Prada F/W 2024.25 Milan

It's gorgeous but it's barely Prada. It's missing that humor. However, I do attribute that to Miuccia herself. I think that's his problem. His work is just too cold for me.
 
My main impression is that it's quite uneven, not just in terms of direction (first the bow dress as a continuation of last season's flyaway shifts, then some plain-yet-odd tailoring, then random pops of color via the little sweaters that we already saw at the menswear show, then more of the bow dresses, then a pair of varsity jackets, then a group of not particularly convincing looks with narrow long skirts...), but also in terms of taste (the tight Matrix-style leather jackets are perfection, while the dress on Anok resembles an unsuccessful gift wrap). Overall, I'll take a few challenging ideas over a parade of perfectly safe and store-ready products, but I do think they neeeded to filter out some of it, most notably some of the hats. Glad the footwear is stronger than what they offered for men in January.
 
This collection is not that bad, but when I see those feathered 'Night Porter' hats all in can think is how far superior that Louis Vuitton F/W 2011 collection was by comparison.

Since the inception of the Raf era I feel like Prada is pushing out pieces, if not full collections that look good when styled well (not by Rizzo, but by others in editorial) but the overall impact is not there anymore. The brand is relying on the hypebeast triangle logo output to keep it relevant whereas just over a decade ago it was definitely the runway collections that promoted Miuccia's one of a kind high fashion allure and really put her in a league of her own. Those days are obviously long gone now, although I think Miu Miu still has some of that magic at times these days.
 
This looks like luxe apocalypse fashion. Boring, dated, the whole tone and styling of the show seems weird. The intentionally awkward arm placement of the models. The cast looks like they were told to look miserable onstage.
 
what a joke. a couple of slightly interesting ideas paired the most gimmicky but bad styling ever.
painful to watch.

this has to be the worse duo in fashion.
 
A pink dress all covered in bows??? That belongs in a Moschino collection, not in Prada! I think they should open all the windows of their atelier, as it seems the nylon fumes are affecting negatively their brains.
 
Ok I was trying my best to see the good in it but I stopped watching halfway. Were they targeting an older market? It’s so terribly lifeless for Prada! And it’s getting more boring every season. I hate to say it but having Raf onboard must be a mistake.
 
it's their best co-collection yet. and i still don't like it.
it's like witnessing an endless pityful long-covid-syndrom: too much brain fog, no sex and fun anymore.
 
oh gosh... ig fashun folks are gonna try to make those porter hats fetch

one thing that works are the shoes

this season is very apparent miuccia and raf are clashing. i'm surprised they lasted this long. design-wise, it is becoming untenable, if not almost dysfunctional, but do they think so? the numbers say no, so who cares who thinks how silly it all looks in the daylight.
 
They try, with the wrong ingredients, to summon the spirit of prada but the result is always...nada. It never hits the target.

Maybe Miuccia and Raf should search for a new spirit, a new look instead of repeating this failure over and over again.
 
The signature Prada shift dress again and again and again… but this time in colors and styles I just can’t get behind. What a disappointment.
 
While I wasn't a fan of Raf coming to Prada and still don't think he's the one to take over when Miuccia leaves, we should remember that at times things haven't been too glorious even before he came. I also feel like the hate any Prada collection has been getting here is rather disproportionate to the fact that we're talking about a brand that is still challenging conventional (good) taste while obviously trying to stay aspirational. Not saying we should applaud the shift dresses with bows, but I do think there are still more interesting ideas and notions - even when frustratingly executed - on a Prada runway than on most of the other ones.
 
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Not saying we should applaud the shift dresses with bows, but I do think there are still more interesting ideas and notions - even when frustratingly executed - on a Prada runway than on most of the other ones.
I agree with you. But yhe problem is that this is Prada. They should be delivering much more than frustratingly executed notions.
 
While I wasn't a fan of Raf coming to Prada and still don't think he's the one to take over when Miuccia leaves, we should remember that at times things haven't been too glorious even before he came. I also feel like the hate any Prada collection has been getting here is rather disproportionate to the fact that we're talking about a brand that is still challenging conventional (good) taste while obviously trying to stay aspirational. Not saying we should applaud the shift dresses with bows, but I do think there are still more interesting ideas and notions - even when frustratingly executed - on a Prada runway than on most of the other ones.
I agree that some Prada collections have been lack luster (especially after the Minimalist Baroque). The brand relied on overly cartoony aesthetics because of the success of SS11, with few notable exceptions. The brand also benefitted from Pavesi’s exceptional editing of the collections, and I find that all collections before her death had this incredible sense of consideration. Some of the themes they explored each season might not have been successful but they were curated to a high degree.

What I appreciated with this current collection is that the duo did not overly rely on the archive. They had new ideas, but boy, these new ideas were just atrocious. I loved Prada for its development of ideas and intense edit before things went awry. Now, they’re just feeding clients with barely baked ideas that resulted in an incoherent mess of dresses festooned with random bows, logo bomber jackets and yawn-inducing deconstructed garments. Gift all of those garments to their court jesters (their ambassadors and Tiktokers on payroll) - it really doesn’t matter anymore. This brand really has nothing left important to say.
 

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