Prada : What Went Wrong?

[constanceMafioso]

The logic which says to look at A or C, so B can do the same without any consequences is entirely false.

Each business is different from one another, have different needs and for that reason require specific strategies to respond to these.

If Prada (which I doubt) is running their business basing on Loewe or Céline e-marketing strategies, two brands who are completely different from them then I'm certain that they are doomed.

It's not because Céline skips social media or ambassadors today that tomorrow this strategy will keep working. Like some have said this is a cycle and Céline's no-social-media strategy will certainly become costly one day.

Well, actually they can if they adapt it but I'm really skeptical that such a big brand like Prada can keep fighting the anti-2.0 war for that long when other big players have really decided to make this a strength after being fearful at first.

A business that does not understand that we're living in a 2nd internet revolution and does not adapt its model will almost essentially struggle today because consumers them have no problems understanding that.

I know there a lot of people who try turn away from the reality but the facts are facts.

In France for instance, if you part away from the Chanel or Vuitton, there are a lot of iconic fashion brands that have died or are dying because they were essentially unable to promote their model (Bata, La Redoute or that other iconic lingerie brand I can't remember the name who has filed for bankruptcy the other day).

It's actually worth watching brands other than the big RTW players to understand how fashion is really going through a rough transition all together.

What is happening to Prada is just a reflection of what is happening to a lot of other smaller, economically weaker brands who are simply failing to transcend beyond their traditions. Only, Prada has what it takes to hold.

I think a lot of posters here pretty much nailed some of it: weak internet presence (e-commerce, social media etc.) and because of that complete lack of engagement with the audience... in between many other obvious/non-obvious things.

 

[george5]

Off topic but, after seeing what They did to Jil Sander and Helmut Lang, my inner self can't help it but rejoice a bit with this situation

 

[YohjiAddict]

Off topic but, after seeing what They did to Jil Sander and Helmut Lang, my inner self can't help it but rejoice a bit with this situation

I thought that was a direct result of their respective bad choices and clear stupidity. Either way Helmut lives happily ever after with the ton of money he got from that deal so...no need for the pity.

 

[Creative]

Off topic but, after seeing what They did to Jil Sander and Helmut Lang, my inner self can't help it but rejoice a bit with this situation

That's the way karma works. Funniest comment in the thread.

And, once again, I think the Internet presence in luxury is not that important. In fact, for super classy people like me (just kidding :cool2 seeing fashion brands going wild on the Internet sort of cheapens the whole thing.

 

[YohjiAddict]

That's the way karma works. Funniest comment in the thread.

And, once again, I think the Internet presence in luxury is not that important. In fact, for super classy people like me ([just kidding :cool2 seeing fashion brands going wild on the Internet sort of cheapens the whole thing.

If e-commerce wasn't an important deal for high fashion brands, why is it that more and more of them are looking to expand their online presence?

E-commerce is so important that even a brand like Chanel has an interest in expanding in that category. There's clearly market research showing that "super classy" people don't care so much about being snobs, but more about convenience.

These types of online stores are clearly not catering soley to wannabes because they don't only sell key-chains and scarfs, they also happen to sell 4 digit ball-gowns-which wouldn't even be on sale if nobody was interested in buying them.

 

[Lola701]

That is the only example... The rest of the houses have all had their ups and downs. And could you please explain what do you mean when you say they take risks? I think their fashion is very normal as well as their campaigns... But it's like Coca Cola, so big and iconic that never fades away...

They may not take risks from our perspective but for the general public or even their regular customers, they do.
Doing the supermarket collection was a risk and it paid of. The sneakers from the collection were sold out everywhere in Paris in two weeks.
The way they twist their "very normal" fashion can be risky sometimes. It looks Chanel, it is refined but it's not precious and it's quite far from the idea that people have of the brand.

The way Karl takes advantages of social issues or events happening in France is quite risky from a business point of view. They are not really doing what anybody will do with a luxury brand.
Karl speaks about everything and anyone without damaging the brand. He is maybe the only designer who admit that the founder of the house would hate his work.


My thing is that, Chanel is so successful because they don't have a formula. Having Brad Pitt selling the N°5 was a bad idea and it didn't worked but somehow, they always managed to challenge our perception of what they are by their collections, their spokespersons choices...etc.
They are so active that even when they failed, we don't see it because they have already anticipate the next thing.

