Saint Laurent F/W 13.14 Paris

[J'ador-DioR]

Unfortunately, this will sell very well....though, you'd look better getting these types of clothes from the high street.

 

[Vitamine W]

First I was upset, then embarrassed, now just angry. This fluke is getting paid for this? Is anybody ever going to take him seriously after this? Come on Cathy H. , burn him at the stakes!

 

[Machinegumm]

"...cool to the core"
Really, now... really? There's nothing even remotely cool about this mess. Just because there are leather jackets and oversized shirts and black boots doesn't mean it's cool. It looks more dated than cool, for people who jumped on the retro-new-vintage-ironic-grunge-bandwagon 8 years too late.

 

[Deleted member 116819]

Saint Laurent Show Produces Conflict, Both the Usual and Bizarre
By ERIC WILSON
----------------------------------------------
Here are some of the things overheard on my way out of the Saint Laurent show Monday night at the Grand Palais, while being trampled by photographers who were trying to get a shot of Catherine Deneuve.

“I suddenly feel very old,” one editor from an American fashion magazine said.

“The real show is tomorrow at 10:30,” another editor said.

“I feel like he’s playing a huge joke on the entire fashion industry,” one more said.

“Don’t underestimate her,” sassed the editor of an indie European fashion magazine, the her being a him.

“It’s haute couture made grunge,” Kirsten Dunst said. “It’s very L.A.”

Suffice it to say, the collection shown Monday night by Hedi Slimane, his second women’s ready-to-wear since taking over the house of Yves Saint Laurent label (which he renamed Saint Laurent after establishing his design studio in Los Angeles, rather than Paris), will be as divisive as his first. The scene was roughly the same, perhaps a bit friendlier and inclusive of more editors, but not all of them. Guests took their seats in a darkened gallery, straining to see the famouspeople. Pierre Bergé came with Betty Catroux, Ms. Dunst with Garrett Hedlund, Jamie Hince with Alison Mosshart and Sky Ferreira. Jessica Chastain, who appears in YSL fragrance ads, arrived in a bright red dress.

Mr. Slimane’s first collection was a tribute to California boho chic, with long flowing dresses, caftans and floppy hats. His second was also rooted in California, this time looking at the aesthetic of grunge, namely Courtney Love baby doll dresses under Kurt Cobain flannel shirts, set to a loud “Tidal Wave 13” by Thee Oh Sees. The dresses were universally short, often black leather minis, worn with fishnet body stockings studded with crystals and Mr. Slimane’s version of a black combat boot, covered with small metal spikes. A whole army of black leather dresses closed the show.

Many editors present did not appear to be in love with the concept, but there were many pieces that looked commercially lucrative at the same time, like fuzzy tartan cardigans, a black tuxedo jacket, an oversize sparkly black cable-knit sweater, a gray duffel coat and another take on the gold sparkly cardigan jacket. The connection of grunge to Mr. Saint Laurent was less clear, though he did once produce a fragrance called Baby Doll, and a pink fur coat in Mr. Slimane’s show seemed a nod to a famous fox coat design of the early 1970s called the “chubby.”

Outside, the photographers were shoving anyone in their path for another shot of Ms. Deneuve, who is not exactly Greta Garbo in this town. They surrounded a black sedan, which Ms. Deneuve was trying to enter, but it was apparently not her car. Relax, people. It’s not like she won’t be at the next show. You’ll get your shot.

source: runway.blogs.nytimes.com

Eric Wilson with the reactions about the show, and it looks promising

The quote of the "another editor said" is priceless, I tought the same

Kirsten Dunst ......................................................... what was that?!?!? "Couture made Grunge"

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

I can't like or defend your work anymore hedi,I just cant. This looks awful, like I'm really pit off by it. I actually liked his first womanswear collection and dare I say it, his last menswear collection. But somewhere along the way of taking the inspiration for that collection and applying it to woman, he lost me. I've only seen what's been posted on heee but that's enough for me. The little floral dresses are kinda cute but like everyone elae is saying, when you realize they're being made by the house of yves saint laurent, it doesn't feel right to like them anymore

 

[Les_Sucettes]

It's not just that this is wrong for YSL, is that this are bad clothes in general.
Those flowery dresses are the worst thing I've seen in the catwalk in ages. Someone mentioned Camden Town and i couldn't have said it better. It's actually an insult for Topshop or H&M, or Zara to be compared with this, even the high street moved on.

 

[vandekamp]

“It’s haute couture made grunge,” Kirsten Dunst said.

No......................

 

[KookyQuirk]

Seriously when will these so-called fashion critics start calling a spade a spade? This collection is diabolical. Topshop Unique is WAY better than this. If I really want a so-young-it-hurts look, I'll walk straight into Topshop or H&M, without bleeding my wallet dry!

 

[ad31214]

This looks like clothes I could purchase at Urban Outfitters/Topshop, but one thousand times the cost.

 

[KookyQuirk]

This looks like clothes I could purchase at Urban Outfitters/Topshop, but one thousand times the cost.

I've seen better in Primark. This collection is a result of hours spent rummaging painstakingly through charity shop bins.

 

[xPedro]

Hahahahahahahahaha I'm laughing. Guys, this cannot be the real show, let's just wait, Hedi is playing a joke on us, he's just wanting to be funny, let's wait

 

[xoxoadore]

I didn't know Urban Outfitters was showing in Paris

 

[kanita]

Unfortunately, this will sell very well....though, you'd look better getting these types of clothes from the high street.

I find that hard to believe but I guess only time will tell.

