Runway Makeup F/W 10.11 | the Fashion Spot

Runway Makeup F/W 10.11

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BCBG Max Azria
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Erin Wasson x RVCA
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Vena Cava
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Source: elle.com and style.com
 
Loved make-up @Jen Kao. Pale flawless skin & accentuated eyes- beautiful!!!
 
Rag & Bone

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MAKEUP: Gucci Westman for Revlon
HAIR: Guido Palau for Redken
NAILS: Roxanne for CND
SNAPSHOT: Just rolled out of bed, in the 90s

THE SCOOP: The look at Rag & Bone was very "I don't care," circa 1992. "My inspiration was Kate Moss or Courtney Love -- when she still wore natural looking makeup -- in the 90s, like they just rolled out of bed, said makeup artist Gucci Westman. "Confident, but in a cool, nonchalant way."

That idea translated to smudgily lined eyes a, minimal mascara, subtle blush and supernaturally nude lips. When asked how those of us at home can do the "slept in" look without looking like we should stay in bed, Westman advised to us to apply black eye liner on the inside of the top and lower lash lines. Squeeze your eyes together and go over the base of the lashes with a Q-Tip. "The color will keep transferring down," said Westman. But it'll do so in a pretty, vs a messy way.

Hair stylist Guido Palau used lots of hairspray to give the models a look reminiscent of the early 90s, but with lots of texture. "These girls have a little edge," he said. "They don't look too pretty." He gave models a flat front, and then teased the hair at the crown for messy volume.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: Line the insides of the upper and lower lash lines with Luxurious Color Eye Liner in Black Velvet. She lightly painted the lashes with Double Twist Mascara in Blackest Black, and dotted the lips with ColorBurst Lipstick in Soft Nude.
Source: style.com and stylelist.com
 
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Bobbi Brown @ Yigal Azrouel

Inspired by a collection rich in texture, the makeup for the Fall 2010 Yigal Azrouel collection is about the texture of the skin. Chic, yet effortless, skin is bronzed with emphasis on cheeks, and eyes are softly defined in beige and brown tones. Nude lips complete a fairly monotone, natural look, with the exception of a strong, linear, defined brow.
Makeup How-to
  • Skin: Hydrating Face Cream ($50), Hydrating Eye Cream ($45), Foundation Stick ($40), Creamy Concealer ($22), Corrector ($22)
  • Eyes: Suede Long-Wear Cream Shadow ($22) all over lid, Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner in Sepia Ink ($21) applied lightly and smudged on upper and lower lashline
  • Cheeks: Bronzing Powder ($40)
  • Lips: Hot Cocoa and Salmon Lip Color ($22 each)
  • Brows: Clean and brushed up with a touch of Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner in Sepia Ink ($21)
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temptalia.com
 
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MAC @ L.A.M.B.

Charlotte Tilbury describes the look at L.A.M.B. as, “The feeling was 1930s prostitute–trampy, smoky eye, deep “rougeoir” lips and beautiful pale skin.”
Makeup How-to
  • Eyes: Eye Kohl in Smolder and Fluidline in Blacktrack – blended and smudged around and into the eyelid for a feline-shaped eye. Lip Treatment – dabbed on eyelid over eye kohl for a wet look effect
  • Face: Face and Body Foundation – Applied all over face to give pale, doll-like skin.
  • Lip: Lipmix in Crimson (PRO only) and Burgundy – Blended together and applied to the lip. Lip Pencil in Burgundy – app lied around the lip to give an over-drawn shape to the mouth.
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temptalia.com
 
