Raf Simons Leaving Christian Dior; Maria Chiuri Rumored In

[dcmaike]

Elbaz at Dior would be great!

 

[gossiping]

http://www.businessoffashion.com/ar...want-to-do-collections-where-im-not-thinking?

 

[Fashionstuff]

Source Businessoffashion.com

"What are you going to do? Walk out of the office at 8 o’clock at night? No, of course not. So you stay there until midnight. That’s the life. So we created two design teams. Each group has a person in charge, and these people are fantastic. If Team A is working on cruise, then Team B is working on July couture. Then Team A will start working on the Fall ready-to-wear show. So each group does one couture show and one ready-to-wear show."

"How many people on a team?"

"Purely designers? About seven or eight."

After some direction from Raf, a team will begin gathering research — mood boards, books. He and Pieter will then choose things they feel are worth developing.

Sincerely, i don't like Raf Simons.
What did he think? Not everyone, only some persons, have the possibility to make the job which they really love, in case of Simons be at the helm of the best Label, have all possibilities, have more own Label and more wanted to have a free time to walk with his friend? Sorry but the tension is in every industry, it is a real life. A lot of people must do Job which they hate, must do everything what Boss tells , works till midnight, have no time for privat life and all this for some Money which are enough only for life and pay bills and the end of month? Or maybe i mistake?
What did he wait when he accept this Position? To be at the helm of Dior is not for everybody. see whats happen with Alber Elbaz after 14 years of his Job in Lanvin!!!!!!
I want see where he will arrived wiht his own Label if he will work only when he wants spending the rest of time at home or in Disneyland.

 

[Marc10]

^If that's what you took out from the article then I suggest you read it again.

Nowhere in there he said he wants to "work only when he wants". He was criticising the pace in which designers are supposed to work nowadays. They don't have enough time to properly develop ideas, they need to pull together far too many collections in a very small amount of time. It's becoming overbearing, not just for him at that point, but for everyone else. And what's so bad about him wanting to actually, you know, live his life along the way? They're not slaves. And an essential part of being a designer, a creator is having time to have experiences, travel, see things that will eventually inspire them to come back and translate into their work. Perhaps he did had a bit of a naive idea of what's like to work for a brand like Dior, but I think any designer would also find it demanding and that the industry as whole is going a wrong direction. If he wanted, he COULD have stayed at Dior and continuing that kind of work pace for many years and accepted what it is, but he didn't. And i'm very glad he didn't, because he doesn't need to.

 

[Fashionstuff]

^If that's what you took out from the article then I suggest you read it again.

Nowhere in there he said he wants to "work only when he wants". He was criticising the pace in which designers are supposed to work nowadays. They don't have enough time to properly develop ideas, they need to pull together far too many collections in a very small amount of time. It's becoming overbearing, not just for him at that point, but for everyone else. And what's so bad about him wanting to actually, you know, live his life along the way? They're not slaves. And an essential part of being a designer, a creator is having time to have experiences, travel, see things that will eventually inspire them to come back and translate into their work. Perhaps he did had a bit of a naive idea of what's like to work for a brand like Dior, but I think any designer would also find it demanding and that the industry as whole is going a wrong direction. If he wanted, he COULD have stayed at Dior and continuing that kind of work pace for many years and accepted what it is, but he didn't. And i'm very glad he didn't, because he doesn't need to.

I readed it complete. Of course he is free to do anything he want. Maybe he wasa litle bit naive to think that in Dior he will have time for creativity, for ideas ect. Same time he is not a newcomer so he might-could imagine how this business in last years works.
Many designers ad not only them,works hard.
I don't know and i don't have any rights also to suppose why he left Dior, maybe he wanted only have more free time and design how he likes, maybe he started to feel too tiered.
I wrote yet, i don't know and i don't have any rights to suppose.
3 and half years , he didn't renewed his contract but he will design for his own Label. He left Dior very "elegant" , nothing to say about it. He didn't do selies as Wang did.
He had no Problems, nobody put him out , like i happen with Alber Elbaz. So what?
I didn't like wht he created in his Dior time.
I don't know Mr. Simons, many Person described him as very charming Person . But slowly, after all this interviews he gave i started to dislike him ( an not only the dresses he had created for Dior) and i think i'm not alone.