(Don't this highly overpriced designer garbage that sells so well make you slightly angry at the rich folks that buy this stuff while you would have made so much better choices if you had their resources and money..? )

They're not loving it over at Tumblr...some quotes:

"raise your hand if you have ever felt personally victimized by Hedi Slimane"

"Hedi’s calendar says it’s 2013 but his heart is telling him it’s 2003"

 

[Jacque Marcel]

Maybe it's his plan to hype up SL as the must see show of the season? Or maybe lower expectations for next season? Such as disappointment, Alber should head the house.

 

[anlabe32]

They're not loving it over at Tumblr...some quotes:

"raise your hand if you have ever felt personally victimized by Hedi Slimane"

"Hedi’s calendar says it’s 2013 but his heart is telling him it’s 2003"

Ouch, and that when tumblr seems to be his main target.

 

[KookyQuirk]

I didn't know Urban Outfitters was showing in Paris

They'll have to at this rate...

 

[en lice]

Such a pity. So nihilist. I frankly wouldn't be surprised if this show is his way to tell us he will/wants to kill himself

 

[Izreal]

doc martens are doc martens, i really see no use re-making an established/iconic (for better or worse) shoe. but as you've said, people will still buy it cause it'll have SLP written/sewn on them

i'm pretty sure i already explained this on a previous discussion on the subject but anyways here it goes again: it's a hedi trademark to take iconic "working class" items such as converse sneakers or indeed doc martens and revisit them in a streamlined luxury version. it's the ultimate understated sophistication, the exact opposite of buying something because the logo is on it...


now about the collection... it's really not all that bad... light years away from the mess at balmain.. it's basically 90's grunge theme which isn't too surprising of a come back given it was 20 years ago.. i will concede the short leather skirts and fishnet stockings is and is what's throwing off otherwise very wearable looks.. there is a strong bohemian punk attitude, this is definitely not for the previous YSL clientele.. but it's the logical continuation of hedi's work.. i think the biggest mistake was perhaps not giving him his own line as people just can't seem to accept these vibes for YSL... but again i've seen crazier wtf moments in runway fashion... if you get past the shock and horror of those leather skirts and crack wh*re stockings, you might find there are a few noteworthy items here and there..

 

[en lice]

And, by the way, considering what retailers bought from the S/S 2013 collection, I'm 99% sure this is about to be a huge financial mess

 

[helmut.newton]

Another review:

Saint Laurent's Hedi Slimane faces critics in Paris

Designer Hedi Slimane on Monday unveiled his keenly anticipated second women's collection for Saint Laurent after a debut that ruffled feathers, divided the fashion world and apparently exposed a debate about who was first to show the skinny suit.

Famed for his pencil-thin skinny tailoring, Slimane is credited with revolutionising menswear during his stint at Dior from 2000 to 2007.

Monday's show at Paris's Grand Palais, which his supporters hope will allow him to see off his critics, predominantly featured short hemlines and hotpants worn with sheer black tights and flat boots.

Looks at the show, on day seven of the nine-day Paris fashion week, included a sky blue silk dress covered in diagonal ruffles worn with an oversized green and black check jacket and a print dress with puff sleeves, white collar and front bow.

Coats included a grey duffle and black leather trench.

A pair of tiny hotpants, meanwhile, came teamed with a floral print blouse and pale pink fur jacket.

Slimane's androgynous, skinny look while with Dior achieved huge success and was copied by mass-market designers worldwide. It even spread to the rock world.

Stars Mick Jagger and Pete Doherty went on stage in Dior Homme, and even legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld shed 45 kilos (99 pounds) to be able to slide into a Slimane suit.

But Slimane's October 2012 womenswear debut for Saint Laurent cannot be said to have gone smoothly.

From the start, journalists complained of high-handed treatment from public relations staff who informed them that Slimane would break with tradition and not take any questions backstage.

Then there was mystification at name changes that left them unsure whether to refer to Saint Laurent Paris, Saint Laurent or Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane.

On the night, many journalists were allowed only standing room at the back, leaving them unable to see the clothes.

Next came the lukewarm reviews from some of the industry's most influential fashion editors.

Although many buyers and retailers expressed delight at the collection, trade journal Women's Wear Daily called it "interesting to the point of odd" while Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, said it was "no triumph" and urged him to be more dynamic.

And New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn, who was banned from the show following remarks made years earlier, reviewed it on the basis of digital images, concluding that it "lacked a new fashion spirit".

In an illustration of how far offtrack media relations had strayed, Laura Craik, fashion editor of The Times of London wrote an open letter to Slimane which she ended with a plea not to be banned from the next show.

"…because I really want to see it. We all do. We like you, even though you treat us like a b*tch," she wrote.

A blog and Twitter spat between Slimane and Horyn followed in which she revealed the reason she had not been invited to the show.

Slimane, she said, had taken exception to a 2004 article in which she wrote that "without Mr Simons' template of slim tailoring and street casting there would not have been a Hedi Slimane -- just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang".

Simons, like Slimane, is in the first year of a new job -- in Simons' case with Christian Dior.

Slimane responded by calling Horyn a "schoolyard bully" and "a bit of a stand-up comedian".

He added: "As far as I'm concerned, she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent but might get a 2-for-1 at Dior" in a reference to her positive reviews of Simons' work.

It all prompted Paul Deneve, the president and CEO of Saint Laurent Paris, to write a letter to Women's Wear Daily accusing it of inaccurately summarising reaction as "comparatively tepid".

And he complained about a subsequent article entitled "Paris Match" that he said had pitted Slimane against Simons, reducing his arrival at the company to a "banal rivalry".

Paris fashion week is due to wrap up on Wednesday.

Source: globalpost.com/