Saint Laurent F/W 13.14 Paris

[Uemarasan]

Perhaps the irony would be brilliant if Slimane sold this collection at the same price point as Zara or Topshop. Full circle.

 

[wednesdays child]

All in all, I must say this is adding a little spice that FW was needing. Can't wait to see what he does next. I don't remember a designer causing so much commotion and strong opinions since... McQueen in the 90's? Let's just hope next time the clothes will also be worth of excitement.

Totally this!! All this talk of going home hugging your wardrobe or slashing your wrists over this collection is a bit dramatic guys .. And here I am finally interested in the discussion of a collection , after zoning out through most of NY London Milan and Paris ..... The truth is collection doesn't have anything new to say, there's no update , no zing, no frisson of new ideas, and echoing Tim Blanks ... Is that what he is trying to say " because its actually the most resonant message of the whole month

 

[wednesdays child]

This reaction from Miguel almeida is my favourite kind of reaction though and probably the main type that Slimane is spearing!

"This collection is really bad, and I'm really sorry but the people who deffend it don't know what good fashion is" .......
"

 

[Thefrenchy]

I love when people bring "irony" and the whole "at least people are talking about it" to the table to try and justify a bad collection. As if it was completely impossible that it was simply... bad!

ETA: Sorry but I could have passed on the Kate Moss stamp of approval as she looks quite bad if you ask me...

 

[jomarlushka]

^I agree 100% with you! Just because Moss wears is doesn't make it any better...

 

[Deleted member 7575]

now you see the commercial appeal of this?! rich girls wanting to look hipser/grunge/whatever this look is

The problem is that rich girls can already get this look from half a dozen contemporary brands.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

As I said before

....I really do think people like Alison Mosshart, Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Kirsten Dunst, The Richards, The Jaggers, Daisy Lowe, Geldof girls, Frances Bean Cobain, perhaps the Fannings, etc etc are ALL going to want pieces from this collection....

And lo and behold, there's Kate wearing a piece or two. I still think this collection is going to be a success with a certain crowd, and whether or not it's well-liked by people generally may not matter in the end, if it sells, ca-ching $$$

The problem is that rich girls can already get this look from half a dozen contemporary brands.

But they'd rather wear Slimane/Saint Laurent I presume, and if they have the money, the likely will do so.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I love when people bring "irony" and the whole "at least people are talking about it" to the table to try and justify a bad collection. As if it was completely impossible that it was simply... bad!

ETA: Sorry but I could have passed on the Kate Moss stamp of approval as she looks quite bad if you ask me...

she is giving a whole new meaning to 'turn the other cheek' ...

 

[donyan]

Enough of this folks, we are all manipulated by Mr.Slimane and I really don't like it- It looks like this is all done on purpose, like they want to sell this in years to come as this huge scandal in fashion, like when Saint Laurent did sheer tops, the moment when the brand became young again, and left fashion's dinosaurs behind - it's such a cynical exercise in marketing and myth-making, and we're all falling for it.

 

[HeatherAnne]

As I said beforeAnd lo and behold, there's Kate wearing a piece or two. I still think this collection is going to be a success with a certain crowd, and whether or not it's well-liked by people generally may not matter in the end, if it sells, ca-ching $$$

I think you are seriously underestimating their loyal clientele's, that has existed for decades, net worth. I'd bet it's much more than the rich kids they are targeting with this collection, sans the celebrities who don't pay for their clothes anyway. I think they might actually see a significant drop in their profits.

Besides, it can sell all day long, that doesn't mean it doesn't still completely and utterly suck. Shouldn't they prefer a designer who can bring them a better balance of profits and respectability? Are they really willing to trash a reputation that goes back a half-century?

 

[kimair]

Just because Moss wears is doesn't make it any better...

this.

i'm sure people are now thinking "omg kate moss wore it so it must be great...she knows about fashzun" but for the 99.5% of us that aren't kate moss or anja rubik, this outfit just is unrealistic...
you really have to look no further than maria grazia chiuri and pier paolo picciolii at valentino to see what happens when a fashion house changes hands to infuse a bit of youthfulness...
not only is the namesake designer happy, but sales are through the roof, and the brand won the red carpet race this season—all without alienating their core customer...
as heatheranne commented, i would not underestimate the power of the real women out there that actually pay for saint laurent...

i mean isn't the idea to design clothes that celebrities will wear so that the masses will want it (and zara, etc. will knock it off)?
what's she's wearing is already out there...or even worse, like laika said, it looks like something moss herself designed years ago—or could have possibly pulled from her massive closet of vintage...

ETA: in my original post, i said i couldn't think of anyone who had worn saint laurent, and i remembered that lady gaga did...

 

[SabrinaNicole]

Enough of 90s redux.

 

[Label Basher]

ETA: in my original post, i said i couldn't think of anyone who had worn saint laurent, and i remembered that lady gaga did...

And Rosie and Selma. Rosie looks good. Selma does not


zimbo

I think other celebs are wearing the shoes.

