Saint Laurent F/W 13.14 Paris

[beaverhausen]

I find saying everyone who doesn't like this collection just "doesn't get it" must be under Pilati's spell and doesn't know or understand about Yves Saint Laurent's history is extremely condescending and offensive.

 

[AlbertNoir]

There's nothing gunge about this. I'm sick of critics using the word "grunge" as a synonym for $hit.
[Eyes roll out of head].

Grunge could be cool and it's not always synonym for a bad styling, but he clearly focus this kind of style on the collection..in a banal and cheap (not only in terms of materials but also as concept) way it's obvious.
I'm sure his intent was a dictomic turn from the Spring 2013 collection (marked by some revisited cult ideas of Yves), but the result is too banal, boring and cheap for a relevant (in fashion history) maison like YVES SAINT LAURENT.

 

[Izreal]

fwiw i'm not referring to everyone.. only certain commentators who know who they are.. i've been in these threads since day 1 and i can see the usual suspects and their agenda... they were yelling hedi ruined YSL simply when he changed the name, a name change that actually reverts to the original RTW label....others i feel are jumping on the hate bandwagon. all i'm doing is pointing out the irony in certain statements and viewpoints... i'm not saying anybody has to like this, i'm not even a hedi superfan tbh.. i have come out empty handed on my 2 visits at SLP boutiques.. but as a Dior Homme customer i think i understand where he's coming from... by the way the funny thing to me is that DH runway shows got exactly the same reactions back in the day in this very forum.. go re-read the threads you'll see, people were complaining about the same thing: "looks like misshapes kids" "models too young/androgynous/druggy" " goodwill / topshop" etc etc.. yet when he retired everybody praised him as a genius... deja vu i'm telling you...

 

[fashionista-ta]

No, I can only speak for myself but I was not under a Pilati spell. And furthermore I was genuinely excited about Hedi's return to design.
I really liked what he did at Dior Homme as it felt current and representative of a movement that was happening at that time.
However , the last two collections he has produced for St Laurent are quite simply lazy. For FW13 He is referencing back to looks that trickled down to the high street 2-3 years ago. He is not updating this look or giving it any more relevance than it had then.
The reason there is such a reaction to this is simply because people who work in this industry do not like having their intelligence insulted and their time wasted.
I'm bored. I don't even want to read another review, look at another picture or even read this thread anymore. That's the problem.

my theory is it could be a genuine lack of talent.

 

[beaverhausen]

Dare I say Hedi isn't even a designer, but a stylist.

 

[JuiceMajor]

The critic can hate it as much as they want, but if PPR likes what he has achieved, things are not going to change. Just like Gucci.

Any review from Cathy or Suzy yet?

 

[beaverhausen]

Eric Wilson did the review, Cathy didn't unfortunately.. I was looking forward to reading what she has to say.

 

[Marc10]

my theory is it could be a genuine lack of talent.

Sorry but to say Hedi is not a talented designer is just stupid. He has 3 incredible collections for every bad one he makes.

 

[GERGIN]

I quite agree with you - this is a balanced and honest view and I found I had the same mixed reaction.

----------------------------------------------------

I really do think people like Alison Mosshart, Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Kirsten Dunst, The Richards, The Jaggers, Daisy Lowe, Geldof girls, Frances Bean Cobain, perhaps the Fannings, etc etc are ALL going to want pieces from this collection; it is going to sell, I suspect.

So a bunch of B, C, & D-listers are interested in clothing that they probably already have in their wardrobe? Would'nt these people get discounts or free pieces from the runway just to endourse anyways? Not much profit going into YSL's pockets for that, that's for darn sure.

Hedi is simply too little, too late on his end...perhaps being out of the fashion design scene for 6-7 years was not his best choice, however thanks to his exceedingly high reputation in this industry, once the position was offered, he took it.

I'm sure i'm repeating what other have people have said here, and other topics relating to Hedi, but there is nothing dreamy, desireable, luxurious, modern or cool about what he has presented to us for F/W 13.14. It's utter garbage, pure disgusting, smelly garbage that even the people who were at the presentation were hesitant to run away from, you can try to sugarcoat Hedi's presentation, but the majority has spoken...

 

[chanelh]

oh lord, this is really bad... hard to believe it's for YSL, such a low-level style

 

[Spike413]

Looking at this collection there are two distinct thoughts that come to mind...

The first is that I'm shocked and slightly embarrassed that I was so excited about the prospect of Slimane taking over YSL.

The second is disbelief at the fact that both Stefano Pilati AND Tom Ford were raked over the coals in some way or another for their contributions to the house, all of which were more relevant and more respectful than this could ever hope to be.

Ironic that Marc Jacobs, who is always accused of ripping off somebody without fail, should be ripped off by someone whom most would've considered a better technical designer. At least when he brought grunge to the runway it was a) still fairly new and radical, therefore more exciting and b) truly subversive at the time. This....is half-***ed styling masquerading as French fashion.

 

[blackcherrified]

If I remember well the S/S collection was going to hit stores late February, so obviously we don't know yet if his previous collection was a huge commercial success.

Let's wait for the sale season in May and we will know whether the collection do well or not.

W Magazine Beauty Director, Jane Larkworthy on her twitter
twitter.com/WmagJane

That is what I am doing now... Oh my dear YSL.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Sorry but to say Hedi is not a talented designer is just stupid. He has 3 incredible collections for every bad one he makes.

well you're certanly not in fashion critic mode

going into it myself, perhaps he has spun out his talent as far as it will go, which is not as far as womenswear.

 

[LUXXX]

I think his men's collections have been a bit better for Saint Laurent, but I did like that "chubby" pink fur coat from this collection.

