Saint Laurent F/W 13.14 Paris

[Deleted member 7575]

i think he's still trying to work out a clear direction, it seems to me this last collection was a bit of a brouha inspired by the SS71 show, and i have a feeling he will counter-act on his next show..

I admire your optimism even if I think what Slimane has designed so far doesn't deserve it. I hope the man doesn't let you down.

I had a look at the pre-order selection on Barney's website. And like many of you have already mentioned they are still offering a substantial amount of accessories developed under the previous creative management. They are not ready to throw everything out for Hedi's new vision, they're testing it first. Barney's is offering their customers both the new and the old Saint Laurent and they'll be able to see very quickly who the new Saint Laurent customer is, how she shops, and what her tastes are. For Saint Laurent this is more than ideal because not only do they have neutral, identical conditions to test the shoes with but they will also be able to judge against other brands on the floor. Saint Laurent, like most "fashion" houses these days are accessory brands and that will be the most important and crucial victory for Slimane if he is indeed going to continue at Saint Laurent. And maybe good selling of the shoes and bags will give him some freedom to rethink the ready-to-wear.

Comebacks are tricky, when Chanel came back amid the towering presence of Dior and Balenciaga in the 50's, after 8 years in exile as a known Nazi collaborator (there's some reality for you!), she was lampooned by the press for looking out of date and behind the times. But, by the time the clean modernism of the 60's came a long her new suit had become the uniform of those in-the-know and the house was back on top. Could this be the case with Hedi? All signs point to no. But, like the YSL prostitute collection, I am offering up this historical anecdote as fodder for the true believers.

 

[tricotineacetat]

yes but jil sander had complete creative control, she started her own label (even if we all know of the fallouts with prada, the raf simons era etc) raf is actually a better example as he is in a similar position in a synonymous house.. his approach at dior is a lot safer so far, but it also leaves me incredibly empty (as kva at dh incidentally).. getting back to slimane at ysl, i think it's a bit early to pass final judgement.. i think he's still trying to work out a clear direction, it seems to me this last collection was a bit of a brouha inspired by the SS71 show, and i have a feeling he will counter-act on his next show..

Pardon me, but wasn't it Hedi Slimane who is known for his excessive control demand over the brands he works for? I am highly doubting that any artistic decision he is taking right at the moment is fueled by anything but his aesthetic convictions - It's not that the excessive accessorisation, grunge styling etc. hadn't already started at Dior and it's sadly continuing through here in a headache-worthy manner that distract from separate pieces that still have that same sleek sophistication people have appreciated him for. Plus, I fail to see how designing clothes that can be desired by a diversity of clients and age demographies would prove less commercial than for little babydoll dresses with peter pan collars...

 

[Izreal]

i think it's a little foolish to think that there aren't any corporate objectives at stake here.. surely hedi gets a lot of freedom but there is an overall strategy planned here, basically taking the model of what he did at dior homme by revamping the house from head to toe to access a younger edgier clientele. it isn't really comparable to starting your own line, there are certain codes being followed here and a strategic objective.. as for jill sander, raf, ann d, yohji etc.. as minimalistic as they strive to be, they all make clothing for a specific clientele and are far from universal outside the basics one might find… also as brilliant and influential as they are, they do not have the legacy and therefore dilemmas of a house such as YSL..

I admire your optimism even if I think what Slimane has designed so far doesn't deserve it. I hope the man doesn't let you down.

i guess you may call it wishful thinking but my reasoning behind this is based on hedi's tenure at DH... the last time he did such a hipster fest of controversy was SS06, he swiftly pulled a 180 in his following FW06 which was purely sartorial (and claimed as a return to form with a strong YSL sensibility), I'm expecting something similar but i'm not holding my breath either tbh..

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I think we can all agree the main objective for any decision any corporation makes, including it's choice for creative management and the freedom they are allowed, is to make money.

And considering the unprecedented accommodations PPR has given Hedi, it can probably be agreed that Hedi knows his job is to deliver a look, merchandise, and marketing that merchandising, sales, and product development teams can turn into large profit margins and significant quarterly growth.

 

[rob9]

there are going to be people who openly bash this collection, and then when it hit stores they buy it. I have no doubt this collection will sell, all Hedi needs is a few celebrities to wear it and be photographed in it. I don't think he is going anywhere as much as a lot of wish. A girl in my class who interns at SL says everyone there loves the collection so either everyone is lying to themselves or this is what's to permanently come for the house.

agree!

hahaha, i'm very amused. in the nineties a was a very young photography assistant
and pretty much impressed by jürgen teller and his heroine chic.
maybe this is - after all the critique of capitalism, retro, retro and retro chic, superchic, super decadent,
retro chic and retro chic - the turning point for a new era. i hope so.

 

[lowfive1715]

looks like they've already done so:
*Please don't quote pictures*
purseblog.com

If Jennifer Lawrence was carrying this then I would agree. Unfortunately, Paltrow is just irrelevant as these designs.

 

[GERGIN]

^
Haha, uhm...I don't think so...

 

[Label Basher]

If Jennifer Lawrence was carrying this then I would agree. Unfortunately, Paltrow is just irrelevant as these designs.

The bag was made by Hedi for Gwyneth. This isn't the first time she has been given the new "it" bag before everyone else. She is one of the most papped celebs and it worked. Those pics were on all the blogs talking about the bag. It created the buzz they wanted. Hedi and his team know what they are doing with it comes to PR.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ if you say so ... not questioning the choice of GP, but that PR team ...

 

[iluvjeisa]

Well, it looks like she got what she deserves....

The ad looks wonderful, though.

 

[GERGIN]

This topic is as almost talked about as if a newcomer were to open a Prada or Miu Miu show in the Femmes thread.

 

[Deleted member 116819]

The video I was waiting for...Catherine Deneuve was running soo fast to her car, because she didn't wanted to say anything bad/obvious...
Lou Dillon ............. Pierre Bergé ................ why?!?!!?
Pierre said Hedi is perfect for the brand....he really wants to believe that

 

[Thefrenchy]

^ Catherine had no time for this mess

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

the woman at Elle seemed so appalled by this

 

[iluvjeisa]

Yeah, Catherine Deneuve looks shell shocked...

As four Lou Dillon's comments....I'd love to have whatever she's having.

That said, this looks a bit better in high res, I have to say. A few pieces are worth while. Hopefully the next collection will build on that...and hopefully most of the ghastly things here are just part of the demolition.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Am I blind? Where is Catherine in that video?

 

[iluvjeisa]

Am I blind? Where is Catherine in that video?

2.38-2.41

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^Hahaha thank you! Don't know how I missed that.

She certainly looked and sounded horrified.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

Yeah, Catherine Deneuve looks shell shocked...

As four Lou Dillon's comments....I'd love to have whatever she's having.

That said, this looks a bit better in high res, I have to say. A few pieces are worth while. Hopefully the next collection will build on that...and hopefully most of the ghastly things here are just part of the demolition.

completely agree with this the outerwear and embellished pieces look very well made

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Catherine had no time for this mess

hilarious we all know what 'interesting' means and betty wasn't even talking remotely about this collection, she was talking about what's at retail.