section, so good, very sharp and structural. And the chain details added a nice touch to it if they didn't ruin it with that logo.

This collection is the first time I see Raf ideas incorporate into Prada vocabulary seamlessly instead of sticking out. Since everybody is jumping on the nostalgia these days, this collection has a lot of elements from Prada in the 90s ( the prints, the decorations). But with Miuccia it was more natural because she has always been a self preference her own archive.

But they can do a heavy editing because some elements are dragging the whole collection down. First is the triangle logos, yes they are smaller this time, but they are still everywhere, and unless I saw Miuccia walking around wearing logos, I still believe that it was never her idea for this logo heavy approach. And those coat with the fake fur details can also be left out, it doesn't work for the menswear and it definitely doesn't work for womenswear.

This is a step into a right direction, I hope that they will keep it up. And Miuccia still looks as chic as ever.
 
It's a great collection! Very sharp looks at the beginning. The coats look divine, especially the leather ones. I'm sure the aviator shearling jackets will be a hit, as well as the bombers covered in flowers. I really liked the skirts too! I'm not into the wedges return though.
 
Still as hollow and soulless as ever. And insufferably monotonous and annoyingly repetitive— like a broken record.

Some glimpses of Prada’s eternal glories makes it even worse, since it feels like Miuccia struggling to break free from Raf: The perfectly tailored flannel-grey suiting with the perfect below the knee Miuccia-signature full, panelled skirt with matching jacket is glorious; the shearlings and leathers worn with gauzy below the knee tube dresses is quintessential Prada. Everything else has Raf’s heavy-handed ickiness all over it.
 
There was a time where many people complained about how there was a big discrepancy between runway presentation and products in stores. Then there was a brief period where it actually seemed the business was moving in the direction of taking the proposed runway to the floors of the salesroom. Now we're back to doing the same runway stunts to focus on selling icky branded airport merch. At this point I don't really care what they put down the runway just knowing what's at the forefront of their creative process. Maybe I'm being too cynical but they totally lost me. It's all marketing, no product.
 
I've found this to be the case with Prada now for what feels like almost an entire decade - the first handful of looks is promising...and then it just turns into a total mess.

Same thing here. Everything is pretty nice from look one until about look 12-14. Then, as soon as those embellished, oversized bomber jackets show up...it's a catastrophe until the end.

The last few 40's looking dresses aren't bad, but could do without the doodads attached to them.

Shoes are nice.

And I absolutely LOATHE those coats with the faux fur puffs on the arms. And the wallpaper sweaters are tragic.
 

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