Lanvin had been using 14 years Elbaz Talent and after put him out. He didn't give all this inteviews one after another.

 

[Thefrenchy]

I readed it complete. Of course he is free to do anything he want. Maybe he wasa litle bit naive to think that in Dior he will have time for creativity, for ideas ect.

I'm sorry but... You do realize that fashion designers are creative people who NEED to find inspiration (thus need time) to enhance their creativity, right? If so, how is that "naive" from Raf?

 

[Marc10]

I'm sorry but... You do realize that fashion designers are creative people who NEED to find inspiration (thus need time) to enhance their creativity, right? If so, how is that "naive" from Raf?

Exactly! How can we say that designers don't need time to develop ideas? That's crazy. And you know, we see all the time here at TFS and elsewhere that fashion is getting boring, that we don't see enough creativity... well, this is the reason why! The creative minds are simply not having the time to be creative, weather is because of too many collections in a year or this constant pressure for commercial appeal. I'm glad Raf is speaking out about this, I hope it creates a bigger discussion within the industry. Because honestly, if things go on like this, we might be seeing cases like Galliano's happening again.

Lanvin had been using 14 years Elbaz Talent and after put him out. He didn't give all this inteviews one after another.

What "all these interviews"? He hasn't given a single one after the announcement. This one was done months before it. And also, he's not criticizing Dior the company. He's criticizing the industry. What he said can also be applied to Chanel, Givenchy, Gucci, etc. His departure from Dior has been very peaceful, nowhere near Nicolas' fallout with Balenciaga for example.

 

[george5]

A lot of things Raf said are unsurprising, some of them come as obvious, in my opinion. For example, the S/S and F/W both Couture were made by different design teams that worked separately, because the S/S collections were much better in terms of craftsmanship, editing, styling, etc.

I think He was quite naive, too much maybe because You don’t have to be a big insider to know that such fashion house is extremely demanding and time-consuming but, I’ll say it again, good for him to realize on time that things got too complicated; He had the best intentions for Dior and made a nice transition from the mess left by Galliano.

 

[Littleathquakes]

the mess left by Galliano?! If anything, Raf's departure highlights what led to Galliano's demise in the first place.

 

[Creative]

It's obvious that he didn't like what he did at Dior. He complains about bland fashion yet that was what Dior was all about when he was at the helm. Know I think I 'understand' him. He knows what he did was sort of trash.

What is funny was reading all his fanboys this whole time defending collections done in three weeks with almost no research process and no nothing. Fashion is a flock of sheep.

One team creating one collection, one different team another one. And we thought Dior had no direction... EVERYTHING MAKES SENSE NOW!

Bravo for speaking his mind out. And now we have the reasons why Dior was such a mess. Hope Alber can cope with it... But doing a collection in three weeks sounds vile. And he's been complaining about that a lot. It will be weird.

 

[Pricciao]

Your wishful thinking is so joyful to read hon.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

the mess left by Galliano?! If anything, Raf's departure highlights what led to Galliano's demise in the first place.

this is exactly what i was thinking. i mean Galliano was there years before he had a meltdown, plus he was designing for his own line. I mean it just goes to show you what a heavy load these designers have on them.

I wonder if Raf is biting his tongue now from his earlier comments about Galliano when he first took over. He literally is only proving the point of what a burden on your personal life it is to be a designer for such a large house. of course you're going to crack. Good for Raf being able to leave before it got to that point. im sure galliano's contract prohibited him from doing so

 

[Fashionstuff]

I'm sorry but... You do realize that fashion designers are creative people who NEED to find inspiration (thus need time) to enhance their creativity, right? If so, how is that "naive" from Raf?