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MAC @ Vena Cava

On inspiration, Lloyd Simmonds says, “The designer wanted the girls to look like they spent a day skiing and horseback riding–fresh, flushed but tanned.”
Makeup How-to
  • Eyes: M·A·C Pro Powder Blush in Taupe – Softly brushed along the crease of the eyelid. Style Predator Eye Shadow – Brushed over the whole eyelid. M·A·C Pro Shine Wax – App lied over the eye shadow on the eyelid. M·A·C Pro Lash in Black – Applied only to the upper eyelashes
  • Face: Select Cover-Up Concealer – App lied to the skin as foundation. M·A·C Pro Cream Colour Base in Bronze and Mid-tone Sepia – Brushed across forehead and cheekbones for a slightly windblown effect. M·A·C Pro Shine Wax – Applied over the Cream Colour Base across the bridge of the nose to give a dewy finish.
  • Lips: Lipmix in Red – Applied to the natural shape of the lip, to give a sophisticated, matte mouth
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temptalia.com
 
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Stila / John Frieda @ BCBG Max Azria

Makeup How-to
This look was all about eye drama and nude lips. To get the look – apply eye shadow in Chinois all over your lids as a base. Apply Puppy to your crease as well your lower lash line in an upward motion to create a reverse cat eye look. Use Long Wear Lip Color – In the Nude – to get your perfect nude pout. Use Major Lash Mascara in Black on your lashes and you are ready for the catwalk!
Hair How-to
The modern, asymmetrical ensembles that ruled the runway were completed with a contemporary, sleek hairstyle created by John Frieda International Creative Consultant Harry Josh. “The collection had a clean, modern feel,” says Harry. “I wanted to complement that aesthetic with a very comfortable and effortlessly chic look. The inspiration came from the models themselves, who would come into casting and quickly pull their hair back into a bun. I really wanted to create a look that a woman wearing BCBG would sport herself, since the looks on the runway were also extremely wearable.”
Harry began by applying John Frieda’s Frizz-Ease Take Charge Mousse to dry hair and blow drying, using his fingers instead of a brush to separate the hair from the root and create texture. The technique was crucial to recreating the “pulled back” look any girl would get while styling her own hair. Once the hair was secured in a low pony, Harry added a small amount of John Frieda’s new Root Awakening Strength Restoring Smoothing Lotion to the ends of the hair to ensure the tips were healthy looking and defined. He then wrapped the pony into a twisted bun, leaving the tips of the hair sticking out in a fan-like “fringe.” “The fringe really completed the look made this low, classic bun a modern, chic style,” says Harry.

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temptalia.com
 
Thakoon

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MAKEUP: Diane Kendall for Nars
HAIR: Eugene Souleiman Wella
NAILS: Kim D'Amato of Priti Polish
SNAPSHOT: Modern dancers

THE SCOOP: Thakoon's Fall 2010 collection is inspired by Chopinot & Gaultier's Le Défilé, a dance troupe that collaborated with Jean Paul Gautier for costumes in the 80s and early 90s. "I was inspired by the costumes used in this show and wanted to create a collection that reflected that same era but without the goth element," said designer Thakoon Panichgul.

With such a strong focus, the hair, makeup and nails were kept fresh and simple. "We kept the makeup very natural and luminous," said makeup lead Diane Kendall. Her focus was strong brows, ("After seeing no brows for so long it's refreshing to do them again," said Kendall), along with structural neutrals, to convey depth and boldness without fighting the intricate textures and layers of the clothing.

The hair look was a "destroyed blowdry," matte and bed-heady, with "savage texture," thanks to loads of baby powder sprinkled in, said hair stylist Martin Schmock.

And nails were naked-looking, but matted down with a matte polish so there was zero reflection on the runway. "Thakoon didn't want any attention on the nails, so we took away any chance of shine," said manicurist Kim D'Amato.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All makeup by Nars. Create a strong brow using deep brown Coconut Grove Single Eyeshadow (new for Fall 2010), with a little Bali Single Eyeshadow swept on top. Highlight eyes with Portobello Duo Eyeshadow on and underneath the eyelid. Use Tzarine Duo Eyeshadow (a gorgeously sparkly taupy-gray and pale gold duo that's the new for Fall 2010) on the eyes, the golden shade as a highlighter on the browbone, and the gray shade very lightly on the lids for pretty definition. Cheeks were defined with Douceur Blush (new for Fall 2010 -- try Madly Blush for a similar effect) and lips were made matte and nude with Tashkent Pure Matte Lipstick (new for Fall 2010).

