Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[LadyJunon]

I believe (correct me if I’m wrong) that he is expected to take the brand from the 10 billion mark to the 15 billion mark, LOL.

How they expect to do that with his vision I have no idea.

Unless they work on revamping, promoting and distributing their beauty and perfume lines, it's not happening. The fact they had the nerve to bid for Tom Ford, when they can't even manage their own brands correctly.

 

[Kanzai]

^^ 10 billion USD to 15 billion AUD ez

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I believe (correct me if I’m wrong) that he is expected to take the brand from the 10 billion mark to the 15 billion mark, LOL.

How they expect to do that with his vision I have no idea.

You're right!

They think they can do it thanks to the menswear and travel/luggage items (they have a dedicated team working on this, with so many items created and available on their website now it's crazy).

 

[velvetandsilk]

^Instead of spending millions on celebrities, they could hire some experts from other industries to bring out the luxury factor in some products. This whole mess is the result of a lack of investment in the company. If they have such ambitious plans then there was no need to fire AM just, start changing the nature of the company. Choose which products will only be available in boutiques then all the margin is for them, not that you see it on sale everywhere.. Take care of the logistics, expand the boutique in Florence so there is some super private service. For cosmetics, hire someone in the industry to see which product sells best then improve the product to make it unique. People sometime buy a shadow palette due to only one shadow, which has a unique colour.

 

[AVC]

From the BOF article it seems like the new product isn’t even in stores yet with such low penetration, the issue isn’t the product itself but that there isn’t any of it to buy in stores…?

The fact that the new line is sold out of several styles means either it’s popular or they didn’t produce enough, and I’m betting on the latter. But still, that doesn’t mean the product won’t sell; majority of styles currently in most markets are still old Gucci that obviously no one wants anymore.

 

[Lola701]

I believe (correct me if I’m wrong) that he is expected to take the brand from the 10 billion mark to the 15 billion mark, LOL.

How they expect to do that with his vision I have no idea.

It’s going to be very difficult.

I think that more than the lack of defined vision from Ancora, there’s a lack of overall vision from François Pinault.

Like him or not, Arnault has a vision for his group and for the brands (I suspect that he may even get rid of some brands *cough*MarcJacobs*cough*).

Is the new Gucci CEO still in interim? Or is he confirmed in his position?

From the BOF article it seems like the new product isn’t even in stores yet with such low penetration, the issue isn’t the product itself but that there isn’t any of it to buy in stores…?

The fact that the new line is sold out of several styles means either it’s popular or they didn’t produce enough, and I’m betting on the latter. But still, that doesn’t mean the product won’t sell; majority of styles currently in most markets are still old Gucci that obviously no one wants anymore.

Ancora is just a small part of the iceberg tbh.
Look at a brand like Dior, when Galliano was fired and between the eras leading to the arrival of Raf Simons or even the arrival of MGC, the brand had a growth.
When the brand is strong and the products are strong, stuff sells.

What the lack of excitement around Ancora shows is that clients won’t run to the stores and crave Gucci.

The reception towards the products does not indicate that sales will grow at the end of the 2024 exercise.

 

[Creative]

In this case I don't think the problem is Sabato. Someone said he's not mature enough. Trust me, when you are appointed CD of Gucci is because you are mature enough.

Tbh, I think he will be used as a palate cleanser. Alessandro Michele's vision was soooooooo strong that time is needed to forget all the overwhelming imagery. It was exhausting and too cheap during the last few years.

I think he will be here for two or three years till they find an aesthetic they would like to go for. But I don't think bosses at Gucci already know where they want to go. It is actually quite hard imo. The stores are ugly, the product feels cheap, the logo is terrible, the monogram is beyond cheap as well... They have nothing interesting to rescue.

They need a Phoebe Philo or a Hedi Slimane and it's not gonna happen.

 

[Creative]

Sometimes that's the problem of wanting to grow by all means... You become too exposed and it ends up being the reason of your death.

Fashion's biggest problem is business growth and not having people that can manage that business growth in a proper and sensitive way. These days I see big companies making terrible decisions short-term and long-term just to be positive vs last year. It's crazy. In my language we say: bread for today, hunger for tomorrow.

Gucci was too greedy. It's always been. They are tasteless decision makers and this is what you get: an aimless company.

Nobody knows what Gucci is at the moment.