Of course i realize. All creative people needs inspirations, sometimes they have it, sometimes not and it's not only the question of time , one day can have 1000 ideas and after, maybe for monthes any ideas at all.
Perhaps he thought he will have all time he needs because of Dior, i mean such a big Brand, one of the biggest, the jewel in the crown of French fashion.

^If that's what you took out from the article then I suggest you read it again.

Perhaps he did had a bit of a naive idea of what's like to work for a brand like Dior, but I think any designer would also find it demanding and that the industry as whole is going a wrong direction. If he wanted, he COULD have stayed at Dior and continuing that kind of work pace for many years and accepted what it is, but he didn't. And i'm very glad he didn't, because he doesn't need to.

 

[Fashionstuff]

What "all these interviews"? He hasn't given a single one after the announcement. This one was done months before it. And also, he's not criticizing Dior the company. He's criticizing the industry. What he said can also be applied to Chanel, Givenchy, Gucci, etc. His departure from Dior has been very peaceful, nowhere near Nicolas' fallout with Balenciaga for example.

Under "all these interviews" i mean not the time "After leaving Dior" but the time he was at the helm. Maybe "interviews" is also a wrong word, can tell all articles wrote about and his intervews.

Simons was very optimistic at the beginning :
For example, Vogue.co.uk ,there is one article and his interview, it was some kind of converstation :

Source : vogue.co.uk

07 December 2012
by Ella Alexander

Raf Simons’ Dior Revolution


RAF SIMONS' focus in changing the face of Dior is to make it a brand that is "worn on the street". The move contrasts strongly to predecessor John Galliano's dramatic aesthetic - a style, the Belgian designer says, that Christian Dior himself would not have been happy with.

"Dior's ultimate obsession is that he wanted [the public] to wear it. I want them to wear it on the street," he told Alexandra Shulman in the January issue of Vogue. "If it doesn't relate to the outside, then it would be very theatrical for me."


Simons, who was named the fashion house's creative director in April this year, wants to develop "a code" for the brand - introducing distinctive signature qualities that people will instantly recognise. He names Chanel as an example of a brand that has desirable accessible signatures.


"The Chanel woman? I don't even need to see, I smell her from round the corner, but I don't recognise the Dior woman," he said. "I want to work on that fast. Chanel has the deux-pièces with the pockets, or the bouclé, but what is it for Dior nowadays? I can't say."

Source : vogue.co.uk

He names Chanel, so what about Karl? How many years, how many Brands he has to manage? And how young Karl is?
And i'm not sure that Simons creations are wearble on the street.
Simons did good, he left Dior , he made a good contract which gives him possiility simply to leave Dior.

He didn't try to stay more 3 years and try to make changes which he so wanted to make.

The times changed, and sure not only in last 2-3 years but before. Not every designer can stay under tension.
Another ones wants to focused only on their own brands, as Alexander Wang or also Raf Simons does.
Jean Paul Gaultier has simply cancel ready-to-wear and will design for his Label only haute Couture collections.
John Galliano succseed to come back and his comeback was- is great.

Everyone is free to have his own opinion, to like or dislike collections, designers, ect.

 

[Marc10]

What is funny was reading all his fanboys this whole time defending collections done in three weeks with almost no research process and no nothing. Fashion is a flock of sheep.

Well, as a "fanboy" (yuck) I still praise his collections for Dior, just like many, MANY people do. And if anything, this is huge testament of what a fantastic designer he is, the fact that even under a messy environment he still managed to deliver great work.

 

[Lola701]

I'm a bit tired of that Raf thing. As Lagerfeld said, if you're not for it, just don't do it.
It's obvious that this is a big issue in fashion right now but sorry if i'm wrong, he knew he signed with DIor...I mean, it's DIOR! Not GENNY, CALLAGHAN or GUY LAROCHE!

I really think that he is very talented and i will always love the clothes i have from the time he was at Jil and his accessories at Dior but i don't want to defend him anymore.

