Raf Simons Mens F/W 06.07 Paris

[Orochian]

Who do you think it's influenced by? Like Scott said, this is definitely much more going back to his roots, to his collections before he "retired" in SS01 rather than being influenced (unless, of course he is going back to whatever influenced him when he started designing - a little Jil and Helmut, maybe?) -- sharp tailoring, and a beautiful mix of mature and young.

I see a significant portion of faust's income going into this

In a way I think I would've liked him a lot more if he just stuck to his forte. His preoccupations with the youth culture after he "came back" a few years ago have become really tiresome (you know, his usual entourage of "dissaffected youth" metaphors with ugly, unwearable pieces) and I'm really glad this collection has somewhat signalled an end to that. Or at least a much more sensible tempering of his preoccupations.

After Helmut Lang went kaput I'm so ready for Raf to step up and fill that void in my heart.

 

[faust]

sorry...
i thought it was obvious...
he has just spent months scouring and memorizing the jil sander archives...
if this is what early raf looked like...
then early raf looked a LOT like early jil...

maybe that's what got him the job in the first place?...

I don't know. Except the cut of the pants, which are perfect - not too slim, not too wide, I don't see any connections with Jil. Not the knitwear, not the coats, not the jackets.

 

[softgrey]

I don't know. Except the cut of the pants, which are perfect - not too slim, not too wide, I don't see any connections with Jil. Not the knitwear, not the coats, not the jackets.

to be fair though...
didn't you say you weren't all that familiar with jil's earlier work faust?...

how far back does firstview go with men's collections?...
i wonder if any of jil's earliest stuff is available for viewing...

this just looks a bit familiar...
as tott said...not identical...but there is some definite overlap...

 

[faust]

to be fair though...
didn't you say you weren't all that familiar with jil's earlier work faust?...

how far back does firstview go with men's collections?...
i wonder if any of jil's earliest stuff is available for viewing...

this just looks a bit familiar...
as tott said...not identical...but there is some definite overlap...

I've seen her work from late 90's on, so yea, it's hard to say - but you can tell me what resemblences you see

 

[softgrey]

it's the overall silhouette....
the narrow leg and then boxy sort of jkt...
or 3/4 coat...
also some of the narrow lapels...
the shoulder...

it's the proportions...THAT's what it is...
that is what is ringing a bell for me...
and that is what is reminding me of jil...

but i like it...i do...
as i said...it would seem that jil was probably one of raf's inspirations from the early days of his work...

actually...
i'm not all that familiar with raf's early work...
so i have to just take the word of you folks that this looks like he's going 'back to his roots'...
to me it just looks like he went to the jil sander archives and mixed it with his own aesthetic and came up with this...

i'd love to see somes of his early work in that case......

 

[Bidwell]

I think the more adventerous will buy Raf and Prada will outfit the conservative brigade in a similar silhouette. He's done very well in addressing two markets and making headway with his vision on a broader base. The power!

 

[softgrey]

bidwell...get out of my head......
i couldn't agree more...


...

 

[andrew]

Time to start saving the pennies. I need some pants and jackets haha

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I feel as thought Raf's work has stayed constant throught his entire career. He's experimented around but really he's kept to the same tried and true methods every season. The Sander influence I believe is evident with this collection but I think has more to do with us knowing he has been sifting through the archives intently. I also think these are for a much different audience besides just age. Jil Sander has a mainstream appeal by availabilty alone. It competes for more fashionable men but also a really conventional (albeit wealthy) one as well. You can go to a mall in America and find it (there's a stand alone store in Atlanta!). I think that difference is reflected in the clothes. Sander is definitely older but also speaks to a more general audience. Simon's own line keeps it's high fashion allure although I think this is one of his most approachable collections to date.

What I like about Simons (and this is especially true for his work for Jil Sander) is how effortless his clothes are, even the more extreme garments. You don't have to work or plan to make them work. I wonder if that will carry through to Sander's womenswear.