 

[AnaD]

I think Prada has lost it's key customer point and is struggling to adapt. In the past they were all about catering to intellectual women with more mature outlooks and ideas and the clothing reflected this. Smart, classic garments with an unexpected twist, clothing that appealed to women in their 20s and those in the 30-40 year old age group, and it worked because their clothes were so striking and unusual.
Then their work became cliche and the customers who flocked to the brand in it's heyday got older and had kids and Prada became known as the brand that your mother bought (at least that's how I think of it). Now Prada's trying to break out of that mould while staying true to the look that made it famous and everything is a mess and the brand is becoming less and less appealing.

 

[sixtdaily]

E-commerce is so important that even a brand like Chanel has an interest in expanding in that category.

They don't (info from someone who works at Chanel in the digital department )

 

[Creative]

They don't (info from someone who works at Chanel in the digital department )

Thank god they don't. They don't need it. It's like wholesale. I hate it.

 

[MyNameIs]

I hadn't realized there was something "wrong" with Prada, tbh. I mean aside from the fact that their casts/campaigns haven't been as revered as before. But if it's true that the allure of "Prada" has worn off, I think everyone here has pretty much nailed the reasons.

My take is that Miuccia just started taking herself way too seriously. From the "ugly for the sake of being ugly" collections to the random campaigns to the absurd obsession with new casts each season. She bought into her own hype and assumed people would follow wherever she goes. And she's been right to a point, but maybe people are starting to get bored with it.

But I am glad they've not jumped on the social media trend. That is one thing about Miuccia I respect.

 

[perhydrol]

To me one of the main problems of Prada is being too literal with the styling and inspirations but I see that many brands have that problem now. Just look at the f/w 16 collection, or even the f/w 12 one- that was very heavy with prints and silhouettes that weren't really customer-friendly. On the other hand Prada still can design a good collection without being too literal and too commercial, s/s 15 comes to my mind here.

I feel like they don't know what to do so they keep producing collections like s/s 13 or f/w 14 because they just don't know their customer enough.

 

[whitewine82]

This "crisis" is very confusing for me, I mean, I remember the SS14 and how everybody went crazy about that overcoats, I thought that the everything was OK.

The theory that this is caused because they are not producing the runway clothes is probably the right one, but still strange. Everything that I have from Prada I bought by lookbook because the nearest store only sells shoes and bags and I never noticed the difference. Plus: sometimes they give me a lookbook that the pictures of the lookbook are from the runway show. Maybe I never noticed because I always go for "basic" Prada.

And they should pick Lupita Nyong'o and Eddie Redmayne to brand ambassadors.

 

[whitewine82]

PS: it would AMAZING a better e-commerce, I hate to go to boutiques, and I don't understand why they don't do it, I don't see this decision coming from Miuccia.

 

[Wenden]

I'm a huge fan of Miuccia and even if latest collections are not that mind blowing as in the past, there's still an idea, the concept that always make me think and excites me. There's no a house like this who works with such amazing team, OMA architects for the venue and fantastic Frederic Sanchez who makes soundtracks. They still have very strong position because of that. They are still admired by the industry. You can see other designers wearing Prada and coming for the shows like Raf Simons, Jonathan Anderson, Marc Jacobs... The main problem now is they are trying a bit too hard with impressive campaigns and cast, unnecesarry collaborations, weird red carpet gowns and of course with the heavy styling. Everything in fashion right now is about the styling and the attitude, even Prada, but they should back to not looking at what other brands are doing and be just themselves, no-socialmedia brand like they used to be.

 

[liberty33r1b]

http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702304231204576403680967866692

this article from 2011 states that 20% of their collections is made in China (who knows how much it is now) and it's no secret that in the meantime their prices have gone up considerably and quality (especially of bags ) has declined.....

 

[CholoChic]

i think: boring clothes = bad sales, Prada shows were very interesting but last collections I forgot Prada.

 

[eizhowa]

Prada has a few major issues right now:

1. The brand is redefined too often. The constant and complete change of image every season is too much for consumers, by the time shoppers are caught up and ready to shop a new collection is in stores with a different direction. The shift each season is too drastic, the brand is unable to form a solid brand identity.

2. Lack of "It" accessories. It has been over a decade since Prada had a true it bag with the nylon collection and about half a decade since they had a hit accessory with shoes and sunglasses from the Spring 2011 collection. I am sure the Galleria Bag does well but not great. For almost any luxury brand there HAS to be a successful and robust accessory line to carry the brand and Prada does not have that right now.

