At Nina Ricci, Lars Nilsson ramped up the Parisian chic attitude the house is known for, while still keeping his pre-fall line tight and cohesive. Meanwhile, Alberta Ferretti was inspired by "La Dolce Vita" for her sophisticated suits, trapeze coats and playful jeweled dresses. Speaking of playful, Moschino designer Rossella Jardini is feeling the same way, as demonstrated by her trompe l'oeil knits and the ultrafeminine, sexy silhouettes she cut from traditional English men's wear fabrics. In Milan, Giambattista Valli's first pre-fall collection focused on separates with an urban-chic twist, as well as contrasting proportions such as softly constructed jackets and hand-knitted sweaters over lean pants and skirts.
No doubt couture's grandeur keeps Paris enthralled. However this week a handful of designers took the opportunity to remind everyone that the real bucks are in ready-to-wear, and not on the runway but in the ever-growing pre-collections. Alber Elbaz was the first clever designer to horn in on the couture schedule, and the Lanvin pre-fall collection he showed on Monday was wonderfully elegant and refined. Elbaz gave spring's shapely silhouette "a little air," he explained, "so it always looks like you just lost weight." Jersey jackets cut with cardigan-like ease and drop-waisted dresses that flared at the hips hinted at a spare, chic look for the season to come. Meanwhile, at Azzaro, Vanessa Seward's pre-collection gave off a smart Forties vibe with shirtdresses trimmed in metallic piping and a sassy Oscar contender done up at the waist with a crystal bow.
An alluring ease marks some of pre-fall's best looks. At Christian Dior, John Galliano is taking a modern, artisanal approach to luxury with flowing silhouettes and a fixation on fur. Stefano Pilati moved in a new direction with his collection for Yves Saint Laurent, concentrating on both tailored and softer, less constructed silhouettes for all occasions, from sporty (i.e., hand-painted shearling jackets) to grand evening (i.e., high-waist ballgowns). And while Emanuel Ungaro's new designer, Peter Dundas, won't show his first collection until Paris Fashion Week, the pre-fall lineup — designed by the in-house team — suggests a cleaner, more restrained direction, still with a dressy bent.
Akris may be known for its sophisticated simplicity, but for pre-fall, designer Albert Kreimler takes things up a notch with coats and jackets in luxe fabric. And in his first pre-fall collection for Luca Luca, Luca Orlandi goes for rich tweed suits, lace-embroidered evening dresses and leopard-print skirts that, he says, recall "the early days of Halston."
Estella Mare said:the styling is always very safe with these pre-collections, no?