Prada S/S 2022 Milan & Shanghai

[FelipeV]

I'm pretty sure there's a 200 pages manifesto explaining how intellectual is this #overthink

Miuccia, gurl, if you reading this: Fire Raf, you started this alone and you still can, YOU NEED NO MAN. If you thinking in retirement, there's a lot of more talented designers out there gurl.

 

[Fiercification]

Possibly the worst Prada collection ever, at least to my mind. Although YohjiAddict mentions some of my fave S/S Prada collections in his comparison to this .

Those leather jackets are beyond gross (they don't even look clean) and the idiotic tail skirts are like stuff that got left on the studio floor when Raf was first at Dior (hated that era so much). This brand is so lost right now, even Google Maps can't save it.

 

[CholoChic]

The good thing is that your floors will be shiny and clean thanks to that nonsense tail

 

[Norden]

I was reading Cathy horyns article on this show, and usually I agree. But I just can’t get into this show. I find the fashion proposition extremely thin, which I think is Rafs influence. Even when Prada was at her most simple, there was a playful range and depth.

I’m by no means a person who believes everything should be wearable, but those trains are too unwearable to have them so much in the show.

I also see Rafs influence on the shoes, which are a continuation on what he did at both dior and ck. This is also immediately the biggest problem, it has nothing to do with Prada. Similar issues persist in the bags, which are such a non event.

the show itself in terms of music and set was nice, I also like the dual location idea. But again, it could have been pushed. It’s a very simple conceptual trick that doesn’t really add value.

I’m quite curious how this is selling.

 

[Nomar]

This collection was nothing groundbreaking but at least it wasn't terrible either. I actually thought the Shanghai thing was actually kind of cool but also a bit pointless because the looks were the EXACT same. This was a missed opportunity for them to have a bit of fun and change things up, even if was a slight alteration like a colour change or different accessory, that would have made things so much more interesting.

 

[Delleone]

There has been something bugging me about the trails of fabric at Prada. Now I realise what it is — toilet roll being stuck on the back of your pants! But I do like the simple geometry of them. The way the central back panel on the pink duchess shift (looks 37/39) could trail skywards, almost as if the dress wasn’t quite finished. I think that this summarises the collection done/ undone. Dressed in haste. #feels like Prada. The boning that doesn’t cinch at the waist but protrudes awkwardly outwards is a curious flourish however. Not at all flattering. Overall I do enjoy this.

 

[Mathewthew]

I asked myself who would wear that shapeless satin dress? Who would wear those sweater in that length?
I found some interesting details and some nice pieces.
But I don't know what is their message without the fancy PR article and reviews that will constantly told me how intellectual the collection is.
I'm sure they will make changes during production, but there's something odd with the silhouettes.
I know it's Prada with the triangle details, but intellectual? I can't see it

 

[WAVES]

I asked myself who would wear that shapeless satin dress? Who would wear those sweater in that length?
I found some interesting details and some nice pieces.
But I don't know what is their message without the fancy PR article and reviews that will constantly told me how intellectual the collection is.
I'm sure they will make changes during production, but there's something odd with the silhouettes.
I know it's Prada with the triangle details, but intellectual? I can't see it

no one, because Prada is not selling.

 

[urd]

With this supposed age of sustainability and their fur-free and recycled nylon efforts, staging two shows send quite a wastefull message.

 

[Phuel]

Corporate brands like Prada/Vuitton/Dior should just show in China from now on. Just be real about whom you’re desperately seeking for support with all the overpriced logo/mongrammed garbage. (And I sort of dig that despite all the hollow and shallow white knight/white saviour virtue-signaling that the industry attempts, it’s the crazy rich Asian money that is still what they’re all ruthlessly competing for ultimately LOL)

You know, Prada has quickly ceased to be that slyly intelligent and quietly provocative brand and placed itself into the mass-appealing, outlet-aesthetic, profit-maximizing, soulless corporation it is now in less then few short years. With Raf’s contribution— and God only knows why this person is still in business, it’s become that much more annoying and obnoxious. The few traces of Miuccia’s part— and you can always tell which is Muiccia’s and which is Raf's since her parts still show signs of life, while his is always so unnecessarily cold and lifeless: Hers being the leathers, corseted sweaters and jackets— and that lone crochet/lace dress that feels like it was thrown in last minute to remind everybody that this is still Prada and not Raf, all feels like such a sad reminder of this brand’s golden days of clever, witty subversion and couture-like attitude. The rest…. all looks and feels so strategically cynical, like it was designed and produced by some LinkedIn nameless department-store marketing types’ idea of what Prada is in 2021 to optimize profit margins. I loathe Raf Simons.