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: Pick a few sections of hair and curl them to create an imperfect wave. Then, spray a bit of talcum powder into the hair and rustle it around to create matte texture.

GET THE LOOK - NAILS: File nails short and polish with Priti Polish in Pretty Loves Matte.
Source: style.com and stylelist.com
 
DKNY

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MAKEUP: Charlotte Tilbury for M.A.C.
HAIR: Eugene Souliman for Wella Professionals (Styling); Eva Scrivo for Wella Professionals (Color)
SNAPSHOT: A high society (yet casually approachable) girl who takes her horse out for a ride on the weekends

THE SCOOP: Known for her trademark take in New York sporty chic, Donna Karen's design for DKNY Fall 2010 centers around long, lean silhouettes in a neutral palette of colors for the active and metropolitan city girl. The beauty look is just as low-maintenance and approachable, with an equestrian-inspired look that sweeps into a low side ponytail that flirtatiously sits over the shoulder.

Unlike most other collections, hair color is also incorporated into the final model look - with custom-blended pieces that were glued to hair using a medical adhesive not unlike eyelash glue, and then set with the cold blast hair dryer button.

"DKNY is about the city, and style that looks organic and casual. This new Wella color I used on the extensions has toner in it, to prevent red molecules from turning brassy - so you get a very sunkissed yet lived-in look. For the everyday woman, clip-in extensions are a great way to try a new color without the damage or commitment," says Scrivo.

Both the natural makeup and casual hair are equestrian-inspired, with a touch of refinement without any of the pretension.

GET THE LOOK MAKEUP - For fall, Studio Sculpt Powders in Bone Beige and Shadowy - which are working names - were used to brighten and gently define eyes. Brown Mascara was applied to the base of lashes only for a hint of color, and groomed brows were kept quietly polished with Clear Brow Finisher. And another new-for-Fall item, Cocochino Lipstick (another working name) was pressed into lips as a nude stain.

GET THE LOOK HAIR - After hair was prepped with System Professional Volumagic and blow dried with a large round brush, Souliman rakes his hands through the hair to loosen waves - finally fastening locks to the side in a low ponytail. System Professional Hypercurl applied to the length of the pony added texture and separation.
Source: WWD.com and stylelist.com
 
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Diane von Furstenberg

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Both Orlando Pita, working with T3 at the show, and James Kaliardos, working with MAC Cosmetics, were inspired by Diane von Furstenberg herself in creating the looks at the designer's show.

"I was particularly inspired by Diane from the Seventies," said Kaliardos, who made his focus the eye. First, he smoothed MAC black cream eyeliner on with a brush from lid to browbone, using it as an eye shadow base. Next, he layered MAC pigments in Steel Blue and Cornflower Blue over the black base to add depth, finishing with Sparkle 3D in silver for runway shimmer. Kaliardos lined the inside of the bottom lid with MAC's Smolder pencil (a deep black).Eyelashes were curled and shaded with MAC's Zoomblack mascara. MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation was applied with a brush for a perfect finish, and lips were deemphasized with MAC's Dim Lip Erase.

Pita was devoted to keeping it real with the hair. "Diane's girls have an individualized look, and this is something that looks like they could have done it themselves," he said. First, Pita spritzed hair with T3's Elevate Spray to hold the set, then wrapped hair around a large-barreled curling iron.Eschewing combs and brushes, he ran his hands through the girls' hair to separate curls and add a real-girl feeling. "I really want girls to forget that whole barrel curls thing," he said. "You know you're in trouble when the Real Housewives of wherever are wearing a style. And the hair shouldn't be more important than the clothes."
Source: WWD.com
 
Behnaz Sarafpour

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MAKEUP: Gordon Espinet for M.A.C
HAIR: Ashley Javier for Kérastase
NAILS: Roxanne Valinoti for CND
Snapshot: Girlish take on feminine elegance

With a Fall 2010 collection inspired by menswear, Sarafpour requested that the beauty look balance the clothing with a soft, feminine and sumptuous feel.

