Raf Simons Mens F/W 06.07 Paris

[Honey~Blade]

DSM stocks Raf?

 

[tuomas]

I came back from Paris this morning and the only thing I can still think about is this show, excluding seeing Patti Smith at Ann Dem.
Raf was just impeccable and seemed so modern compared to all that bow-tied boredom at Lanvin & YSL. These are real clothes for real life unlike the theatrical Dracula stuff at Dior Homme...I have a nasty feeling that the coats and boots will ruin me financially.

 

[battles]

they do, on the 2nd floor. i bought a sweater from aw05-06 the last time i was there. like tuomas said, they have a proper range of selection there.

 

[faust]

Colette, but you'd better make your order now. They sell most of the gear before it hits the shopfloor. Kabuki on Etienne Marcel has had RS for the past 2 seasons, but the selection sucks big time...For a proper range of Raf, take a Eurostar to Londres and hit Dover St Market!

Antwerp is closer

 

[travolta]

i would wear these clothes.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

This is turning out to be a huge critical smash. Cathy Horyn campared Raf as "the Azzedine Alaia for men". A pretty big compliment

A few minutes into Mr. Simons's show last week, Michael Roberts, the fashion editor of The New Yorker, whispered, "He's become what Azzedine is to women's clothes." He meant that, like Azzedine Alaïa, Mr. Simons is a modern pathfinder. His clothes have a rightness that is derived from an understanding of proportion and, in his case, an uncomplicated sense of masculinity.

The moment before Mr. Roberts spoke, a model passed by in a long charcoal coat, its sides notched like a tailcoat. Yet it was not a tailcoat; Mr. Simons had inserted panels in the front. It's fine to give men more formality, he seemed to be saying, but it's not progress if it just puts them in a costume.

Like Mr. Alaïa, Mr. Simons moves fashion forward in ways that are bracingly logical. Unhysterical. For instance, if you had gone to Mr. Alaïa's studio in the Marais over the weekend, you would have seen a series of long black skirts in jersey mousseline that had been ruched by hand, creating rippling pleats, and were inset with a band of white lace that had been dulled by a layer of black lace. Ruching has dominated Mr. Alaïa's thinking for a good three years, and each new effort seems to clear and refresh his mind for the next.

Mr. Simons also believes in staying with an idea. A year ago he introduced more volume in his clothes, cutting pants and coats fuller, and offering a new version of the Eisenhower jacket, which led him this season to the long charcoal coat.

At the same time he let go of the adolescent questions that had thrummed around his collections. He was nearing the end of his 30's. What was the point? Romantic, sweet-natured, boneheaded youth was behind him, and once he decided to focus on proportion and shape, grown-up thoughts, he could not go back to the other attitude without looking foolish or condescending.

-Cathy Horyn of the NY Times, published Feb 2, 2006

 

[faust]

This is turning out to be a huge critical smash. Cathy Horyn campared Raf as "the Azzedine Alaia for men". A pretty big compliment

I wonder how this happened. She had no idea who he was, but she has always fawned over Prada, for whatever reasons (she genuinly loves it? she gets kickbacks from NYT for bringing in advertising?). After Bertelli picked him up she went to interview Raf and fell in love with him all of a sudden. Now this. I may be paranoid, but I wonder Ms. Horyn's degree of sencerity. In my opinion, this was not an objective positive review - it was a fawning one, and she's a master of that.

 

[droogist]

^ Well, to be fair to Cathy, that's not quite true...if I'm not mistaken, she first crawled up Raf's butt when she reviewed his S/S 2005, which was about a year before he signed with Prada.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

compared*

 

[faust]

^ Well, to be fair to Cathy, that's not quite true...if I'm not mistaken, she first crawled up Raf's butt when she reviewed his S/S 2005, which was about a year before he signed with Prada.

Oh, really? I didn't know that. I don't think I followed her writing at that time.

 

[Blackalicious]

mmm...
seems like jil is having more influence on raf than raf is having at jil...
this is HEAVILY influenced...



don't know how happy bertelli will be about it though...
since i think this will easily outsell the jil sander line...
...



.......................................

 

[Froogal Joo]

Some of it's quite good, but I don't understand jumpers. Only the bullied wear jumpers. That weird zip jacket is definitely ruddy weird, and only the demented would wear it.

And collarless shirts are for those with no dignity.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Jil Sander reaches a totally different market than Raf Simons though. They will do a lot of competing in major cities where Simons is available, otherwise there shouldn't be an issue. You can get Sanders in almost every large city, in the States at least (New York, LA, Chicago, Seattle, Atlanta, Miami, San Diego, etc). It's a well known label as well. With Simons it's a bit tricky. I suppose that's what Bertelli wanted, a more mainstream Raf Simons line, to take his aesthetic places Raf can't go with his own label and profit from it. If the reactions Simons' show is anything to gauge the situation, buyers may start to pass on Jil and just get Simons instead, that I could see happening.

 

[faust]

Some of it's quite good, but I don't understand jumpers. Only the bullied wear jumpers. That weird zip jacket is definitely ruddy weird, and only the demented would wear it.

And collarless shirts are for those with no dignity.

Can you extrapolate this further?

Now we know that

a) jumpers are only for the bullied
b) zip jackets are only for the demented
c) collarless shirts are for those with no dignity

Can you do this for all types of garments? That would be ruddy cool.

 

[Buckwheat]

Originally Posted by Froogal Joo
And collarless shirts are for those with no dignity.

and how many people and countries you have just offended with your statement???

 

[kLm]

and how many people and countries you have just offended with your statement???

...he says un-ironically, missing out on the whole "Frugal Jew" thing.

 

[justinelm]

Can you extrapolate this further?

Now we know that

a) jumpers are only for the bullied
b) zip jackets are only for the demented
c) collarless shirts are for those with no dignity

Can you do this for all types of garments? That would be ruddy cool.

lmao!

 

[new_dawn_fades]

...I don't understand jumpers. Only the bullied wear jumpers(??). That weird zip jacket is definitely ruddy weird, and only the demented would wear it.blink:)

And collarless shirts are for those with no dignityblink: x 10000000).

...celebrity style is on another thread girl, this is for those with taste! .... but u made my day by "trying" to have a go at raf simons....!!..

 

[new_dawn_fades]

Can you do this for all types of garments? That would be ruddy cool.

gotta love it mate! karma for u faust!!

 

[chicgarcon]

beautiful show, and silhouettes..

but must the models always be so hideous looking?...gross. I'm so bored of this re-using of models...ethnic speaking- couldnt he have found more attractive models then the 2 he used..?

(credit: style.com)

i'm tired of this model already..