(The womenswear efforts still best the men’s tho. With the men’s, it’s just a bunch of punkyish-looking teens forced to relive Raf’s creepy fascination with Berlin punk of his youth. A multi-millionaire middle-age man secured in his luxury fashion tower still clinging to the creds of his youth is so embarrassing; there’s a reason why rappers whom are now rich middle-aged businessmen don’t pose as angry young Black men anymore— cuz they’re not. Take a hint, Raf.)

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It’s a definite improvement. But that’s not saying much. It’s lacking in variety. There are about 5 looks that are repeated several times throughout the collection. It’s one of the most repetitive Prada collections ever. I thought Fall 2012 was repetitive, but this takes it to whole new level.
I liked the satin dresses with the cut out backs, but then I realized how tricky the styling is. Are the skirts integrated into the dress? Is it a separate piece? Then you have to buy the belt to go with the skirt. It’s a lot of effort for one look. The best looks were the knitwear. They actually felt new and chic. Something that I haven’t said about Prada in years. The two little Rompers in red and green were my favorites. The knitted sweaters with the breast pieces were good as well. The lace dress on Lexi was too derivative of Calvin Klein. One thing we can all agree on is how disgusting those brown leather coats were. Hideous! The two crumpled dresses with the boning were interesting. The trains on the skirts are obviously impractical, but it’s something new so I’ll take it. Raf and Miuccia really need to put more effort into it next season. The collection desperately needed more variety. That is something that has been missing from the very beginning of this partnership. If they want to keep our attention then they need to give us more to think about. With that being said, it’s still the best out of the three collections they’ve presented so far. Now that they’ve shown in person there is no excuse for any more pandemic collections. The time for Prada is now.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Milan Gets Physical
By Angelo Flaccavento

The Milan fashion week that closed on Sunday was a polarised affair: a mix of intimate gatherings at which the clothes were almost at hand’s reach — see Armani, for instance — and grandiose mega-productions traveling through space and time.

Of the large-scale spectaculars, Prada was certainly the most captivating. Life-sized screens dispersed into the labyrinthine set functioned like digital doors connecting Milan and Shanghai, where simultaneous shows were being held. Guests in Milan could see what happened on the catwalk in Shanghai, and vice versa, and it all felt like a mind-expanding displacement peppered with an Escher-esque sense of vertigo.

As for the collection, seduction was the theme. Sex and the body were the main topic of discussion this season in Milan, because sex sells and post-Covid there is a desire to get physical again. Voluptuous womanliness has always been part of the Prada lexicon. But with Raf Simons as co-designer things took a turn: tropes of femininity like lace, trains and bra cups were stripped down to striking effect, reimagined for the post-MeToo generation. It was a bold outing, but it lacked Mrs Prada’s depth.

Simons has clearly been brought in to speak to a younger generation –and here his mega-sized take on the Prada logo has been a hit. But he has somehow brought a flatness to the proceedings, along with some obvious references. The deconstructed trains and pointy shoes were too clearly reminiscent of Helmut Lang circa 1997, which is something that never happened with Miuccia at the helm. Of course, it’s not where you take things from, but where you take them to. At Prada, it would be great to see co-creative direction that takes things to new places again.

 

[Frederic01]

^^ Confused to what Helmut Lang "circa 1997" collection Flaccavento is referring to? You can see all the Lang collections on FirstView, and I don't see any similarities between any Helmut Lang collection to this Prada collection at all? Raf's Prada is the polar opposite to Lang. If anything, his early Jil Sander collections were more in line with the Lang 90's aesthetic.

For a start Lang would never use such a rich colour palette. His palette was always much more sombre (white/grey/black with pops of colour) and he was known for single colour looks; he did not mix colours together like Raf and Miuccia did/do. Second of all, he very rarely (if at all) used duchesse satin, which is pretty much the signature fabric in this collection. Thirdly, Miuccia has referenced Helmut Lang multiple times, for example in Autumn/Winter 2018 when she paid homage to his Spring/Summer 1999 collection.


vogue.com/

 

[YohjiAddict]

^I believe he made a mistake, Helmut Lang F/W 95.96 was the collection he was probably thinking about.

 

[perfect blue]

Random thought, but that just makes me miss the golden age of Helmut Lang.

 

[Lola701]

Random thought, but that just makes me miss the golden age of Helmut Lang.

The irony of that brand being killed by Prada and Miuccia deciding to work with Raf, someone who worship Helmut.

He should try to get justice for Helmut and actually do Helmut at Prada. He went to do Helmut at Calvin Klein when he is actually now at the right brand for it!

 

[andrew]

maybe miuccia can do us a solid and buy out helmut lang's artwork thus forcing him to circle back into fashion.

 

[Bugsy]

To me, the cloth tails coming out of the models backsides, make me think of toilet paper. It looks stupid and laughable.The models don't look attractive. It's like they tried to make the models unattractive and boring. There is nothing special about any of this. This show was a fail.