"We wanted a sophistication in the makeup that didn't seem overdone, because that just screams 'office lady,'" says Espinet. The result? Groomed brows, healthy skin and natural touches of makeup that complimented the complexion without overwhelming it - except when it came to the mascara. "I have seven sisters, so I know firsthand that a young girl never knows when to say 'when' with mascara, so we overdid the lashes. It's young and sexy," adds Espinet.

Finger tips followed suit in a neutral milky beige tone, enhanced by a matte topcoat that gave nails a cashmere look and feel.

"The Behnaz woman wants to be a part of something new, so we went for something more cutting edge with the hair," says Javier.The top middle portion of hair was pulled back into a "baby grand beehive," and knotted at the top of the head - with the rest of the hair left full and flowing, styled with a curling iron. "To make it less Toddlers and Tiaras, don't curl the ends of your hair - it looks too perfect. And brush through after curling so your hair picks up the wave in its own way," says Javier.

GET THE LOOK MAKEUP - For a soft look to the skin, Espinet applied Care Essential Oil to hydrate and prep, and made skin flawless with Mineralize SkinFinish Powder. A new caramel bronzer for fall that is yet to be named was blended on cheekbones while Tinted Lip Conditioner in Soothing Beige was dabbed on lips. Lots of black mascara and a touch of clear brow gel finished the look.

GET THE LOOK HAIR - After applying Mouse Nutri-Sculpt to strands and blowing out, the top center of hair was sectioned off and pulled straight back into a knot on the top of the head. A light spritz of Double Hold Hairspray held strands in place without making hair feel crunchy.

GET THE LOOK NAILS - For a soft, textured nail that looks like satin fabric, Valinoti used two coats of Dessert Suede Nail Polish followed with a coat of Super Matte for a lush finish.
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Source: WWD.com and stylelist.com
 
Lela Rose

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MAKEUP: Tina Turnbow and Tarte for Beauty.com
HAIR: Ted Gibson for Beauty.com
NAILS: Deborah Lippmann for Beauty.com
SNAPSHOT:

THE SCOOP: "We're creating a modern French twist," said hair stylist Ted Gibson. "It's the opposite of the classic Upper East Side twist -- disheveled with tons of texture -- for the girl who'd hang out downtown, at the Mercer Hotel, or the new Crosby," he added.

Inspired by a night moon peeking through the clouds, the eye look was a smoky eye, done in shades of blue. "We did eyes in a dusty blue-gray with a little black smudged in, explained makeup artist Tina Turnbow. The rest of the face was kept minimal. "We just used a rally pretty opalescent lip balm," she said.

Nails sparkled, in blue, thanks to Deborah Lippmann's Nail Polish in Across the Universe, a new release for fall. "It was one of those match made in heaven situations," she said, when asked about the color. "I was already doing this shade for fall, and, when I met with the design team to go over the clothing, we realized that she had a fabric in her fall collection that exactly matched it. We thought, let's not be serious, let's just have fun!" She filed nails into a short almond shape (when wearing sparkles, too-long nails are a no no) , and painted on two coats of the blue and green glitter formula, that's set in a sheer navy base.

GET THE LOOK - MAKEUP: All makeup by Tarte. Apply Blue Lagoon Eye Shadow at the center of the top and lower lids. Blend the blue into blue-gray Eye Shadow in Lucy I'm Home at the inner and outer corners. Add SmolderEyes eye liner in the inner rims, and top off with a few coats of Lights, Camera, Lashes! Mascara. Lips got a "moonlit glow" with Slide Tin Lip Balm in Pucker Up.

GET THE LOOK - HAIR: Flip hair over, spritz with volumizing Ted Gibson Build It Spray, and tease at the roots. Then flip back, finger comb hair into a ponytail at the top of the head, twist it, and pin it down to the bottom of the head.