 

[faust]

it's the overall silhouette....
the narrow leg and then boxy sort of jkt...
or 3/4 coat...
also some of the narrow lapels...
the shoulder...

it's the proportions...THAT's what it is...
that is what is ringing a bell for me...
and that is what is reminding me of jil...

but i like it...i do...
as i said...it would seem that jil was probably one of raf's inspirations from the early days of his work...

actually...
i'm not all that familiar with raf's early work...
so i have to just take the word of you folks that this looks like he's going 'back to his roots'...
to me it just looks like he went to the jil sander archives and mixed it with his own aesthetic and came up with this...

i'd love to see somes of his early work in that case......

This is what I was thinking about - it's my favorite Raf collection.

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forum...1999-menswear-26183.html?highlight=raf+simons

 

[Fade to Black]

This is what I was thinking about - it's my favorite Raf collection.

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/f60/raf-simons-f-w-1999-menswear-26183.html?highlight=raf+simons

Awesome collection. Is this the collection that Buckwheat's zippered coat is from?

Love the proportions, the clean, futuristic tailoring...this collection predates Solitaire and I wouldn't be surprised if some of it formed the blueprint for that collection.

 

[nqth]

Talking about proportions of the silhoutte, I think RS's jkts and coats were thin and long:-), white JS's are rather wider and shorter. Raf cut is very graphic, the surface is rough and the colours are sharp. JS always had a softer touch in my eyes, and she seemed to use "thicker, more padded" but soft fabrics, and it did make the forms looked interesting. Oh well maybe I alway have her "cocoon" collection in my mind.

I think that the collection Faust posted had a very JS's sweater, but the trousers are not:-P

The playing with details in this collection and the oversize top is very Raf, imo, but the overal is not so extreme like it always was. Softened a bit, darken a bit, it's kind of edgier JS:-)

 

[birdofparadise]

Simply orgasmic. I'm already planning to sell a kidney, cha-ching!

 

[SiennaInLondon]

Other than some extrememly well cut trousers, I am not hugely impressed. Some of the jackets look very dated. But then we have all got so used to the hipster look that Hedi Slimane champions, perhaps it is time we need our eyesight readjusted. Such a sudden jolt is just not going to work though.

 

[Buckwheat]

Originally Posted by Fade to Black
Awesome collection. Is this the collection that Buckwheat's zippered coat is from?

Mine is from Autumn Winter 98-99. Which is FW 98 then I think? Anyway he did that same version or similar(full length, 3/4 length and in different materials) many years back then i think. It was one of his staple piece. And its one of my favorite

Talking about Raf's old collections, I have some pictures that I can scan in from some of my old magazines. I will post them up later. I still in love with his "school boy" look back then...long wool coat, wide leg pants, dirty black painted Converse.

 

[Fade to Black]

Mine is from Autumn Winter 98-99. Which is FW 98 then I think? Anyway he did that same version or similar(full length, 3/4 length and in different materials) many years back then i think. It was one of his staple piece. And its one of my favorite

Talking about Raf's old collections, I have some pictures that I can scan in from some of my old magazines. I will post them up later. I still in love with his "school boy" look back then...long wool coat, wide leg pants, dirty black painted Converse.

Man, I want that coat badly! I feel like it would suit me as well.

 

[Foxie-Pooh]

I love those double layered jackets and coats...but the other stuff is really boring and awkward, like the ill-fitting pants and boxy shirts...

 

[Zazie]

JS is really about a pared-down aesthetic, and like softgrey, I think it's rubbed off on RS - his SS06 collection wasn't anything like this at all. This collection is very nice, fulfills all expectations, but doesn't exceed them. Very good wardrobe updates though

 

[battles]

After Helmut Lang went kaput I'm so ready for Raf to step up and fill that void in my heart.

i feel the same for myself.

yes, of course the ss06 collection wasn't nothing like this but i like to think that it's a refined collection of the two previous a/w collections. seems that the silhouette is just evolving around, with the 'reworked' of the aw05 knitwears. regardless so, i think this is one of his personal's best, one of the strongest collections to date. i'm pretty sure that i'll be picking up the trousers, they are indeed perfect.

 

[tuomas]

Anyone knows if RAF actually has a flagship store here in Paris or where purchase his designs (not counting Luisaviaroma firenze)????

Colette, but you'd better make your order now. They sell most of the gear before it hits the shopfloor. Kabuki on Etienne Marcel has had RS for the past 2 seasons, but the selection sucks big time...For a proper range of Raf, take a Eurostar to Londres and hit Dover St Market!