 

[Kanzai]

Matthieu Blazy being a CO-CD with Sabato and ...... Stefano Pilati for Bottega Veneta !!! Manifesting

 

[Creative]

Stefano is in talks with a big fast-fashion brand atm...

 

[Lola701]

Matthieu Blazy being a CO-CD with Sabato and ...... Stefano Pilati for Bottega Veneta !!! Manifesting

Stefano is kind of persona non grata at Kering.
You can manifest it but I think Pinault would hire Daniel Lee back before Stefano lol.

Stefano is in talks with a big fast-fashion brand atm...

I bet on Zara

 

[jeanclaude]

Sometimes that's the problem of wanting to grow by all means... You become too exposed and it ends up being the reason of your death.

Fashion's biggest problem is business growth and not having people that can manage that business growth in a proper and sensitive way. These days I see big companies making terrible decisions short-term and long-term just to be positive vs last year. It's crazy. In my language we say: bread for today, hunger for tomorrow.

Gucci was too greedy. It's always been. They are tasteless decision makers and this is what you get: an aimless company.

Nobody knows what Gucci is at the moment.

They are repeating exactly the same mistakes Gucci did back in the 80s...the same mistakes that put the company into near bankruptcy in the early 90s.

Will another Tom Ford come to the rescue in the future?? Or is Gucci doomed?

 

[Olaffo]

I feel like with Gucci now is that it doesn't interest anyone at all: SdS 3 shows so far produced no long-lasting footprint on fashion industry, had lackluster reviews, confusing campaigns and lack of general fuzzy excitement which for example its arch nemesis LV is keeping basically non stop (perfumes, then fashion show, then some super trunks to keep golden medals for Olympics, then some red carpet moment, then some new bag launch etc. etc.). Gucci is fading away every day and I see no point for anyone to go and buy anything from there bc there is no desirability.

 

[Kanzai]

Stefano is kind of persona non grata at Kering.
You can manifest it but I think Pinault would hire Daniel Lee back before Stefano lol.


I bet on Zara

Whatever lol, Idc what jack sh*t Pinault gonna do anymore. I'm so done with Kering

 

[tourbillions]

Stefano is in talks with a big fast-fashion brand atm...

he really hates high fashion now? or did he discover that fast-fashion is a pot of gold?

 

[tricotineacetat]

he really hates high fashion now? or did he discover that fast-fashion is a pot of gold?

When you are in a position like Stefano Pilati, keeping your name 'in the conversation' is the best you can do when you haven't been a CD at a well-known luxury brand for years. His own contemporary fashion brand has very little visibility and it's clear by now it will remain a 'below-the-radar' operation - Certainly not a hype headhunters may think of leveraging on!

 

[NoInvite]

Guys, my first Ancora targeted IG ads. I’m in their target group, I’m honored.
The first bag on the left bottom is 1790Eur. It’s basically SLG.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

I don’t want to be caught dead in ancora Gucci right now.

 

[tricotineacetat]

As I was mentioning elsewhere, I wouldn't mind if Sabato de Sarno's tenure at Gucci would turn out to be a huge fiasco for Gucci, not only to miss the completely delusional targets Kering aimed for but also making them re-think for the future what kind of strategy and designers they want to entrust with such lofty goals.

We all know how negatively the demands of the industry are impacting creativity and when Kering appointed a behind-the-scenes talent like de Sarno instead of choosing an industry veteran with a proven track record, it was a huge gamble - One whose success could leave lasting impact on the importance of actual design talent in the industry.

I would be sorry for the loss of jobs a decrease in sales for Gucci would result in, but the luxury industry has become too fast and greedy, sending wrong aspirations on all ends. Quiet luxury may be an overused word but I think it should go back to less collections, products with lasting quality and value and less hype to sell overpriced merch where every season the product margin can be pressed out more.

 

[AVC]

lack of general fuzzy excitement which for example its arch nemesis LV is keeping basically non stop (perfumes, then fashion show, then some super trunks to keep golden medals for Olympics, then some red carpet moment, then some new bag launch etc. etc.).

I don’t think that’s true - Gucci has been spending TONs on PR, it’s just that it doesn’t seem to be landing. They had a constant rotation of celebrity moments, magazine covers, launches, social media campaigns, etc.

IMO it comes down solely to desirability of the brand, and not the product. Gucci is not desirable right now - and they really need to be doing much more to revise that brand perception. The product will sell if the brand is desirable, no matter how sh*t.