Any review from Cathy or Suzy yet?

I read on NY Mag that cathy won't be reviewing his collection... Eric Wilson did instead, and it wasn't much of a review, just a bunch of anonymous thoughts from editors and buyers.

 

[ogepma]

well as i just mentioned.. most of the commentators here are under the pilati spell.. they've jumped on any occasion to bash hedi since he was appointed and made news of the name change... nothing he will ever do will make them happy... even worst they believe YSL started with Pilati... they seem unaware YSL started something revolutionary called "Saint Laurent: Rive Gauche" the first RTW label by a designer which had strong pop art sensibilities and focused on rebellious youth and clothed the new young "it girls" when aging divas were still the mass focus... sexuality, androginity, independence, decadence.. that was the lifestyle.. may i remind some of you that catherine deneuve was revealed in belle du jour.. where she plays a young housewife that decides to become a prostitute... and since a picture says more then words, here is on of betty (yves lifelong muse whom he called his "twin sister") have a look at SS13 and tell me you don't see the connection:

I find this post highly offensive and borderline ridiculous. Yes, I agree, personally, I am still under a Pilati spell because what he did was a million times more relevant than this and more respectful to "Yves Saint Laurent's" legacy. We are all aware YSL was the first haute couture designer to do pret a porter. We are aware that he put women in pant suits and tuxedos, was anti-bourgeoisie at the start of his career and hence decided to look to the lower class to get inspiration. We are also aware of his love for pop-culture and the arts (Mondrian and Piccaso dresses come to mind).And yes, he caused so much controversy in the 70's by showing a collection inspired by prostitutes and underground and putting sheer tops on the catwalk. Difference is, he showed it with elegance and class and that's why he is regarded with revolutionising fashion in his heydays. As the popular saying goes, Chanel gave women freedom, YSL empowered them. When you look at these clothes, do you honestly see these women (girls) being empowered?

At the same time, many of these things that inspired Saint Laurent in the 60s and 70s, all the youth movements, are part of mainstream fashion now. Back then, it was almost a taboo for a woman to be in pants. Now, things are different. I have no problem with getting inspiration from anywhere. Be it grunge or from the moon, however, when you get inspired by something, that is not an automatic cue for you to copy and be literal. What Hedi presented was a disaster and that is a fact. At least from a critical point of view. There was no design. It was all styled vintage looks that anyone can get at Camden Market. From the duffle coats to the trench coats and baby doll dresses, all were too literal and basic that I doubt there were any sketches to start with.

So yes, it is really annoying to see YSL's legacy being tarnished like this. Pilati was not perfect but he was able to create a dialogue with YSL's codes. He always made the clothes elegant albeit sometimes they seemed strange. His designs were always intellectual enough to entice me at least, someone who is an engineer and should have no business with fashion. YSL famously said back during Tom Ford's era "in 13 minutes on the runway, you have destroyed 40 years of my career". I don't expect him, if he were still alive, to be fully pleased by what anyone does with his name (lets face it, towards the end of his career, he became irrelevant because he was stuck in the past; this is were is see Mr Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane being similar) but by just looking at Tom Ford's YSL, especially towards the end of his time there, you can definitely see that respect. Do you think he will spew any amount of praise towards this? I say no, he will definitely have been very upset by this.

At the end of the day, I am still hooked with Pilati's work because it was a better representation of the house's codes for the 21st century. At the same time, I am still hooked with what Nicolas Ghesquiere did at Balenciaga but Alexander Wang put up an incredible show and now I am a fan (I am still not a fan of his label though). So when many of these so called, Pilati lovers, come here and be part of a band wagon, it's not just hate for Hedi that drives it, but utter disappointment at the current state of the house and what it is pretentiously trying to represent now.

 

[jmrmartinho]

^Thank you for putting in words exacly what I was thinking.

 

[beaverhausen]

^^ Amen!

Exactly the point I was trying to make earlier. .
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[kanita]

mollywoodmol.tumblr.com

 

[anlabe32]

I read on NY Mag that cathy won't be reviewing his collection... Eric Wilson did instead, and it wasn't much of a review, just a bunch of anonymous thoughts from editors and buyers.

Ugh, pity. I wanted to read her ripping this collection apart.

 

[Izreal]

^ this is exactly what i'm talking about.. I stand by my words, it feels like many here take an almost perverse pleasure in bashing the one they feel responsible for ruining "their" label as if they had any kind of entitlement to begin with.. i find this quite egocentric.. and simply suggest they move on.. i have a quite harsh opinion on what Pilati did at YSL, well you didn't find me trolling the forums during that era… or wearing campaign t-shirts… however some really sound like they are out for blood, trepidating for that assassin critic, waiting for the slightest error.. and expressing disappointment or even offense for a favorable opinion.. it's unhealthy i just don't understand it.. get over it, Pilati/YSL gone, Hedi/SLP in… hate his style, model choice, music, aesthetic, influences..overall direction… that's fine but don't call him a talentless amateur because it doesn't appeal to you or that you don't understand it.. and by that i'm referring to the number one argument the critics focus their diatribe on: that the clothing feels cheap/readily available at topshop or goodwill. take a look at the detail shots, the quality and fabrics is outstanding, the tailoring impeccable for the most part. so he takes iconic items and revisits them, i quite enjoy that, why always reinvent the wheel? as for the grunge theme, ok some find it dirty/trashy/cliche.. but that's Hedi's obsession with the different phases of rock'n'roll from rockabilly, to punk, indie, pop… so this season it's grunge… you can be sure next will be something closely related.. in the end he's just doing his thing, i myself don't always agree/praise his choices but i respect his right to do so as long as he's appointed he is the man in charge for better or for worst..