I just went to see the Dior ss2016 thread and it was almost funny to see myself explaining the obvious.
He wasn't the right fit for Dior period! I love the fact that he admitted in a way that he wasn't good for that. He allowed them to go to a much more modern direction so it's not a complete loss.

Every designer needs to have time to think and experiment but it's a matter of how to manage your time and inspirations.
Who said that Prefall needs to be total opposite of FW and that every collection needs to be different?
I don't understand when he said that he didn't have time to process or develop his ideas...One idea started in prefall can be developped in the FW collection. A lot of designers are doing that...

So i hope he will find a good house for him, i want him at Helmut Lang.

 

[perhydrol]

Who said that Prefall needs to be total opposite of FW and that every collection needs to be different?
I don't understand when he said that he didn't have time to process or develop his ideas...One idea started in prefall can be developped in the FW collection. A lot of designers are doing that...

Dior went into that direction... kind of. They started to use their couture as a starting point for their p-a-p so Raf could develop his ideas in a way. But actually they could design one big collection and divide it between Resort and Spring for example. Balmain has been using cruise pieses for the main shows too so there's a lot of different options.

 

[Fashionstuff]

I'm a bit tired of that Raf thing. As Lagerfeld said, if you're not for it, just don't do it.
It's obvious that this is a big issue in fashion right now but sorry if i'm wrong, he knew he signed with DIor...I mean, it's DIOR! Not GENNY, CALLAGHAN or GUY LAROCHE!

I really think that he is very talented and i will always love the clothes i have from the time he was at Jil and his accessories at Dior but i don't want to defend him anymore.

I just went to see the Dior ss2016 thread and it was almost funny to see myself explaining the obvious.
He wasn't the right fit for Dior period! I love the fact that he admitted in a way that he wasn't good for that. He allowed them to go to a much more modern direction so it's not a complete loss.

Every designer needs to have time to think and experiment but it's a matter of how to manage your time and inspirations.
Who said that Prefall needs to be total opposite of FW and that every collection needs to be different?
I don't understand when he said that he didn't have time to process or develop his ideas...One idea started in prefall can be developped in the FW collection. A lot of designers are doing that...

So i hope he will find a good house for him, i want him at Helmut Lang.

Agree 100 % !!!!

 

[Creative]

I sort of agree with Lola, too, but three weeks for a Dior collection sounds totally ridiculous. And he says at the beggining he had more time (8 weeks I think) and he still thought it was not that much. Seven people for... how many garments? How many toiles can you do in three weeks to get the things right? To me it sounds totally crazy.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Yes Creative, it is ridiculous and kind of crazy but i have the feeling that Raf made it even more complicated for himself.
He said had 2 design teams and that in those teams, he had groups that worked only for one show: 1 for couture, another for RTW.
So, Dior tried to please him by making his process "easier". And i'm sorry but his last few collections weren't that warmly received and IMO were weak in terms of cohesion.
When you compare collections like his last Prefall and his last Resort, it's basically the same clothes, the same silhouettes, the same patterns. The only difference was that in Fall, you have coats and that he played with the sequined t-shirts to make it more fresh.

I don't want to put Karl's name again or Riccardo but just look at someone like Miuccia Prada. She works in the same way as Raf. She is in charge of 10 collections a year, 10! AND SHE MANAGED TO DO HER ARTS PROJECTS.
And we can say that she doesn't do Couture but as couture is becoming more practical and RTW being more and more detailed, for me it's almost the same.

We can't say that she doesn't develop ideas. She has reintroduced old ideas or even developped something she has started at Prada in the MiuMiu show.

It's the business. You have to choose your way to make it work or be independent and do whatever you want. Dries doesn't do resort or Prefall, Tom doesn't present his Pre-collections and he had the luxury to escape and shoot a movie, Alaia is doing him. At Dolce they are not even trying to differenciate their collections anymore..

Sadly enough, no one in such a big position will be courageous to change the system. Miuccia & Karl are the only one IMO who can do that but unfortunately, they have found their formula.