 

[birdofparadise]

The collection has a certain integrity and is loyal to the way Yves envisioned his Saint Laurent line as breaking with the traditions, requirements, prerequisites of couture, of fashion as top down. That being said, who cares? Yves is dead and so is this experiment.

What may prove more important is the fact that for the first time since McQueen was wrapping his models in butcher's twine and plastic wrap in London, we're seeing an homage to a truly strong ...girl. Designers ad-lib ad nauseum backstage about their clothes being for a strong woman but these street urchins with daddy's black AmEx in their back pockets stomping down the runway look and feel like the real thing, girls for whom Saint Laurent minus the Yves could mean Absolutely Nothing. Why does that suddenly feel refreshing, to look irrelevant? In the right hands, what a tactic.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Shouldn't they prefer a designer who can bring them a better balance of profits and respectability? Are they really willing to trash a reputation that goes back a half-century?

I am not sure what they're (the owners of the label) willing to do or what they want? They hired Heidi. They must've had some talks?

You have a point about what the regular YSL clientele might've paid but I dont know how the house was performing under the previous designer; hence I honestly don't know about bottomlines in this case.

However, I just think this collection is going to sell to the customer to whom it's marketed, perhaps a niche market, but a distinct group of people will be wearing this around. It'll be interesting to watch/track the progression.

 

[vetements]

I actually don't personally dislike this outing, there are some nice pieces to be fair. I suppose they are there for a reason, whether people in this forum likes it or not, it is creating buzz, and I suppose it would be accurate to say the same at other forums. I have visited a few semi revamped Saint Laurent Paris boutiques, the clothes looked alright, more than what we saw on the runway for his debut attempt, but the leather goods takes up the majority, I am thus deducing these buzz around the world are attracting people all over to walk in, create a cool or 'it' or 'now' factor, and get them to buy (mostly the leather goods). How else do you make profits in a very short time in this economy? Lets face it, there are lots and lots of well made clothes that look sublime, and are appreciated by 'people-in-the-know', but do they necessarily sell well?
Just my two cents worth.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ there are more geese than swans.

perhaps management, being geese themselves, actually prefer designers to match?

 

[fashionista-ta]

The collection has a certain integrity and is loyal to the way Yves envisioned his Saint Laurent line as breaking with the traditions, requirements, prerequisites of couture, of fashion as top down. That being said, who cares? Yves is dead and so is this experiment.

What may prove more important is the fact that for the first time since McQueen was wrapping his models in butcher's twine and plastic wrap in London, we're seeing an homage to a truly strong ...girl. Designers ad-lib ad nauseum backstage about their clothes being for a strong woman but these street urchins with daddy's black AmEx in their back pockets stomping down the runway look and feel like the real thing, girls for whom Saint Laurent minus the Yves could mean Absolutely Nothing. Why does that suddenly feel refreshing, to look irrelevant? In the right hands, what a tactic.

really?? with their hollowed-out cheeks, badly dyed hair, & worse attitudes, many of the girls look like candidates for various in-patient programs. stomping is no indicator of strength.

and black amex? i would love to know if that awful grey duffle was actually made by the atelier. looks more like the handiwork of someone with about my talent level (my training consists of jr high home ec). mostly the girls look genuinely of the street, very few look affluent.

a lot of observers of this collection seem fearful of not understanding what isn't here to understand, so the commentary starts to get really weird. 'ah, i understand what he's really doing ... blah, blah ... few references to house codes ... reference to commercial success and/or cynicism ... reference to others' reactions ... wise nod.' oh yes, emperor, i see your collection ... i absolutely do. i see what you're doing ...

 

[nyc_art_style]

You sometimes think, at the bleary end of a runway season, that fashion would be better off if companies didn’t have labels to sell.

Take Saint Laurent. One of the first things the new designer, Hedi Slimane, did was to remove “Yves” from the label, thereby severing a symbolic connection to the founder, and everything he stood for, like good taste and feminine power. But it was also a test of the label’s enduring appeal.

Who needed the extra syllable when Saint Laurent was virtually lodged in people’s ears, and so much fun to say?

Mr. Slimane has been the talk of Paris Fashion Week, or at least the closing days, largely because he showed a grunge collection of baby-doll dresses and flannel shirts, which I viewed online because I was not invited to the show. Opinion varied widely. Many people said the clothes looked like stuff sold at Topshop or a thrift store, while others defended Mr. Slimane’s approach and identified pieces, like a pink fur chubby, that relate back to Yves’s designs of the late ’60s and early ’70s, when he got ideas — say, for a pea coat — from the street. It’s doubtful that customers will make that connection, but such comments serve to validate what Mr. Slimane has done.

And the controversy is good for Saint Laurent. But mainly it was clear to me how strong the name is. In terms of design, the clothes held considerably less value than a box of Saint Laurent labels. Without the label attached to them, Mr. Slimane’s grunge dresses wouldn’t attract interest — because they’re not special. But a box of labels is worth a million.

- Cathy Horyn, for the New York Times, March 6th 2013

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Preach, Cathy, PREACH!