3. They do not have a strong enough ecommerce presence; apparel is absent from their own online store and only a few stockists sell a few pieces of the collection online. It is 2016 it is just sheer foolish for a brand of Prada's size and visibility to lack a proper online store.

4. They need better brand ambassadors and PR. I am by no means saying they have to sell their souls to the devil and give into the insta girls, but they need more vibrant and younger famous faces for the brand. As of now the brand is surviving on its clout alone but it is failing to bring in new customers. It is a very old image right now and that has to change.

Wait, Prada has ambassadors? Who?

I personally love Chanels ambassadors (well, some of them). They are the only ones who can make the clothes look wearable. Prada could need some of that in my opinion...

 

[haydn]

You'll finally be able to get your Prada fix online, thanks to Net-a-Porter and Mytheresa.com.

Starting July 15, the online shopping sites will sell Prada merchandise in Europe. The products include prefall and fall runway pieces along with shoes, bags, and small leather goods. In addition, Mr. Porter (the men's online retailer linked with Net-a-Porter) will begin selling tailored menswear pieces, footwear, and accessories starting September 6.
The launch has been long awaited as Prada doesn't officially sell its ready-to-wear merchandise online. Your best bet at finding pieces from the current season before the aforementioned launches would have been department-store websites, such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus (the company that owns MyTheresa.com), but the selection there focuses on bags and shoes rather than runway pieces.

According to WWD, runway styles attracted Net-a-Porter to the idea of selling the Prada collection. "The [fall 2016] show ticked every box across every different category," Sarah Rutson, the vice president of global buying, told WWD. "It had that pioneering spirit, but it's also going to sell."

Net-a-Porter has partnered with multiple fashion brands that have long eschewed e-commerce in the past. Last year, the company secured an online exclusive with Chanel's capsule jewelry collection, dubbed Coco Chanel—the first time the French brand has sold anything other than beauty products online.

source; allure.com

Looks like somebody finally had some common sense to get online with the rest of the world. At this day in age, if you aren't distributing your collections online in some form you're out of touch with how consumers shop. Prada doesn't even have images of their ready to wear online, just shoes and bags. This will be a huge leap forward for them. Good choice to work with Net-A-Porter and MyTheresa. If I were them I'd also work with a few smaller sites that have a bit more cultural influence, like Ssense, Collette, etc... But this is a great start!

It will also give everyone access to their runway pieces which are so limited in distribution. Most stores I've been to around the world carry such a limited amount of fashion; basic knits and shirts, denim, nylon jackets, suiting. I've viewed every Prada runway collection online for ages, yet rarely come across any of the pieces in stores. I think accessibility is key to growth. Not being able to buy something doesn't make me want it more (contrary to what the Vetements boys are saying) - if I can't buy it I don't buy it.

 

[tatouejeremie]

source; allure.com

Looks like somebody finally had some common sense to get online with the rest of the world. At this day in age, if you aren't distributing your collections online in some form you're out of touch with how consumers shop. Prada doesn't even have images of their ready to wear online, just shoes and bags. This will be a huge leap forward for them. Good choice to work with Net-A-Porter and MyTheresa. If I were them I'd also work with a few smaller sites that have a bit more cultural influence, like Ssense, Collette, etc... But this is a great start!

It will also give everyone access to their runway pieces which are so limited in distribution. Most stores I've been to around the world carry such a limited amount of fashion; basic knits and shirts, denim, nylon jackets, suiting. I've viewed every Prada runway collection online for ages, yet rarely come across any of the pieces in stores. I think accessibility is key to growth. Not being able to buy something doesn't make me want it more (contrary to what the Vetements boys are saying) - if I can't buy it I don't buy it.

i noticed the broken arm in paris is already selling prada menswear online http://the-broken-arm.com/en/126_prada

 

[vetements]

Prada is still quirky and I like that. Perhaps what needs to be changed would be the shopfront, the mint green interior has been ongoing for a while so what they need is a hedi slimane of sorts to revamp these to create some buzz and refresh it a little (yes, just a little will do).

Miuccia is still the amazing designer she is and she has great ideas just that her ideas need to be communicated in larger doses to a bigger audience, especially the 20 somethings to ensure continuity and then longevity.

as for not having an it bag, i actually admire her for this, it keeps the focus on the clothes and not the bags. Although despite that, i am quite sure the bulk of the money still comes from selling bags and accessories than clothes.

her designs, color blocks ideas and mix and match are still top notch in the industry to me...