GET THE LOOK - NAILS: Deborah Lippmann Nail Polish in Across the Universe.
Source: WWD.com and stylelist.com
 
Carolina Herrera

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Lavender Looks Backstage at Carolina Herrera
by Julie Naughton

At Carolina Herrera, Diane Kendal, working with MAC Cosmetics, opted for a dark plum smoky eye, using four deep purple MAC eye shadows — Indian Ink, Vibrant Grape, Fig and My Dark Magic — from browbone to lid. Eyes were finished with black mascara on top and bottom lashes. Kendal smoothed foundation all over the face — including the lips — and finished with a pale lavender lip gloss.

Orlando Pita, working with Moroccanoil at the show, kept things simple and elegant. First, he blew the hair dry with Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream to eliminate frizz, then parted hair on the side. He then tucked hair behind models' ears, finishing with Moroccanoil Luminous Hair Spray for strong hold.
Source: WWD.com
 
Donna Karan

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Cherry Pouts Backstage at Donna Karan
by Julie Naughton

Charlotte Tilbury, working with MAC Cosmetics at Donna Karan, based the look on “black-and-white film noir, sort of Greta Garbo meets modern.”

The focus? Red, red lips that Tilbury said were intended to resemble lacquered cherries. “I used a bright cherry MAC lip pencil and MAC Mixing Medium to create a deep red shade, then covered the lips with MAC’s clear Lipglass immediately before the girls hit the runway,” said Tilbury. “There’s almost a pointy quality to the mouth. I’m not into the trout pout anymore — the color and the outlining make the look more interesting and refined.” Skin, first prepped with porcelain-hued foundation, was given a “waxy” quality by applying clear MAC Mixing Medium on cheeks and eyelids. Tilbury next applied blue-gray eye shadow from the socket to the brow, for a shadowlike effect. She eschewed both mascara and blush.

Eugene Souleiman keyed the hair, creating what he called a “classic Donna look” with black plastic headbands he picked up in Paris. “The hair is all about how light reflects off of glossy hair,” he said. “It’s intended to look almost unnaturally perfect and elegant — almost like the girls are mannequins.” Souleiman first sectioned off hair, then dampened it with water at the roots and pulled it back tightly into a ponytail, which he tied with cord. “Hair dampened with water shrinks as it dries,” explained Souleiman. “We wanted a very, very tight look, and with the combination of water and pulling the hair back tightly, this hair is completely smooth.” Next, Souleiman gathered the hair and rolled it around and under chopsticks at the back of the head to create a nontraditional bun. “I didn’t want to do a ballerina bun,” he said.

Wella System Professional Ultimation Shine was sprayed generously on the hair — more heavily toward the front of the head, getting slightly less glossy toward the back of the head. “The light plays on the different amounts of shine, creating different textures,” he said. The look was finished with the headbands, worn at the front of the hairline.

Source: WWD.com
 
Tracy Reese

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High Volume Backstage at Tracy Reese
by WWD Staff

Makeup artist Charlotte Willer for Maybelline New York created what she described as a "masculine-feminine" look lead by a smoky, sparkling eye. To begin, she evened skin tone with Dream Matte Mousse and Mineral Power Natural Perfecting Concealer. The she applied a brown sparkling hue to the entire lid, and a generous amount of mascara to the lashes. A sheer pink shade was dusted on the top of the cheekbones and Color Sensational lipstick in a nude-pink shade, due out in September, was applied to the lips.

Hairstylist Jeanie Syfu for TRESemmé played with texture - lots of it - by setting hair in a figure eight using a 1-inch curling iron, which produced a "soft but edgy texture." She then pinned the curls to set them. From the crown of the head down, she let the hair hang long and gathered into a low ponytail that ran down the shoulder. She then broke up the curl using her fingers and finished the look with 24 Hour Body hair spray.

The Sally Hansen team collaborated with Tracy Reese for the ninth season in a row, creating a lace design to mirror the collection. To begin, acrylic nails were painted with two coats of the putty-colored shade Wet Clay. Then, black Leaver lace was layered on top of the nail for texture.
Source: WWD.com
 

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